Led lighting

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I'm just a noob. But I have been reading and reading.. Lol. Def a lot of great info out there. But the hard part is on some things.. Is who to believe.. One website tells you a whole story on what to do.. But the next site says don't do that... Lol one expert will say yes.. The next expert will say no.
 
I'm just a noob. But I have been reading and reading.. Lol. Def a lot of great info out there. But the hard part is on some things.. Is who to believe.. One website tells you a whole story on what to do.. But the next site says don't do that... Lol one expert will say yes.. The next expert will say no.

That's why you have to look at several sources and make your own mind up as to where the evidence leads.
 
I want to chime in on this topic with a different perspective then most would have. I am an electrician, I install lights, leds, drivers etc. all the time. I also go the wholesalers to put together lighting packages for different jobs. I know the cost of these fixtures and I cant justify paying upwards of 900$ (CND) for a Radion Pro fixture. Regardless of the LED brand, Driver brand, dimming vs no dimming the cost of parts in these fixtures is a fraction of the price you pay for these things.

Now I understand you pay for the development and the fancy cases etc but really? Its not worth it IMO, I would rather buy the chinese ebay fixtures and save the money, if I have to double them up im still further ahead. I just purchased 3 fixtures for tank for 500$. One AI SOL would cost me $399.99 I would need 3, one Radion (basic model) would cost $660 and again I need 3.

So lets work it out.

3 "No Names"--$500
3 AI Sol-------$1199.97
3 Radions-----$1980

Now even if I need to replace a full unit, or change out the drivers or a few LED's im still looking at less cost for the same effect. Maybe my corals wont grow as fast or become as bright but im a firm believer in the fact that this hobby should affordable for everyone. Not just the people who can dump $2000+ into lights without a flinch.

Just my 2 cents but until the cost comes down I think if someone finds a fixture in the price range that works for them, go for it they will all do the same thing, provide light for corals, just at different rates.
 
I am an engineer and also build my own fixtures. You have described my view point better than I did. The Chinese panels are great, it's why I used them and fought with many on this forum who didn't believe they were worth anything, but for $100 more I found a better built (Chinese drivers are junk) fixture that has the added benefit of a more pleasing spectrum.
 
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One thing you guys didn't notice. The OP only wants to keep fish, if I understand correctly- nothing photosynthetic. If that's the case, The marineland unit is perfect for them.
 
That's right, if its just fish you can use about anything you want. We get kind of reef centric now and then!

This has become an interesting thread as there is much changing with LED. How do you Mr_X weigh in on this? You were an early adopter of Chinese panels too. What is your opinion on dimming and color spectrum? We have discussed this before and it was a good conversation.
 
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That's right, if its just fish you can use about anything you want. We get kind of reef centric now and then!

But how do you Mr_X weigh in on this? You were an early adopter of Chinese panels too. What is your opinion on dimming and color spectrum?

The "full spectrum" units are completely unnecessary. I have corals growing under both those and the straight blue and whites and they are the same.
Dimmable is important IMO, even if it's just a pair of knobs on top of the unit. I say this mainly for acclimation purposes. I believe this is the reason people think they can't color up corals under the fixtures- because they bleach the dickens out of them early on.
 
You don't believe there is value in enhancing the corals color on display? I didn't go this route to increase growth. Do all your fixtures dim? I just have a shaded area I start corals out in. Bleaching is certainly a problem with LEDs.

If this was the case, why don't we just use flood lights? Lots of PAR for $5.
 
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I don't see the colored fixtures enhancing the color much at all. No, all of my fixtures do not dim. I have 4 non-dimmable and 2 dimmable, and one of those 2 is a multicolored one.
 
I set them up side by side and I thought both looked fine, but the full spectrum really made the colors pop out in a very natural look. I found it pretty dramatic when compared like this. Again, I won't argue growth as long as PAR values are similar. But I wouldn't display a fine piece of art and light it with a cheap fluorescent bulb,

We also did this at the LFS using T5 and MH, the Rapid fixture "looked" better than both to me.
 
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I have the Reef Breeder one which is the colored one we are speaking of, in the mix over my tank with 3 other straight blue and white Taotronics units, and I like the blue and white sections better actually. I believe the light looks crisper and the water looks clearer there. The colored units remind me of when I was using T5's and everyone recommended that Fiji Purple lamp. I hated how pink it made my tank look, and IMO, I believe it did the opposite of what they said- they claimed it would bring out the reds, but I think it made the entire tank pink and sort of washed out the reds.
 
I'm not seeing that effect with this fixture. It balances out at about 18k. Red mushrooms look about 2 shades deeper red, but no bleed over or pink casts.

I still have the blue/white Chinese panels (600 watts) over my main reef. Tried the Rapids on the frag tank first.
 
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the reason why it is odd and most people switch red+green to just blend warm white,because the LED beam would not blend within the short distance (from fixture to the tank bottom. You almost feels like looking thru the old style blue and red 3D glasses sometime because the multi color fixture sometimes would create odd looking shades.
 
the reason why it is odd and most people switch red+green to just blend warm white,because the LED beam would not blend within the short distance (from fixture to the tank bottom. You almost feels like looking thru 3D glasses sometime because the multi color fixture sometimes would create odd looking shades.

For those that was following reefbreeder products, their full spectrum PAR38 used to have different color mix together, and if you check it again, it is using only different color temp white with violet and mix blue to get a better blend.

This is especially visible when using fewer emitters with longer focal lengths. But even using the 60 degree lenses, I can detect no halo effects. My home made 200 watt light uses 2 100 watt emitters, it really makes a halo, but its in the frag tank constantly moving so I don't care.
 
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don't get me wrong, i am using full sepctrum myself as well
ZP3600
and the stronger white LED my fixture provide blend everything together. However, I don't see the full spectrum being anything but personal preference. Some people like you like the looks of it, some one like Mr_X doesn't. However, dimming is still something I agree with Mr_X that it is very needed.

Someone previously mentioned that different type of acclimation or even no acclimation is fine just no water change for long time would work also. It was consider keeping reef is a gamble. I agree when luck is part of reef keeping, but it doesn't mean that we shouldn't provide best practice. Like I said before, there are many people looking for information and help as they just start joining the community, provide them information base on best practice than luck would really help them start. If you saying that everything is gamble, then those who want to get into reef keeping might as well just spend al ltheir money in casino, since gamble in casino still can get some money back, but gamble in Reef is 100% losing money regardless that u are the winner or the loser.
 
Even when gambling you can use knowledge to reduce your risk.

It is preference. I didn't know I liked the full spectrum until my son showed me some reefs he has done recently.

I will also buy dimming LEDs for my main reef just because I would like a sun rise and sun set. But the acclimation process happens in the frag tank where my lights are on a pulley system, so dimming isn't a requirement for me. It "should" add $20 at most to make a simple dimming driver. But some companies think its worth hundreds of dollars.
 
For those who really need to understand the reef lighting, here is the link that is more detailed and complete. After reading it, you can make your own conclusion for yourself what is good for your tank. For those who need more explanation on some of its content, please do throw some questions on this thread and someone will surely glad to explain it more clearly.

Aquarium Lighting, Light Information; Reef & Planted, PAR, Watt, Kelvin.
 
I'm using just the 3 50w12-14000k daylight floods. And was using 2 30w 540 nm's and both colors blended perfectly. Used a meter right above my birds nest which sits 7" below top water surface. And it read 290 par and 14000k. Put the meter at the bottom of the tank and it was in the 150's for par and 9000k.. The birdsnest is growing very much.. Has added about 50 nubs in the last few days and I never acclimated to light.. Bought a neon candy cane with 12 heads on it 3 weeks ago. At the top of the tank it now has 15 heads... Maybe it's just luck.. But it seams what I have is doing pretty good... I recently built a new canopy and my actinic floods don't work. So I wired up a 16' strip of blue flex strips. And tho the blue is there its not as crisp as the floods. But it's much brighter than say a t5 actinic..

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Blue strips

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And I paid 200 for all.. Now.. The guy raised his floods from 50 a light to 100 a light... Only because he is selling them now that people have started buying...
 
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