LED lights

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Here is the bracket i made. Goes with my cabinet and frame. Only thing is it isnt 12" above the water. However i spoke with the retailer and the main reason they recommend that height is to reduce moisture.
I have glass covers so this isnt an issue.
So far i have been playing about with the settings i have, the most successful so far being 30-40% whites and 100% blues. But still altering!


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I’ve been buying/testing LED models and brands since 2005 when they first came on the market. At least 95% are made in China and most will suffice to grow corals. What I look for (I’m still testing, looking for the “best” LED for our purpose), is cost, color mix, programability, ease of programing, and PAR. Are focal lenses better than bare LED chips? Depends. Are you looking for the best spread or focused spot with little spread? Is your tank shallow, 16”, or deep, 24 t0 30” deep, or deeper? There’s many variables to consider.

I have some I like such as the Photon mentioned earlier, the latest model of Exotic Sun is good, AIs are good and there are others. I’ve spent from under $200 to well over $1000 WHOLESALE for some fixtures and I’ll tell you the best is somewhere in between. There is an inherent problem with LED light fixtures. They are evolving faster than smart phones.

As soon as I think I’ve found the best, it changes for the better OR a different company introduces the latest wiz-bang LED fixture and it has a somewhat different programability or can be controlled by your smart phone, etc. So the quest continues Ad infinitum or so it seems.

Seeking advice from the forum members is a good thing as you get others experience with a particular brand times the number of posters equals some confusion because most think their brand is the best or good enough which leaves many unanswered questions. Like, which one should you buy???

Someone above mentioned cost. Certainly a factor to take into consideration. What’s your budget? Also, what’s your significant-other’s thoughts on budget(If there is a significant-other)?

My point is this... You can search, research and think about which model is “best” or, you can make a decision and buy a unit and test it yourself. After all you may or may not be satisfied with the results. Just like no two SW tank systems are alike, so too are LED fixtures different from each other. There’s two many variables to vary the results from one tank to the next, from one’s experience to the other. Just make a decision and go with it.

My advice, if you were to ask for it is this...

Be sure you get a fixture that you can control sunrise, day length, sunset, can vary the blues, whites and other colors separately. The rest of the features like, lightening, cloud cover, etc, while certainly add some flair, it’s not flair I want and all that does is add to the cost and the probability of a breakdown. Moon lights? Yeah, cool but not necessary although most with a program will give you moonlight. I have my moonlights at 1% of blue, whites off.

I hope this sheds some light on the subject of LED lighting. By-the-way my next fixture to test is the Pacific Sun. A combination of LED without lenses and T5 bulbs.

As a footnote to this post... I recently returned from Germany where I had the opportunity to visit Korallan Zucht’s retail store. If you are not familiar with Korallen Zucht, I suggest you hit their web site and look at the most beautiful healthy coral in captivity. For maximum growth and color they use nothing but T5 lighting. Visit them here -
Home - Korallen-Zucht.de
 
That's a pretty fair assessment. But in the end it's about efficiency vs cost. As a engineer, I value a design that will last for a while. I also value versatility as we don't always get our design right the first time. Chinese panels work fine and are a low investment. But they lack some bells and whistles that others value. If your capable, building your own fixture gives you the maximum flexibility for the best price. Efficiency (lenses and other factors) makes a difference, but in general the more light delivered at the right frequencies the better. Lenses allow for concentration of light in deep tanks. But buyer beware. Any fixture manufacturer that doesn't disclose details about the number, color and power of their leds is probably not what you want.

As too legacy lighting like MH and T5, they both deliver photons. I used both for decades. But in the end, I have found LEDs to be vastly easier to deal with and every bit as capable as any other lighting source.

Good thread.


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This may seem to be a silly question, but it is LED related, and obviously them correctly is every bit as important having them. I have it set so that the actinic comes on, then later the white comes on, hours later white goes off and finally actinic off. Is that too much light, having both the actinic and white on at the same time? A total of 240W undimmable Taotronic LED over 55 gallon tank. Thanks in advance.
 
So that is the two taotronics over the tank? How many hours are they on? I would run things just like you stated, but for no longer for a 10 hour cycle.


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I would personally run a 10 hour photoperiod. Have the blues come on for an hour, then the whites, and then an hour before lights out down to blues and then off.


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I know that I was under using my lights, I told to cut them way back because of cyano. Now I have GFO, and that would probably have been a way better solution. Everything suffered from lack of light. Now working my tank strength back up.
 
Well, technically right. That would make some and sometimes all cyano disappear, but not address the nutrient issue as you pointed out and are using gfo to address.


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Im running a 7 hour cycle and my corals look happy but not a whole lot of growth. Would y'all suggest a 10 hour cycle. Right now I have no algae in the tank

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Those are all lower light level corals. If the mushrooms look nice and compact and not stretching for the light, your good to go IMO.


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