Moving a Tank---Keep the sand?

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Aquaman99

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
May 12, 2010
Messages
48
Location
Kansas City
Hello,

I've purchased an existing FOWLR system. I'm curious as to what I should do about keeping the sand. I've seen articles on line that are for keeping to other that suggest only keeping some.

I thought I'd poll the community here to get your thoughts.

My main concern with keeping the existing sand is that when I set the tank back up, I'm sure the water will be very "cloudy" for some time.

Do I need to make sure the water is 100% clear before adding the livestock back in?

I plan on putting the fish in a cooler and having an aerator and heater running in it, but I'm not sure how long the fish can survive in that environment. If it's been a few hours and the water is still a bit cloudy, can I put the fish in it if the other water qualities are appropriate?

Thanks!
 
i would ditch the sand. if the tank is over 6 months old, stirring up the sand is going to cause a spike, and might kill the fish.
you can keep the sand if you wash it out real good until the water that comes out of it is mostly clear, then it should not cause an issue.

i would make up enough water to completely change it if need be.
put everything including the rock, in bins with a heater and powerhead.
now i'm not saying to transport the fish and rock in the same cooler, because that could be dangerous, but i mean to say to treat the rock as you would the fish.
the rock holds the necessary bacteria to sustain the fish bio load, and keeping it submerged while you do the move will ensure it's survival.
 
What kind of fish are we talking about? Once you get the fish home you could actually leave the fish in the cooler for a while. I would put a couple pieces of live rock in the cooler to help keep the ammonia in check. And check it AND your DT for a couple of days to see if you get an ammonia spike in either. Of course if you get a spike in the cooler with the fish, you would need to do a PWC. And if you get one in the DT you would need to allow it to cycle out. IMO
 
i don't think that's going to work. the entire tank was the surface area for the bio load, and now you are saying that just a couple pieces of rock will do the same job. i don't think this is accurate. by the time you see the ammonia in the cooler, damage will have been done.if you value these fish, you will need all of the rock from the original tank, and maybe even then, without the glass surfaces, and the substrate, you might see a spike.
i would get the livestock back in the tank with all of the rock as soon as possible.
it doesn't really matter what kind of fish that came out of the tank, as long as they go back into a system that can support them as soon as possible.
 
Well you're both correct. The fish can survive in a tub or trash container with some LR, a PH and a heater. It will require regular (daily) PWC's to keep the parameters in check. No different than setting up a hospital or QT tank on short notice.

I would ditch all but a few pounds of the sand. That would be used for seeding the new sand in the tank. It will be cloudy until the bacteria develp and coat the new sand making it heavy enough to settle.
 
Thanks for the tips.

The tanks contains a blue tang, mandarin goby, rainbow angel, chocolate-chip star fish and a spiny starfish. I'll have them in a decent sized cooler and put some LR in the tank to help with keeping the ammonia in check.

The location I am picking up the tank in is 1 hour away. I'm hoping to keep the fish in the cooler for less than 6 hours. I figure that will be enough time to move the tank, get it set back up and get the water in good enough condition to add the fish back to it within a decent amount of time. I've got plenty of help, so we'll see how long it takes.

I'm planning on keeping as much of the existing tank water as possible in hopes that will prevent the tank from cycling and having some premixed saltwater standing by to top off the tank.

Any other tips of moving a tank would be great. I think I'm pretty well versed on it as I spent quite a bit of time researching it online.
 
keeping the water will not stop a cycle.
bacteria resides mostly on surfaces. you aren't bringing any by saving water. the reason you would save the water is that it has the correct parameters the fish are used to.
i think the key here is keeping the rock submerged during the transport.
 
sand is annoying, i found out the hard way. it do make the tank look a lot better but its hard to clean when all u do is suck up the sand while ur sucking up waste.
 
A clean up crew should keep the sand bed clean enough that you would not have any waste to vaccum out.
 
i have never vacuumed a sand bed in a SW tank. i think adequate flow is the key to keeping the sand bed clean. keeping detritus suspended long enough for your filtration to remove it.
 
A clean up crew consists of a variety of snails a/o hermit crabs; possbily a Serpent Sea Star, fighting conch, possibly a Tiger Tail Cucumber, peppermint shrimp.

There's a variety to choose from. You may want to contact some of our sponsors (John Maloney at reefcleaners.org) or LiveAquaria; or almost any retailer selling livestock.

That said, I prefer a clawless tank (no hermits or other crabs).

Here's my snail info gathered from several sources:
Nassarius Snails - Nassarius spp. They mostly stay in the sand, but will sometimes make short trips up the glass. They are mainly detritus eaters and do an excellent job cleaning and shifting the sand. These are also some of the most hardy snails available. They can flip themselves upright very easily. They are fun to watch as they come bursting out of the sand bed at feeding time.
Onyx Nassarius -Ilyanassa spp. (Black Mud Snail, Black Nassarius Snail ) snails are very good at keeping sand beds completely clean of algae as well as other organics. They may occasionally strip a sand bed of enough nutrients that there will be none left to support copepod or amphipod populations. If you keep dragonets (e.g. Mandarins) that rely on healthy populations of copepods and amphipods do not get these. They are also a cooler water species and may not last that long in higer temp tanks like reef tanks.

Cerith Snails-Cerithium spp. (Cortez) - Good algae and detritus eaters that forage rock, glass, and sand. Some can pick themselves up and some cant.
Cerith Snails (White)- Good algae and detritus eaters that seem to stay in the sand more than the cortez, but can be found on the rock and glass. Once again, some can pick themselves up and others cant. These are good sand bed snails.

Fighting Conchs - Strombus gibberulus. Little vacuum cleaners. One per 2 sq. ft. of sand. They'll eat diatoms and, sometimes, cyano. Get one per 2 sq. feet of tank is what was recommened to me. They tend to disappear behind the rocks for a few days then come back around to the front again. They usually dont get flipped over, but if they do, they can kick around and turn themselves back upright.They very hardy too.

Astrea Snails -Astraea tecta: Most common of all saltwater tank snails. They are excellent algae eaters and will forage all over the rock, sand, and glass. These guys fall very easily, can not right themselves, and then die.

Margarita Snail - Margarites pupillus. (Stomatella Limpet Snail, Pearl Snail, Little Margarite Snail, Pearly Topped Snail ) Another snail to add to the algae eating aresnal. Will cruise around on the rock and glass.

Nerite Snails - Nerita spp. Mostly a rock and glass snail that are all about the algae. They may crawl above the water line of your tank as they often become exposed in the wild during low tide. Mine usually end up in the sump where they can get above the water line and come back down when they want to.

Turbo Snails : They are big and clumsy. They'll knock over or move anything that isn't glued/nailed down. Actually I had one knock a coral frag that was glued to a a plug right off the plug. But, they will attack hair algea. Mine are now escargot size and I moved them to the sump because they were always knocking corals off the rock and plugs they were attached to.

Banded Trochus - Trochus spp. (Tiger Trochus Snail, Banded Trochus Snail, Black and White Snail, Spiral-Top Snail ) Algae eating machines. Ideal size, won't knock over corals/rock, and can move very fast. Will also eat hair algae.

Stomatella Snails : Will breed in your tank! You will only need to get 4 or 5. They're great algae eaters and stay very small.

Queen Conch - Strombus gigas
Red Moon Snails : Cold water species.
Bumble-bee snails : Carnivorous. Not very hardy. Marginal algae eaters, but more of a detritus grazer. They can prey on other snails and sand bed critters

Peppermint Shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni complex)

Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis)

Sally Light Foot Crab - Percnon gibbesi Another crab which will help battle your algae.
 
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