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Old 10-25-2012, 01:24 PM   #21
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Ya but make sure you do a couple extra passes on it.
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Old 10-25-2012, 01:45 PM   #22
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Will do! Any good ideas on sump layouts? 3 chamber, 4 chamber, 2 chamber lol?? I was thinking about doing a 3 chamber, but needed to get a couple ideas for how to set it up. I was thinking about putting the skimmer in chamber 1, which is the chamber the water will enter the sump from the DT, and go through a filter sock, then a fuge in chamber 2, and a return pump in chamber 3... Or should I switch the skimmer and fuge around?
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Old 10-25-2012, 01:52 PM   #23
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I built the same setup you just described and very happy with it.
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:30 AM   #24
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I need some clarification here with overflows and sumps and gph's... Ok so say a 1" hole will dump 800 gph's into the sump. I want a low flow sump due to the fuge, say 300 gph. So with a 1/2" inch return and a 300 gph pump, where does the difference in the 800 gph into the sump vs 300 gph being returned? Will the sump overflow, or because it is gravity fed, will the water simply just not drain from the DT into the sump as fast, etc...? I can't wrap my brain around how this works 8-( Maybe someone can explain it to me??
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:41 PM   #25
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Think of it this way.. its called an "overflow" for a good reason. As your pump dumps water into the tank it raises the water level. Once it gets high enough it flows overtop the overflow and drains. With gravity fed overflows you don't have to worry about under powered returns, that's just a big deal if your running a HOB.
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:44 PM   #26
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Ahhhhh ok... But a potential issue would be a return pump that has more GPH than the overflow going into the sump can handle, and would overflow the DT right? I think it's starting to make sense...
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:47 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benamayer
Ahhhhh ok... But a potential issue would be a return pump that has more GPH than the overflow going into the sump can handle, and would overflow the DT right? I think it's starting to make sense...
Correct. This is why I HIGHLY reccomend drilled tanks.. eliminates a whole issue that many people worry about daily lol. Hell even sniperhank is having issues with his HOB right now. Almost flooded his house : /
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:51 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrc8858

Correct. This is why I HIGHLY reccomend drilled tanks.. eliminates a whole issue that many people worry about daily lol. Hell even sniperhank is having issues with his HOB right now. Almost flooded his house : /
Yea I know 8-( I was reading that thread earlier. Whelp, ce la vis! Anyways I can't wait for my tank to be ready... I gotta pick up the PCV this weekend and still need to build my sump... Are there any diagrams that you know of that you could post? I need details like how high to build the baffles, etc...
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:54 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benamayer

Yea I know 8-( I was reading that thread earlier. Whelp, ce la vis! Anyways I can't wait for my tank to be ready... I gotta pick up the PCV this weekend and still need to build my sump... Are there any diagrams that you know of that you could post? I need details like how high to build the baffles, etc...
You'll want to base the baffles off of how high your skimmer needs first and foremost. Then you'll need to figure out the total water being held in the plumbing and a little from the DT since when you turn your return off (for maintenance or feeding) the water will drain and back siphon the overflow/return nozzles lowest point. For examply there is about 5-7 gallons of empty space in my 20 long sump to allow room for the back siphon.
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:20 PM   #30
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Say this is my design... Not to scale lol..

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Will the back siphon water rise above the baffles that will be 8"? I don't want water rising above the max line on the skimmer...
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