Lighting your reef... Best bang for your buck.

[mr_X]

Compared to a T5 that may be true but not compared to a quality LED. And as for the heat yes, there is a reason this fixture runs 3 computer fans, because it runs hot. The manufacturer even states they run each 3w diode at 2 watts to match the cooling system while also extending lifespan.

So why 3 cooling fans when every brand name led only requires for the most part only heatsinks.

Read here
TaoTronics, SkyLED LED Light Reviews | My Aquarium Opinions

My point being they run hot and loud for LED's and also use more energy with less useful energy output.

This article was nothing more than opinion. They never checked PAR or PUR with a meter. They simply state that they aren't as good with no data to back the claim up. I wonder what the motivation for writing this article was, without operating one prior to doing so.
I'm telling you that they work fine. I have proof. My sps looks great. I've been growing coral for a while now and I can guarantee that these fixtures are more efficient than t5 or metal halide and use less energy. The PAR is more than enough to grow colorful sps on the sand bed, 30" away. You can't do that with a 250 watt halide.
As far as purple on the sps...take that fixture you have off of the tank and replace it with a 10k halide. You won't see any purple! It's not the potency of the fixture you are seeing, it's the color temperature.
The clear plastic cover that is over the LEDs is barely warm to the touch.

I'm going to purchase one of the units with reds and greens in them and I'll report my findings.

 

[Gregcoyote]

I'm going to order some as well. My son builds his own lights and he throws in a few red and cyan LEDs. I think his light "looks" better.

 

[danbstrong]

This article was nothing more than opinion. They never checked PAR or PUR with a meter. They simply state that they aren't as good with no data to back the claim up. I wonder what the motivation for writing this article was, without operating one prior to doing so.
I'm telling you that they work fine. I have proof. My sps looks great. I've been growing coral for a while now and I can guarantee that these fixtures are more efficient than t5 or metal halide and use less energy. The PAR is more than enough to grow colorful sps on the sand bed, 30" away. You can't do that with a 250 watt halide.
As far as purple on the sps...take that fixture you have off of the tank and replace it with a 10k halide. You won't see any purple! It's not the potency of the fixture you are seeing, it's the color temperature.
The clear plastic cover that is over the LEDs is barely warm to the touch.

I'm going to purchase one of the units with reds and greens in them and I'll report my findings.

The picture is with 14k whites only no actinics
but if you take any coral and place it under10k its not gonna look as good under 14k or even 20k that goes without saying would you and greg show a pic of your best acro under whites only at any kelvin to back up your theory thatd be nice id like to see your results of the lights your swearing by

 

[Gregcoyote]

Grown from a 1" frag in 120 days. Blue LEDs are turned way down for the photo.

Fisheye photo is from a iPhone under my normal reef LED lighting.

Capricornus at 24" below the "cheap" Chinese panel.

Look at my thread where I describe my moving focused LED that generates over 1200 PAR on my frag tank. You can do a lot without spending huge amounts of money.

 

[danbstrong]

The picture is with 14k whites only no actinics
but if you take any coral and place it under10k its not gonna look as good under 14k or even 20k that goes without saying would you and greg show a pic of your best acro under whites only at any kelvin to back up your theory thatd be nice id like to see your results of the lights your swearing by

Here is some of my best sps coral under 14k cree no blues on or actinic par i have no idea im only goin by what my coral show me again this is only my experience no science or numbers or par or anything to back it up

 

[danbstrong]

Grown from a 1" frag in 120 days. Blue LEDs are turned way down for the photo.

Fisheye photo is from a iPhone under my normal reef LED lighting.

Capricornus at 24" below the "cheap" Chinese panel.

My blues are off for the photo in mine the blues are what make the color pop mine look even better with blues on thats kinda my point i wanted to see with no blue but none the less well can agree to disagree but your coral look good and healthy i can appreciate that

 

[Gregcoyote]

Whatever works...works.

 

[danbstrong]

Whatever works...works.

Before we end the debate i think we both can agree that we have amazing looking coral lol

 

[mr_X]

I just took some photos. I don't know if my tank or corals are the best examples, due to the fact that I am working through a excessive nutrient problem. I'm going to post a few in my tank thread. Meanwhile, the name of this thread is "Lighting your reef, the best bang for your buck", and not, "the best lighting on the market, no matter the cost".
For under 200 dollars, it most certainly is one of these units.

 

[Animal-Chin]

I'm just excited that i'll finally be able to get one of those awsome clams!

 

[Psychocircus91]

I'm still torn between the taotronics all blue and white, and the reefbreeders with blue, white, red, and green. Assuming the $30 extra doesn't matter, does anyone have a recommendation? Glad this thread took off.

 

[LaWoWee]

Blues and whites are all you need. The ratio and pattern is your preference.

 

[oyf709]

I thought I replied this thread before but once again,

I would suggest 40% CW or NW with 30% Royal Blue and 30% Blue, you can add maybe 2 to 4 UV/Violet and maybe odd number of red green 1 or 2 each

 

[Daniel Fishy]

I'm still torn between the taotronics all blue and white, and the reefbreeders with blue, white, red, and green. Assuming the $30 extra doesn't matter, does anyone have a recommendation? Glad this thread took off.

I was in same boat between the two. Show the reef breeders page to some older reefers they didn't like the 3500 and 6500 k ratings of the whites and the red they didn't think it was necessary. They were concerned about algae growth with such low whites. Im going with taotronics Mr X and Greg have success with them.

 

[Daniel Fishy]

Oops 7500k not 6500k still feel the same tho.

 

[Gregcoyote]

I just built a light with a pair of 100 watt multisegmented emitters with the large 90 degree lenses. Used a 100 watt royal blue and started with a 7500K 100 watt white they called "cool white." I found this to have too much yellow so I changed it for one rated at 20000K. It is bluer and a nicer color, but the PAR is just slightly less. Will use those emitters again.

 

[Psychocircus91]

Do the typical taotronics have two power cords to hook them up to two timers?

 

[oyf709]

there is nothing wrong with the Warm white and NW. It simply just telling you they have more red and green spectrum compare to the CW. In fact, I would strongly suggest use warm white and NW rather than just CW. The kelvin reading for the light is not just base on the any specific LED, it is the overall balance with all LED calculate together. If you have about 30% WW and NW but 70% Royal blue, you are looking at a range between 14000K to 20000K. I also don't think the WW or NW is the reason that those people has algae.
The blue spectrum actually helps algae grow also.

The WW and NW If using correct combination would provide a more vivid coloration to human eyes instead of pure blue.

 

[oyf709]

Do the typical taotronics have two power cords to hook them up to two timers?

I have seen 2 cords, I also have seen 1 cord.

 

[Daniel Fishy]

there is nothing wrong with the Warm white and NW. It simply just telling you they have more red and green spectrum compare to the CW. In fact, I would strongly suggest use warm white and NW rather than just CW. The kelvin reading for the light is not just base on the any specific LED, it is the overall balance with all LED calculate together. If you have about 30% WW and NW but 70% Royal blue, you are looking at a range between 14000K to 20000K. I also don't think the WW or NW is the reason that those people has algae.
The blue spectrum actually helps algae grow also.

The WW and NW If using correct combination would provide a more vivid coloration to human eyes instead of pure blue.

Take a look at reef breeder 120watt dimmable for 179. Let me know what you think the chart really helps to understand different colors. There full intensity reading is 14000k meaning at lower setting it would be less? what about the yellow look will it have that with the other colors?thanks