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Mwdeck1983

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Oct 16, 2015
Messages
3
Hey all,

I am not new to the world of aquatics, but I am new to the concept of using an overflow/sump filtration system.

I recently upgraded to a 56 gallon, corner, bow front glass aquarium, with a built-in, internal, corner overflow with pre-drilled holes and plumbing for the standpipe and return fed through the bottom of the tank, inside the overflow. I can take detailed pictures if it helps clarify.

My question, we'll two parts; a) where can I find some good education on sump/ wet-dry filtration, and b) can I use my existing canister filter by incorporating it into the existing plumbing? What modifications will I need to make? It is a freshwater setup and for a living room. I don't have anything too complicated in this tank. I'd love to be able to hook my canister up to it and call it a day. The guy at the aquarium shop where I purchased it said it was possible.

From the forums I've read, people have mixed opinions about it. Although I have yet to find a forum that discusses my EXACT setup.

Hoping anyone can provide some clarity or direct me where to go. As I said, I am new to this realm and would love to become educated about it.

Thank you!
 
First of, welcome to AA!
Secondly, it should work provided the flow rate from the overflow matches the suction or intake of the canister filter. If it does not (for instance if the water level drops), then there is a chance that the canister will suck in air. Perhaps if you could provide pics and more details that might help.
You could always add a sump to your setup and use the canister as a return pump to the DT (display tank). Not only do they add volume to your system, they offer a place to add filtration and hide equipment.
Google is a great resource for sumps/overflow design and function. YouTube offers informational videos on the topics as well.


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Thanks for the reply! I've included a few photos. Hope that helps. Sounds like I need to do a dry run of my filter hooked up to everything to test the flow. Probably my best bet. I'm guessing I just have to match up the plumbing?

img_3294756_0_573be0e18e0964ba69a503697925a4db.jpg


img_3294756_1_2419ed817c226fc382b268bffa5e3422.jpg


img_3294756_2_c7f034df6733bb971dd37cfffc22c69d.jpg
 
You would need a reducer to match the drain with the intake of the filter.
In the third pic it appears that there are slots at the bottom of the corner drain? Hopefully the available water for the filter will not be so dependent on water level.
A good cleaning will help. Lots of buildup in there.


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IMO the canister will not work or work well hooked up to the overflow.
When the water evaporates it will not go into the skimmer and the canister will not work....
The canister could used outside the skimmer without issue,
Just throw a 20g under the tank drop the skimmer outlet hose in it ans add a return pump.
Sump is done(well it is running).
You could really run the canister off the sump.
 
Sounds like the best option is to just utilize a sump? I've been researching them a bit and it seems like building one out of the 20 gal tank is not outside my skill level.

A revised question would be this - instead of a pump, can I use the canister filter as extra filtration in the last chamber of the sump to create the flow back to the tank?

I also believe the slits in the overflow are at the top and bottom. Im waiting for the weather to warm a bit and im going to fill the tank up with a hose and see how it behaves - as well as give it a good cleaning lol.

Lastly, does anyone know what the device in picture 2 is? It appears to fit into the drain line that goes to the sump. it looks like a float valve of some sort.

Any other advice or recommendations are GREATLY appreciated!

Matt
 
You sump can be as simple as an empty tank. It still gives you a place to place the heater. Baffles and compartments will make it more functional/useful.
You can use the canister as a return pump. Not sure how easy it will be to prime the canister setup like that. Just be sure to include an anti-siphon hole above the water line where the water return is. This will draw in air when the canister power is off and prevent water from siphoning out of the tank and into the sump (and possibly flooding it).
That device appears fit in the drain hole and when the water level is down it "caps" the drain. And then opens as water fills up the slotted drain area. Not sure what it is used for. Noise control?


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There is a second wall behind the slits in your overflow so water entering the bottom still has to "overflow" at the top.
Fresh is correct on the "doo hicky" in pic 2 as is evident by the water line in overflow.
It is like a bobber IMO.
I have never seen one.
You tank is a marineland I believe.
Look up "durso overflow" and build one instead of the 'bobber'. They are the quietest by far for overflows.
I am NOT a canister guy ,BUT every one who use one says they are 1/2 flow when packed with media...
That is at ZERO head!!!
It will work as a reactor/polisher running from sump back into sump ,but will be nothing beside trouble and way under powered to work as your return IMO!!
 
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