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Old 10-24-2012, 12:01 PM   #11
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Ohhhh ok I gotcha. So let me ask this.. If the power goes out and the pump stops, what stops the water from draining into the sump? Or is this where you factor in enough room in the sump to accommodate this water?
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:03 PM   #12
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Just like what you said. Your sump should have enough room in it to hold all the water from your plumbing and from the lowest point in your DT which will either be your lowest overflow or the lowest return (since the return will create a back siphon)
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:09 PM   #13
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Gotcha! Thanks dude... I'm gonna come up with a plumbing schematic tonight, mind taggin along on this thread when I post?
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:11 PM   #14
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I'm already here
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:13 PM   #15
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True lol! So can I just get normal PVC? And what kind of cement/glue?
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:14 PM   #16
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Normal pvc and normal glue just make sure you let it cure and rinse it out.
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:17 PM   #17
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K thx! Project time...
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:22 PM   #18
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What thickness acrylic should I get for the baffles of a 30 gallon sump?
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Old 10-25-2012, 01:10 PM   #19
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I used 1/4" which should be good for pretty much any standard sized tank conversion. The baffles have pressure on both sides by the water so it cancels itself out unlike building a tank where one side has a ton of pressure while the other side none.
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Old 10-25-2012, 01:17 PM   #20
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Good call on that... And 1/4" is still thin enough where I can just score it with a utility knife and snap it?
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