Jebo Odysea CFS 4 problems

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Cash Turtle

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Oct 9, 2005
Messages
74
Location
Pocono lake,PA
One day i found my Jebo odysea cfs 4 running but there was no water going through it, it was hot to the touch so i unplugged it to let it cool down.
when i plugged it back in it wouldnt start but i can feel and hear it humming, it seems like the impeller jsut wont spin.
I cant get the impeller out to see if theres something blocking it
i opened up most of the top part of the filter adn inside the cover 9just the part the makes teh top look nice. I found a black rubber ball
i dont know where it goes, if it belongs in my filter somewhere or if it just got stuck in there on accident when the filter was built.?

any advice on how to get my filter working again would be great, the filter kept the water crystal clear for 2 months before this happened

im really hoping it didnt kill it
 
I have yet to disassemble the impeller on my unit .The instructions, if you have them are very simple to follow. There is no mention of a black rubber ball but a rubber spacer that must be properly set on the shaft. There must have been a reason it lost suction. Are you sure it was properly primed the last time you serviced it? You do need the housing to be 3/4 full before priming.Is filter positioned below the water level?
 
no it wasnt below water level (sorry i forgot to put that in the first post)
Its my first canister filter and there was nothing on the box saying it ned to be below water level so i didnt know at the time
it was probably even with te water level i have a 55 gallon and it was set on the floor. Also teh tubes weren't trimmed at all.
I bought a filstar xp3 to replace it and noticed that filter recomends cutting the tubing so i dont know if that cause a problem aswell
 
Having the tubing the length it came should be no problem.I use mine full length and have no problems.There is mention of the filter below water level in the manual. Have you returned the Jebo? Sorry to hear you replaced it. It is a great filter. I've been getting 9 months trouble free use and predict many years to come. If ever you need replacement parts you can easily find them at the superfishstore.com. I purchased my filter there.
 
mine didnt have a manual
my problem is that i bought it on ebay so i cant return it.
to get teh impeller out to i just have to pull and force it out? i was thinking about getting a new impeller and seeing if thats to problem. I do love the filter and when i have a little extra cash I'd like to get another one.
 
The manual states: Remove the pump-chamber cover(push down the impeller press-bar inside the motor,turn it left,carefully remove the cover). Remove impellers shaft(vertically take out the shaft in care.Make sure the rubber spacer is properly set on the shaft).Remove the impeller axle(Hold the impellers center and take out the axle).
 
make sure the impellers shaft is still strait if you get it out.. once you have it out try rolling it on a counter to see if it wobbles.. if the shaft wobbles, that would be a sighn of needing a new impeller (striating those things is a nightmare they have to be perfectly strait, Ive done it on other pumps and the hours it took really isnt worth it to an adult with a job..LOL)
 
let me see if i have this right, to get to the impeller on mine i push down on a round cover and twist it off. then i can see the impeller the first thing i can remove is a ceramic or porcelain stick with a peice of rubber on top ( the shaft?),
after that i cant pull anything else out
which part is the axle?
 
I disassembled mine so that I can better help you with yours.When you turn the pump-chamber cover counterclockwise slowly pull it out. The entire unit will or should come out together.If the cover comes off without the shaft,pull up the shaft and the impeller and magnet(what you called a stick) should come up with it. On each end of the shaft is a rubber boot.One of the boots is connected to the pump-chamber cover.Remove the magnet and impeller with shaft from the boot thats part of the pump-chamber cover.Set the cover aside.Now you can slide out the shaft with boot on opposite end from the magnet and impeller for inspection and cleaning.Be careful not to lose the rubber boot. Hope this helps,tried to explain in detail. Any other questions feel free or you can pm me.
 
One mystery solved, after struggling with teh impeler for awhile i got the propeller part to pop off, now i can see that a small part of teh wall seems to be melted intowards teh impeller preventing it from coming out.
I guess i did kill the filter. do you think i could file away the melted peice and have teh filter work again. im worried that i'll break though teh plastic wall of the filter and then it will be perminantly dead, but on the other hand if i dont get rid of that melted peice of plastic the filter will never run anyway
hmm waht to do, i'll try to get a picture to show the melted part
 
you could try to file it.. epoxy resuin could fill a small hole if you create one.. just so it stays round and smooth it sould work agian.. HTH
 
A bit off topic, although this is an interesting thread: Has anyone ever had problems with the output of the CFS4 "collapsing"? I went on vacation for 2 weeks, and when I got back the outlet tube, right where it connects, was bent downwards, preventing flow. I have a feeling this is what they are trying to avoid by cutting the tubing. Anyone have other solutions, as I don't want to cut anything?
 
My Jebo is dead, I scraped away the melted peice that was holding teh impeller in
(the magnet was the part that wouldnt come out.)
all teh plastic around where the impeller was is warped from when it over heated and theres a small hole melted out near the bottom. I dont feel in anyway qualified to try and fix it so im going to eiter sell it or give it away for the part that can be used
tubes,valves,media baskets,etc i think that the impeller itself might even be ok


I have had my tubes collapse on me, I just swiveled the valves and rearranged the tubes until they stayed open
 
Behind that wall is the motor and armature that enable the magnet/impeller to spin. I don't think it is a good idea unless it can be done without compromising the integrity of the housing wall. You DO NOT want to create any type of leak into the motor housing. You could chance an electrical fire.
 
WFTM: Haven't had this problem and my hoses are uncut length. What I would do is tie a nylon cord on the hose where it connects to the valves, if this is where the kink is, pull it up and tie it to a higher level(maybe the tank,or a part of the stand or even something screwed in an adjacent wall(small hook). Another idea is to tie a piece of metal clothes hanger to the hose so it lies across the kink.
 
Cash Turtle; If your interested,I just received an e-mail back from the superfishstore.com and they sell the complete motor head for $39.99 Cheaper than getting a complete unit if all else is good
 
Thanx alot thats perfect, as far as I know my melted motor is the only problem. :mrgreen:
that makes my day. I'll email them right now and find out about getting one :D
 
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