Hob filters

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I agree, and stand corrected. most here are AquaClear fans, that I associated with the new brand name. mine does a great job.

I have many, and I have always liked them, and it's easy to replace parts even if they wear out. It's just such a great design. Simple, but great.

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Glad to hear from all of you. I will show you what I end up getting when the time comes. Keep the updates coming though. It's nice to have people to hear from.
 
Glad to hear from all of you. I will show you what I end up getting when the time comes. Keep the updates coming though. It's nice to have people to hear from.

By the way, welcome to the forum!

Bit of newbie to the forum myself, getting back into the hobbie after a long absence. There is a lot of great advice here.
 
I've noticed, been spending a lot of my day learning from the veteran on here.
 
Have you looked art the aqueon quiteflow. I've had experience with fluvial cannister and aquaclear. I run when anything hagen shows up. Very bad experiences with hagen products. I've never had a problem with the aqueon quiteflow 55/75. Run 2 on a 75g African cichlid. Very good water clarity.

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Have you looked art the aqueon quiteflow. I've had experience with fluvial cannister and aquaclear. I run when anything hagen shows up. Very bad experiences with hagen products. I've never had a problem with the aqueon quiteflow 55/75. Run 2 on a 75g African cichlid. Very good water clarity.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Aquarium Advice mobile app

Wow, my experience is that aquaclear hob and Fluval canisters are both great... I've owned 3 Fluval canisters and probably 30 aquaclear hob (not a typo). I still have most of them that haven't been sold off with tank setups and what not.

My experience with aqueon quiet flows has been pretty disappointing. One of them quit on me after just a few months. Plus I'm just not a fan of proprietary cartridges in filters. The aquaclear filters are easier to customize. JMHO

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The quiet flows definitely leave alot to be desired. U can only use standard cartridges, and if u try to add more media the water just goes over the bypass and into the tank unfiltered. I have two quiet flow 10s that now gather dust. Cant go wrong with aquaclears.
 
Also not a fan of aqueon filters, essentially the could get the exact same result you get from an aqueon by filling your filter full of filter floss. They also do not last - I go through a lot of filters on all my tanks - and the aqueons have rarely lasted more than a year before they have to be replaced for one reason or another.

If you want some good ideas on putting plants in your HOB; check this thread Planted HOB thread.
 
Fluval C series is the best - makes others obsolete

Hands down go with the fluval. Much better quality had has 5 stages of filtration. I have the fluval C4's on my two 55's. May I ask what size tank is this for?
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AMEN. I have been touting the C series for a long time. I have an aquaclear 50 that is a piece of junk compared to the Fluval C (I now use the AC50 as an auxiliary third filter on my 38 gallon which has two C3's). The Fluval C is only a few bucks more than a comparable AquaClear on Amazon or Dr's Foster & Smith. I have one C4 on my 29 gallon and two C3's on my 38. I custom media and my water is exceptionally clear & polished:

Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community - Paul1792's Album: Paul1792's 38 gallon - Picture

Here are some links to the somewhat comprehensive posts I have made about Fluval C's being superior to any other:

Post #7 here:
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f60/hang-on-back-hob-filters-293838.html

Post #3 here:
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f60/fluval-c4-vs-bio-wheel-hobs-294841.html

Posts #11and 13 here:
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f60/what-is-the-best-hob-filter-138948-2.html

Posts #2 & 7 here:
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f60/optimal-filtration-293808.html

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There may be other ways to get there but the easiest sure fire way to get crystal clear polished water is with polishing pads - which come standard on Fluval C polyfiber inserts (although I use cut to fit 100 micron pad) and Seachem Purigen in lieu of carbon in the chemical chamber.

Link to my photobucket account which shows HOB filtration here:

HOB Filtration Photos by Paul1792 | Photobucket

[Just click on the pic you want and it enlarges and provides explanation]
 
Just keep in mind what it is you are actually trying to accomplish with your tank. Crystal clear polished water may or may not be your desire. If you are trying to keep a blackwater tank or a planted tank, crystal clear polished water produced using all kinds of nutrient absorbing products may not be what you are after. I run well over 30 different tanks ranging in size for 10 to 100 gallons including fresh, brackish, and salt water and I've tried a lot of different filters. The only HOB filters currently in use in my fishroom are Aquaclears - they have proven their functionality over the long term, the new fluval C has yet to do so - it may or it may not. If they stand up and show a proven long term performance then maybe I'll have to try one of them. Everyone has their own individual preferences, because every tank and every fishkeeper is different.
 
Funny, I've always found that a proper cleaning schedule along with my Fluval canisters or AC HOBs has kept my water crystal clear without the need for additional products like Purigen.

Imagine that...
 
Funny, I've always found that a proper cleaning schedule along with my Fluval canisters or AC HOBs has kept my water crystal clear without the need for additional products like Purigen. Imagine that...
+1 but my desired water clarity may differ from others...
 
+1 but my desired water clarity may differ from others...

Oh I don't know. I think other than black water tank aficionados, most of us have the same goal for water clarity:

no cloudiness/whiteness
no noticeable floating particles
low amounts of micro bubbles
no brown tint
no green tint
ability to enjoy the crisp colors of our fish/plants/other decor with nothing impeding the vision, as if strictly looking through a pane of glass and not glass/water.
 
Funny, I've always found that a proper cleaning schedule along with my Fluval canisters or AC HOBs has kept my water crystal clear without the need for additional products like Purigen.

Imagine that...

I tried the Purigen in place of my charcoal and it didn't really do anything for me, except slow my flow rate down. I understand the chemistry and know that Charcoal isn't necessary. My tank is biologically sound. For me, I see a difference in the clarity and less smell when I use charcoal. Plus charcoal will remove the impurities of the tap water (water conditioners only make them non-toxic). If I'm going on a trip over a weekend or longer, I will add ammo chips, as a safety measure against Ammonia spikes from others overfeeding while I am gone.
 
Just keep in mind what it is you are actually trying to accomplish with your tank. Crystal clear polished water may or may not be your desire. If you are trying to keep a blackwater tank or a planted tank, crystal clear polished water produced using all kinds of nutrient absorbing products may not be what you are after. I run well over 30 different tanks ranging in size for 10 to 100 gallons including fresh, brackish, and salt water and I've tried a lot of different filters. The only HOB filters currently in use in my fishroom are Aquaclears - they have proven their functionality over the long term, the new fluval C has yet to do so - it may or it may not. If they stand up and show a proven long term performance then maybe I'll have to try one of them. Everyone has their own individual preferences, because every tank and every fishkeeper is different.
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I take issue with both your statements. Lots of people get crystal clear polished water with AC70's by using tightly packed high grade floss and Purigen. It's just a lot more trouble to work with an AquaClear than it is a Fluval due to the messy media basket and the severe bypass issue ... which can be corrected with various "home-made" remedies (I use duct tape).

Removing micron particles (for crystal clear water) does not remove nitrates or any other plant nutrients. Further, Purigen does not remove any plant nutrients but does aid in the nitrogen cycle. By adding the trickle chamber for bio-filtration in the Fluval C series, it just means better conversion of nitrites to nitrates which the plants use as food.

I had never heard of blackwater tanks until you mentioned it.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/what-is-a-blackwater-tank-setup-32162.html

but If Purigen adversely affects them, just don't use it. You can still use a fluval C series filter without affecting the color caused by the chemical properties of the water.

Go here and read post #35 by Brian_Nano12g who uses Fluval C, has crystal clear water, and incredible planted tanks::

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/hob-filter-recommendation-294543-4.html

Then go here to his post #113:

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f24/brians-ada-60p-17g-rimless-journal-279701-12.html

and look at this video he posted on youtube

ADA 60P (rescape) with Ohko + Africana - YouTube

Maybe you should PM him directly for his thoughts.
 
Oh I don't know. I think other than black water tank aficionados, most of us have the same goal for water clarity:

no cloudiness/whiteness
no noticeable floating particles
low amounts of micro bubbles
no brown tint
no green tint
ability to enjoy the crisp colors of our fish/plants/other decor with nothing impeding the vision, as if strictly looking through a pane of glass and not glass/water.
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Extremely well said (y).
I better "bookmark" this one for future reference.

When making posts trying to help people achieve crystal clear polished water, I always get some nasty comment berating me such as "the fish don't care if the water is crystal clear" OR "crystal clear water looks unnatural." I say to each their own but for the vast majority that think it's great, people appreciate tips on how to get there.

I am not saying Fluval C is the ONLY way to get there with an HOB. Heck, I could get it with my old Walmart aqua-tech 30-60 by using home-made custom media including 100 micron cut to fit polishing pads, floss in a mesh bag pre-filter so water in the dirty water chamber was clean and suitable for Matrix & Purigen yada yada. It was just a majot "pain" in terms of time and effort. My point in touting the Fluval C series is not that it is the only way to get crystal clear polished water, but it's the best sure fired easiest way with an HOB.
 
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I take issue with both your statements. Lots of people get crystal clear polished water with AC70's by using tightly packed high grade floss and Purigen. It's just a lot more trouble to work with an AquaClear than it is a Fluval due to the messy media basket and the severe bypass issue ... which can be corrected with various "home-made" remedies (I use duct tape).

Removing micron particles (for crystal clear water) does not remove nitrates or any other plant nutrients. Further, Purigen does not remove any plant nutrients but does aid in the nitrogen cycle. By adding the trickle chamber for bio-filtration in the Fluval C series, it just means better conversion of nitrites to nitrates which the plants use as food.

Well Mr Paul, you are certainly welcome to take issue with whatever you like, frankly I don't care if you are offended by my answers to your rhetoric filled posts.

First of all, lets address your rhetoric shall we. Your opinions about "messy media baskets and severe bypass issues" are just that. Opinions. I frankly don't consider the media basket on the AC to be messy and I only have bipass issues when I fail to keep my filter clean and I'm running a whole lot more AC filters than your one. Perhaps you need to clean your filter out a little more often instead of putting duct tape on. Like you, I'm an aquarium keeper and a member of this forum, and like you, I'm both entitled to my opinion and entitled to state that opinion. Nor do I have to conform my thinking to yours. I have my own experiences and my own successes to draw from. One of the nice things about aquarium keeping is that there is no one right way to do things. Your opinion of what you think is best doesn't make it best for everyone else, and restating it over and over again my linking to your opinions on why YOU think it is best doesn't make it any more "best" for anyone else. Your posts might be a little bit better received if they were not so chock full of your high personal opinion of your own opinion.

Secondly, I'm well aware of what Brian is "accomplishing" in his aquarium thank you, as I've been following his threads longer than you have been a member of this forum. I don't need you to post link after link to his thread or his youtube site. I also don't have to conform my thinking to his just because you apparently think I should.

Third, I don't need your link to what a blackwater tank is thank you very much, as unlike yourself I already know what it is. In addition to be a scientist, I also keep several, so please don't try and educate me on what the filter does and doesn't do with the chemistry of the water

Now lets address the incorrect statement in your rhetoric shall we?

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Removing micron particles (for crystal clear water) does not remove nitrates or any other plant nutrients. Further, Purigen does not remove any plant nutrients but does aid in the nitrogen cycle. By adding the trickle chamber for bio-filtration in the Fluval C series, it just means better conversion of nitrites to nitrates which the plants use as food.

Not sure where you are getting your facts from Paul, but perhaps you need to better educate yourself on exactly what Purigen is and what it isn't. Perhaps one of these will help;

Seachems Purigan - zeovit.com

Amazon.com: Seachem Purigen 100ml: Pet Supplies

Seachem. Purigen

Purigen absolutely does remove both nitrates and phosphate, that what it was designed to do.

So your "issue" with my first statement is completely ungrounded and misplaced. Sorry about that - perhaps you should better educate yourself before you take issue with what someone tells you.

In regards to you taking issue with my second statement, I'm frankly a bit confused . . . I've been using AquaClear filters for a lot of years now, just how long has the Fluval C been on the market? I think perhaps you and I have a bit different definition of the phrase "long term." Perhaps is has something do with how long we have both been keeping aquariums ;), but if you choose to take issue with that, that is your problem.

Well looky there, I can write really long posts of my opinion with lots of links in them too! Imagine that . . .
 
I tried the Purigen in place of my charcoal and it didn't really do anything for me, except slow my flow rate down. I understand the chemistry and know that Charcoal isn't necessary. My tank is biologically sound. For me, I see a difference in the clarity and less smell when I use charcoal. Plus charcoal will remove the impurities of the tap water (water conditioners only make them non-toxic). If I'm going on a trip over a weekend or longer, I will add ammo chips, as a safety measure against Ammonia spikes from others overfeeding while I am gone.

I only use carbon when I need to remove something from the water, like when I've had to medicate, added a piece of DW that leached more tannins etc. Other than that, I use the sponge, the bio-ceramics and filter floss in my ACs and in my Fluval canisters. All of my tanks are crystal clear. But I'm also obsessive about tank maintenance.

As for when you're on vacation, I saw a very good suggestion from Severum Mama. Use a daily pill box. Have it pre-filled with the amount of food for each day.
 
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Extremely well said (y).
I better "bookmark" this one for future reference.

When making posts trying to help people achieve crystal clear polished water, I always get some nasty comment berating me such as "the fish don't care if the water is crystal clear" OR "crystal clear water looks unnatural." I say to each their own but for the vast majority that think it's great, people appreciate tips on how to get there.

I am not saying Fluval C is the ONLY way to get there with an HOB. Heck, I could get it with my old Walmart aqua-tech 30-60 by using home-made custom media including 100 micron cut to fit polishing pads, floss in a mesh bag pre-filter so water in the dirty water chamber was clean and suitable for Matrix & Purigen yada yada. It was just a majot "pain" in terms of time and effort. My point in touting the Fluval C series is not that it is the only way to get crystal clear polished water, but it's the best sure fired easiest way with an HOB.

See, and I get there without having to do all of that. Regular tank maintenance and filter floss. My ACs have floss instead of carbon or Purigen or any other "clarifying" agent. My Fluval canisters are the same. I have heavily planted tanks and some heavily stocked tanks, no clarity issues at all. No need for "clarifying" agents because I know how to keep up on my filters and my tanks.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f70/finally-new-pics-294439.html

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f24/40g-breeder-update-295938.html

These are just some of my tanks. Mind you, I've been down because I fell a few weeks ago so some of the tanks I'm having to regain control of as far as algae is concerned.
 
Well Mr Paul, you are certainly welcome to take issue with whatever you like, frankly I don't care if you are offended by my answers to your rhetoric filled posts.

First of all, lets address your rhetoric shall we. Your opinions about "messy media baskets and severe bypass issues" are just that. Opinions. I frankly don't consider the media basket on the AC to be messy and I only have bipass issues when I fail to keep my filter clean and I'm running a whole lot more AC filters than your one. Perhaps you need to clean your filter out a little more often instead of putting duct tape on. Like you, I'm an aquarium keeper and a member of this forum, and like you, I'm both entitled to my opinion and entitled to state that opinion. Nor do I have to conform my thinking to yours. I have my own experiences and my own successes to draw from. One of the nice things about aquarium keeping is that there is no one right way to do things. Your opinion of what you think is best doesn't make it best for everyone else, and restating it over and over again my linking to your opinions on why YOU think it is best doesn't make it any more "best" for anyone else. Your posts might be a little bit better received if they were not so chock full of your high personal opinion of your own opinion.

Secondly, I'm well aware of what Brian is "accomplishing" in his aquarium thank you, as I've been following his threads longer than you have been a member of this forum. I don't need you to post link after link to his thread or his youtube site. I also don't have to conform my thinking to his just because you apparently think I should.

Third, I don't need your link to what a blackwater tank is thank you very much, as unlike yourself I already know what it is. In addition to be a scientist, I also keep several, so please don't try and educate me on what the filter does and doesn't do with the chemistry of the water

Now lets address the incorrect statement in your rhetoric shall we?

Not sure where you are getting your facts from Paul, but perhaps you need to better educate yourself on exactly what Purigen is and what it isn't. Perhaps one of these will help;

Seachems Purigan - zeovit.com

Amazon.com: Seachem Purigen 100ml: Pet Supplies

Seachem. Purigen

Purigen absolutely does remove both nitrates and phosphate, that what it was designed to do.

So your "issue" with my first statement is completely ungrounded and misplaced. Sorry about that - perhaps you should better educate yourself before you take issue with what someone tells you.

In regards to you taking issue with my second statement, I'm frankly a bit confused . . . I've been using AquaClear filters for a lot of years now, just how long has the Fluval C been on the market? I think perhaps you and I have a bit different definition of the phrase "long term." Perhaps is has something do with how long we have both been keeping aquariums ;), but if you choose to take issue with that, that is your problem.

Well looky there, I can write really long posts of my opinion with lots of links in them too! Imagine that . . .
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Well, let's assume I was wrong about Purigen, fine. But that's what I thought I had read on the Seachem website. But I also said you can run a C series without it.

As for the link to blackwater tanks ........ for gosh sake ...... I assumed you had at least one and knew all about them. I put that in for anyone else who was reading the thread ... who, like me, might not know what a blackwater tank was.

Yes ....... as to the aquaclear basket being a mess ........ that is only my opinion. But I own both ....... do you?

The Fluval C has three separate chambers so it is easy to separate the media.
Each type of media in the Fluval C can be changed without messing with all the media AND can be changed without turning off the filter.

To service the AquaClear basket, you must shut off the filter ....... pull out the media basket as it drips all over the place ....... then try to get the different media stacked so that it is somewhat even. And trying to stuff floss in it is a mess. So that is my opinion. I can service a Fluval C series in a couple of minutes with zero mess. Servicing my aquaclear 50 is a major messy ordeal. And yes, that's only my opinion.

As to the bypass issue, you have it if your filter is unmodified. All those holes in the side cause water to bypass due to the law of physics that water follows the path of least resistance.

Here is the issue described along with a homemade cure (I used duct tape myself):

AquaClear bypassing filter media - Equipment Forum - Nano-Reef.com Forums

That's why there is a specially made filter basket for Aquaclears by an aftermarket company that makes the filter work correctly.

AquaClear 70 Media Basket

Have a great day !!!!!!!
 
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