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Old 10-18-2014, 01:55 AM   #31
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Meaning they won't shut off when they come to temperature?
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All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given to us. –Gandalf- 20g high community tank, 5g w red male betta, 10g w crowntail blue male betta & 4 Amano shrimp.
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:56 AM   #32
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Meaning they won't shut off when they come to temperature?
Yep, so if your heater is capable of heating the tank to 100 degrees it does.

One way to solve that problem is with a heater controller, another by sizing your heater small enough that it cannot get that hot as you have done.
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:59 AM   #33
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Heater Question

Yikes!

We used the 100w in the 2g w no issues (had no other heater and our betta needed heat) then we got the 50w for it. Then the 50w was used in the 5g tank.

The 100w is in the 10g now. We tried cranking it when cycling and that's how we found out it wouldn't go above 82.

I think we'll be ok. I would hate to think of boiling fish alive accidentally though
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Old 10-18-2014, 02:02 AM   #34
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How cold is the room there? A 100w heater in a 10g tank should be able to heat quite bit. I typically use 50w heaters in my 10g tanks.
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:35 AM   #35
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Summertime 70-82

Wintertime 63-68

Other times of year, in between those of course.
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:58 PM   #36
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Summertime 70-82

Wintertime 63-68

Other times of year, in between those of course.
In a 10g tank, a 100w heater should be able to move the temp about 17-18F above the ambient room temperature. So that would mean, in the height of summer it should be able to bring your tank to nearly 100F
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Old 10-19-2014, 11:27 PM   #37
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I would buy underpowered heaters before worrying about a controller. By being underpowered they are not capable of overheating, at least not to lethal levels. Better yet is to take that underpowered wattage and cut that in half into two separate heaters. For example, instead of putting 100 watts on a 20 or 29, put 50, and even then split it in to two 25 watt heaters. A 25 watt heater is going to have a very tough time killing anything in a 20 gallon.

FYI to everyone, all heaters work fine. That isn't the issue. The issue is IF they ever fail then you will have a dead tank if you have heaters of the usual power.
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Old 10-19-2014, 11:37 PM   #38
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I would buy underpowered heaters before worrying about a controller. By being underpowered they are not capable of overheating, at least not to lethal levels. Better yet is to take that underpowered wattage and cut that in half into two separate heaters. For example, instead of putting 100 watts on a 20 or 29, put 50, and even then split it in to two 25 watt heaters. A 25 watt heater is going to have a very tough time killing anything in a 20 gallon.

FYI to everyone, all heaters work fine. That isn't the issue. The issue is IF they ever fail then you will have a dead tank if you have heaters of the usual power.
The underpowered heaters theory only works if your room is close to a constant temperature.

If, like dragon14 above, your ambient room temperature fluctuates broadly than a heater controller is a better solution as you will have a heater that is capable of baking your fish for at least part of the year.
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Old 10-19-2014, 11:50 PM   #39
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What's always concerned me about the underpowered heater theory is the strain of the workload leading to failure.

As was mentioned, the power of the heater has everything to do with the difference between the air temp and the desired water temp.
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:03 AM   #40
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What's always concerned me about the underpowered heater theory is the strain of the workload leading to failure.
This is where the problem lies. The ideal heater would never shut off. The constant on and off cycling is what usually causes heater failure. Naturally, this is more likely to happen if the heater is more powerful than necessary.
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