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Old 06-08-2012, 10:39 PM   #51
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Then it looks like I will be holding off on this fixture, I'm not in TOO big of a rush to get a fixture but I am passing through san Antonio where this guy is located tomorrow so it would work out well!
But I am on the hunt to find a light because I don't want to get any corals until I have the light that will be permanent...hoping to find a T5 or a LED.
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Old 06-09-2012, 01:30 AM   #52
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I know you want led or t5 , but check this out. Metal halide is the gold standard to which all other lights are compared.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=22260019941

Well I thought it was really cheap, but it doesn't come with ballast or bulbs, so I don't know. Maybe another fixture may be cheaper that comes with those.
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Old 06-09-2012, 02:20 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saratj1
I know you want led or t5 , but check this out. Metal halide is the gold standard to which all other lights are compared.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=22260019941

Well I thought it was really cheap, but it doesn't come with ballast or bulbs, so I don't know. Maybe another fixture may be cheaper that comes with those.
That's actually a pretty good price and a nice fixture! But I actually think I'm gonna get this fixture:
http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/for/3036763790.html
It doesn't have a fan but the guy said he had it running for 12 hours and it didn't get warm
He took a pic of it over an aquarium and it looked pretty good, even has a dimmer on the blues
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Old 06-11-2012, 12:43 AM   #54
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Don't confuse the wattage of the emmitter with the quality. LEDs come in sizes as small as those in watches to much larger like those in stop lights. The LEDs he uses are strip lights. They make WATERPROOF strips, which may be why he used those instead of 1w LEDs. Additionally, other than the controller, there is NO additional electronics needed, which is NOT the case with multiple 1w LED lights. As for the power supply, that is in fact a standard LED power supply. He has built a very simple to construct LED system that doesn't look half bad, but I'm not sure if I'd want to limit to the 10K lights.
His numbers do seem to add up tho as far as lumines go vs wattage and number of lights.
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Old 06-11-2012, 01:52 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by Ingy
Don't confuse the wattage of the emmitter with the quality. LEDs come in sizes as small as those in watches to much larger like those in stop lights. The LEDs he uses are strip lights. They make WATERPROOF strips, which may be why he used those instead of 1w LEDs. Additionally, other than the controller, there is NO additional electronics needed, which is NOT the case with multiple 1w LED lights. As for the power supply, that is in fact a standard LED power supply. He has built a very simple to construct LED system that doesn't look half bad, but I'm not sure if I'd want to limit to the 10K lights.
His numbers do seem to add up tho as far as lumines go vs wattage and number of lights.
Haha man I understood about half of what you said! I'm more of a carpenter than an electrician haha
Are you saying its a good one?
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:34 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by Ingy View Post
Don't confuse the wattage of the emmitter with the quality. LEDs come in sizes as small as those in watches to much larger like those in stop lights. The LEDs he uses are strip lights. They make WATERPROOF strips, which may be why he used those instead of 1w LEDs. Additionally, other than the controller, there is NO additional electronics needed, which is NOT the case with multiple 1w LED lights. As for the power supply, that is in fact a standard LED power supply. He has built a very simple to construct LED system that doesn't look half bad, but I'm not sure if I'd want to limit to the 10K lights.
His numbers do seem to add up tho as far as lumines go vs wattage and number of lights.
I do not agree. I believe that the power or wattage of the individual emitter does matter with regards to making the best light for a reef aquarium. If you take this concept to the extreme then Either a single 100w emitter is just the same a 10x10w emitters or 100 1 w emitters or 333 x 0.3w emitters. I think there is a significant difference in these different setups .
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:14 AM   #57
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Actually the point of the source does not make any difference to the ability to penetrate when it comes to light. There is a measurable attenuation per inch of water the light travels thru.
If you have 100 x 1 w bulbs and a 100 w bulb they would both halve the same penetration or more correctly, attenuation as measured in Db loss. The only difference would be the definition of the shadows
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:36 PM   #58
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Could you post links outlining what your saying, I am interested in this subject and could not find any good info in a basic search supporting my point or your point. Thanks.
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:10 PM   #59
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I don't know about links. I am an electronics technologist with a major in communications which includes the traveling of light.
As electromagnetic pulses pass thru a medium there is a measurable loss of signal strength based on a number of factors. This includes light passing thru water. Frequency of the light has a huge impact on attenuation. That is why the blues penetrate better than reds and yellows.
But the size of the light source has no impact on penetration. The losses are measured in dB losses with a 3dB loss being a 50% loss in strength. We can overcome this loss by focussing the transmitter to the target area. The number on focussing lenses represents a 3dB loss compared to the center of the light. That is to say a light with a 40 degree beamwidth would have 1/2 as much light at the 40 degree edges as at the center of the beam.
So having 100 x 1 w LEDs would get the exact same amount of light to the same depth as 1 x 100 w led if they have the same lenses. Of course the 100 watt led would have all the light more centered under the bulb and the array would have the energy more spread out with fewer shadows. higher strength bulbs tend to have narrower focussing lenses which may lead some to think they penetrate better because of their size rather than their lenses.
If you had a coral with higher light needs you could certainly place a few LEDs closer to that target.
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:40 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ingy
I don't know about links. I am an electronics technologist with a major in communications which includes the traveling of light.
As electromagnetic pulses pass thru a medium there is a measurable loss of signal strength based on a number of factors. This includes light passing thru water. Frequency of the light has a huge impact on attenuation. That is why the blues penetrate better than reds and yellows.
But the size of the light source has no impact on penetration. The losses are measured in dB losses with a 3dB loss being a 50% loss in strength. We can overcome this loss by focussing the transmitter to the target area. The number on focussing lenses represents a 3dB loss compared to the center of the light. That is to say a light with a 40 degree beamwidth would have 1/2 as much light at the 40 degree edges as at the center of the beam.
So having 100 x 1 w LEDs would get the exact same amount of light to the same depth as 1 x 100 w led if they have the same lenses. Of course the 100 watt led would have all the light more centered under the bulb and the array would have the energy more spread out with fewer shadows. higher strength bulbs tend to have narrower focussing lenses which may lead some to think they penetrate better because of their size rather than their lenses.
If you had a coral with higher light needs you could certainly place a few LEDs closer to that target.
So your saying that I will have more shadows with less powerful bulbs?
And these bulbs are strong enough to grow SPS corals right? Here's another pic of the specs:


Attachment 100413
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