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Old 05-02-2010, 05:07 PM   #11
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You don't need treated lumber for a stand. Dimensional lumber is more than strong enough (spruce pine fir 2 x 4 etc.)) Oak is much stronger than softwoods and very resistant to rot, hence it's use in boat building. Do use waterproof glue.
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Old 05-02-2010, 05:22 PM   #12
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If you build it right, the wood will support all the weight no need for any glue, just 3" wood screws. Oak is a hardwood, the most sturdy furniture in the world is made of oak, as well as the best wood constructed watercraft.
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Old 05-07-2010, 11:12 AM   #13
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If you build it right, the wood will support all the weight no need for any glue, just 3" wood screws.
I thought when building things out of wood, the glue was the "device" that actually held the wood together, and the fasteners (I.E. screws, nails) were there simply to allow the glue to dry without the boards moving?
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Old 05-07-2010, 11:31 AM   #14
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A real furniture maker will tell you that glue (and proper joinery) is the ONLY way to build something to last.Nails, screws, etc. will eventually loosen, although not for years, perhaps.

Oak is prob the strongest hardwood commonly available. Solid oak furniture lasts generations. (We have a 50+ year old school chair that was abused in an elementary school for years & still going strong.)

For an aquarium stand, it really is the design & construction that is important. Wood species doesn't matter all that much, even pine & other softwood will work. But do avoid any particle board construction. That is sure to disintegrate over time. <Note that "oak" stand in a lfs may well be particle board covered with veneer ... sometime not even that .. just plastic coated particle board printed to look like oak.>
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Old 05-07-2010, 11:46 AM   #15
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I thought when building things out of wood, the glue was the "device" that actually held the wood together, and the fasteners (I.E. screws, nails) were there simply to allow the glue to dry without the boards moving?

not really, I dont use adhesives unless its nessecary, clamps will keep it from moving while you fasten it together. it does offer extra insurance but it doesnt require it. screws loosen with movement, no movement no loosen.
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Old 05-10-2010, 01:01 AM   #16
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if you can get pin-oak get it, just buy extra cutting blades....................... LOL

see this

Janka hardness

pin- not the hardest but good luck finding others lol

Janka Hardness Scale
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Old 05-11-2010, 01:05 AM   #17
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if you can get pin-oak get it, just buy extra cutting blades....................... LOL
Nah ... just use a good quality carbide tipped blade.
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Old 05-11-2010, 01:34 AM   #18
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I am going to be building an oak stand also. I plan on using some solid oak for my faceframe, and 3/4" oak plywood for the sides and back. I dont see how this couldnt be strong enough. I think the 2X4 are overkill IMHO. I might start a new thread just to have people post pictures of their oak stands so I can get an idea how I want to build mine.
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Old 05-15-2010, 06:58 PM   #19
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not really, I dont use adhesives unless its nessecary, clamps will keep it from moving while you fasten it together. it does offer extra insurance but it doesnt require it. screws loosen with movement, no movement no loosen.
It is not true that with no movement there is no loosening.Wood changes with season and humidity. Good example is the loosening of drywall screws. Screws use clamping pressure to hold a joint together. The use of glue will make for a more rigid structure.
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Old 05-15-2010, 08:04 PM   #20
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I used kiln dried 2x4 to build my stands. If properly constructed the screws will hold, as they have for the last 20+ years. I do use a drill and counter sink so the deck screw head is flush. I agree with WhiteDevil "screws loosen with movement, no movement no loosen." Also I use 3/4" plywood for the top and the shelf.
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