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Old 03-22-2013, 07:31 PM   #31
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I have the Reef Breeder one which is the colored one we are speaking of, in the mix over my tank with 3 other straight blue and white Taotronics units, and I like the blue and white sections better actually. I believe the light looks crisper and the water looks clearer there. The colored units remind me of when I was using T5's and everyone recommended that Fiji Purple lamp. I hated how pink it made my tank look, and IMO, I believe it did the opposite of what they said- they claimed it would bring out the reds, but I think it made the entire tank pink and sort of washed out the reds.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:36 PM   #32
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I'm not seeing that effect with this fixture. It balances out at about 18k. Red mushrooms look about 2 shades deeper red, but no bleed over or pink casts.

I still have the blue/white Chinese panels (600 watts) over my main reef. Tried the Rapids on the frag tank first.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:38 PM   #33
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Hmm...this is the one I am using currently-
reefbreeders
Stats are on the page.
How does yours differ?
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:41 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_X View Post
Hmm...this is the one I am using currently-
reefbreeders
Stats are on the page.
How does yours differ?
18k color temperature:

14 CREE XT-E Royal Blue
8 CREE XP-G Cool White
4 Violet UV
1 CREE XP-E Green
1 Oslon 660nm Red

Not as many colored LEDs as yours.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:41 PM   #35
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the reason why it is odd and most people switch red+green to just blend warm white,because the LED beam would not blend within the short distance (from fixture to the tank bottom. You almost feels like looking thru the old style blue and red 3D glasses sometime because the multi color fixture sometimes would create odd looking shades.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:45 PM   #36
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the reason why it is odd and most people switch red+green to just blend warm white,because the LED beam would not blend within the short distance (from fixture to the tank bottom. You almost feels like looking thru 3D glasses sometime because the multi color fixture sometimes would create odd looking shades.

For those that was following reefbreeder products, their full spectrum PAR38 used to have different color mix together, and if you check it again, it is using only different color temp white with violet and mix blue to get a better blend.
This is especially visible when using fewer emitters with longer focal lengths. But even using the 60 degree lenses, I can detect no halo effects. My home made 200 watt light uses 2 100 watt emitters, it really makes a halo, but its in the frag tank constantly moving so I don't care.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:55 PM   #37
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don't get me wrong, i am using full sepctrum myself as well
ZP3600
and the stronger white LED my fixture provide blend everything together. However, I don't see the full spectrum being anything but personal preference. Some people like you like the looks of it, some one like Mr_X doesn't. However, dimming is still something I agree with Mr_X that it is very needed.

Someone previously mentioned that different type of acclimation or even no acclimation is fine just no water change for long time would work also. It was consider keeping reef is a gamble. I agree when luck is part of reef keeping, but it doesn't mean that we shouldn't provide best practice. Like I said before, there are many people looking for information and help as they just start joining the community, provide them information base on best practice than luck would really help them start. If you saying that everything is gamble, then those who want to get into reef keeping might as well just spend al ltheir money in casino, since gamble in casino still can get some money back, but gamble in Reef is 100% losing money regardless that u are the winner or the loser.
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:01 PM   #38
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Even when gambling you can use knowledge to reduce your risk.

It is preference. I didn't know I liked the full spectrum until my son showed me some reefs he has done recently.

I will also buy dimming LEDs for my main reef just because I would like a sun rise and sun set. But the acclimation process happens in the frag tank where my lights are on a pulley system, so dimming isn't a requirement for me. It "should" add $20 at most to make a simple dimming driver. But some companies think its worth hundreds of dollars.
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:15 PM   #39
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For those who really need to understand the reef lighting, here is the link that is more detailed and complete. After reading it, you can make your own conclusion for yourself what is good for your tank. For those who need more explanation on some of its content, please do throw some questions on this thread and someone will surely glad to explain it more clearly.

Aquarium Lighting, Light Information; Reef & Planted, PAR, Watt, Kelvin.
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:58 PM   #40
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I'm using just the 3 50w12-14000k daylight floods. And was using 2 30w 540 nm's and both colors blended perfectly. Used a meter right above my birds nest which sits 7" below top water surface. And it read 290 par and 14000k. Put the meter at the bottom of the tank and it was in the 150's for par and 9000k.. The birdsnest is growing very much.. Has added about 50 nubs in the last few days and I never acclimated to light.. Bought a neon candy cane with 12 heads on it 3 weeks ago. At the top of the tank it now has 15 heads... Maybe it's just luck.. But it seams what I have is doing pretty good... I recently built a new canopy and my actinic floods don't work. So I wired up a 16' strip of blue flex strips. And tho the blue is there its not as crisp as the floods. But it's much brighter than say a t5 actinic..

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Blue strips

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And I paid 200 for all.. Now.. The guy raised his floods from 50 a light to 100 a light... Only because he is selling them now that people have started buying...
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