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Old 01-02-2013, 09:23 PM   #71
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I'm still torn between the taotronics all blue and white, and the reefbreeders with blue, white, red, and green. Assuming the $30 extra doesn't matter, does anyone have a recommendation? Glad this thread took off.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:27 PM   #72
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Blues and whites are all you need. The ratio and pattern is your preference.
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:27 PM   #73
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I thought I replied this thread before but once again,


I would suggest 40% CW or NW with 30% Royal Blue and 30% Blue, you can add maybe 2 to 4 UV/Violet and maybe odd number of red green 1 or 2 each
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:32 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psychocircus91 View Post
I'm still torn between the taotronics all blue and white, and the reefbreeders with blue, white, red, and green. Assuming the $30 extra doesn't matter, does anyone have a recommendation? Glad this thread took off.
I was in same boat between the two. Show the reef breeders page to some older reefers they didn't like the 3500 and 6500 k ratings of the whites and the red they didn't think it was necessary. They were concerned about algae growth with such low whites. Im going with taotronics Mr X and Greg have success with them.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:34 PM   #75
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Oops 7500k not 6500k still feel the same tho.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:15 AM   #76
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I just built a light with a pair of 100 watt multisegmented emitters with the large 90 degree lenses. Used a 100 watt royal blue and started with a 7500K 100 watt white they called "cool white." I found this to have too much yellow so I changed it for one rated at 20000K. It is bluer and a nicer color, but the PAR is just slightly less. Will use those emitters again.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:27 AM   #77
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Do the typical taotronics have two power cords to hook them up to two timers?
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:27 AM   #78
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there is nothing wrong with the Warm white and NW. It simply just telling you they have more red and green spectrum compare to the CW. In fact, I would strongly suggest use warm white and NW rather than just CW. The kelvin reading for the light is not just base on the any specific LED, it is the overall balance with all LED calculate together. If you have about 30% WW and NW but 70% Royal blue, you are looking at a range between 14000K to 20000K. I also don't think the WW or NW is the reason that those people has algae.
The blue spectrum actually helps algae grow also.

The WW and NW If using correct combination would provide a more vivid coloration to human eyes instead of pure blue.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:31 AM   #79
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Do the typical taotronics have two power cords to hook them up to two timers?

I have seen 2 cords, I also have seen 1 cord.
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:22 AM   #80
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there is nothing wrong with the Warm white and NW. It simply just telling you they have more red and green spectrum compare to the CW. In fact, I would strongly suggest use warm white and NW rather than just CW. The kelvin reading for the light is not just base on the any specific LED, it is the overall balance with all LED calculate together. If you have about 30% WW and NW but 70% Royal blue, you are looking at a range between 14000K to 20000K. I also don't think the WW or NW is the reason that those people has algae.
The blue spectrum actually helps algae grow also.

The WW and NW If using correct combination would provide a more vivid coloration to human eyes instead of pure blue.
Take a look at reef breeder 120watt dimmable for 179. Let me know what you think the chart really helps to understand different colors. There full intensity reading is 14000k meaning at lower setting it would be less? what about the yellow look will it have that with the other colors?thanks
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