odno flourescent setup ?'s

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greatgman

Aquarium Advice Freak
Joined
Sep 23, 2004
Messages
342
Location
washington pa.
hi all
my setup is this :
1 t8 shop light fitted with 2 advance 4 bulb ballasts
2 phillips 48" deluxe daylight tubes
i have a new identical shop light (unmodified)
1 t10 true atnic 48"tube
and 1 48" hivision tube (f32t8/tll741 phillips )

here is the question

should i modify the shop light to overdrive the atnic
but leave the hivision alone (not overdrive it)
or overdrive both the tubes on the new shop light and get another atnic tube?
(2 overdriven atnics)

do you finneads out there think that a single od atnic would shock (stress) the fish in the morning ?

turn on schedule
630 am 1 od atnic on
700 am 2 od atnic on
800 am 1 od daylight on
900 am 2 od daylight on

what about a 50/50 with the atnic (od)? :?
 
buy a 4 bulb electronic ballast and couple it into 1 bulb
2 overdriven t8's will put out more light than 4 t 12 bulbs

2 t8's will give you about 12000 k
or more i dont know if it is 6500 k regular or 6500k over driven per tube
if it is 6500k normal (not od) than it is 12000 k for 2 tubes
if it is double that for od tubes
that would give me 24000 k for 2 od tubes

all for about 60 bucks

$46 for 2 4 bulb balasts
$5 for 2 daylight deluxe tubes at hd
8$ for shoplight at hd
 
If its a FO tank you may be fine but a Reef tank I would get some bulbs designed for SW fish tanks. The light spectrum is different for fish tanks then home use.
URI makes great bulbs that bring out the nice colors in the fish and corals. It gives them the needed light wavelength and spectrum.
The grow lights are fine for refugiums.
 
trust me they are plenty bright and white not yellowish tinted

do u think i should double up on the od atnics or
1 atnic od and 1 50/50 od?
 
Its not about being bright, it's about spectrum... If they are working for what you have then thats great..... I wish I could buy a $5 bulb for my tank.
All depends on the look you going for.... actinic give the nice purple tint to the tank, some like a lot some don't . I like the actinic look better then the 50/50, but thats JMO.
 
can u post a pic of the OD set up ..... I still did not follow what your doing. I may try this on my 55 fowlr.
the ballasts are sold sperate?
 
First of all, when you overdrive the lamps, you do not change the "K" value but you do change the light output value. i.e. lumen output.
I use nothing but NO lighting in all my tanks, but one tank has four NO lamps overdriven by an IceCap 660.
I buy Philips actinic 03 lamps, and GE Daylight Ultra lamps (actually they have repackaged and renamed this lamp now, I forget the new name. However the markings on the lamp itself are still the same, F40 SP65.
This GE lamp is a 6500K and the lumen output is 3050, much higher than the Philips Daylight lamps. )
I pair one GE 6500K and one Philips actinic 03 which results in a very pleasing white light, and causes colors like the green star polyps to show up very nice.
I forgot to mention that if you compare the spectral chart of the GE and compare it with the charts of the aquarium bulbs, they are almost identical. Same spikes and the same peak.
Another tip would be to check the prices of the Philips actinic 03 at your local hydroponic stores as I find them to be cheaper than most LFS's.
 
For me, color spectrum is only a perception thing and there really is no "correct" kelvin rating. The higher kelvin gives a more pleasing "white" light, up to a point, but for me, I dislike the appearance of a couple of 20,000K tanks I've seen.
As we are all different, we get many opinions on what looks better, e.g. 20,000K or 14,000K or whatever.
The corals do not "need" a specific kelvin, but the whiter light supposedly is more representative of the spectrum as one goes deeper on a reef.
Lighting is actually more intense for a given wattage, when the kelvin rating is lower.
I have kept a tank on nothing but warm white fluorescent for a couple of years with no discernable difference to the tanks running half daylight and half actinic.
 
greatgman.. how did your rig turn out long term?
rayjay.. if K isnt important.. then why would anyone really care about spending up 600% more cash for higer K bulbs? I dont like 20,000K much myself.. heck I like 6500K best.. LOL I want a prodomantely LPS tank.. everywere I read it seems I get mixed opinons or no strait answers about LPS.. do they need blue light at all? Steve_s might have already answered this but I think he was refering to soft coarls mostly, in another tread..
It seems like I woke you up by posting in this tread(I havnt seen you post here since Ive been a member, I guess you got emailed) you should search for ODNO on AA now and see if you have any oppinons on old threads on this subject, there is 13 pages of them now.. :p
seaham358.. did you look into ODNO? its been a wile..
 
greenmaji, I really don't know why people strive for a higher K other than the fact many have read that it is better for the corals. (this is an unsubstantiated fact)
Light intensity is more important to a coral that uses light, than the specific kelvin that the light source has, and the lower K source has higher lumen output.
Many of the oceans corals have adapted so that many species can survive at great depths as well as in shallow waters, even though the intensity varies greatly and the kelvin in shallow waters is lower than the kelvin received by the corals in deep water.
If you really look at posting about lighting and kelvin, you may notice that many times hobbyists don't use, or do use, a specific kelvin, because they "don't like" or, "do like" the look of their tank with specific lamps and specific kelvin ratings. For these people, it's the look of the tank that counts, as it does for me.
Others perceive a change in their corals when they change lamp sources to a different kelvin, but conversely, reports are also found whereby another hobbyist perceives the same changes when going the opposite way.
Would this be because the corals, even the same species, might be from different locations, or, in my thinking, would it be because of some other unknow reason that coincidentially happens at that time.
It's also possible that when changing to higher kelvin, one might experience the placebo effect, in that one is looking for a result after making a change, and then "sees" it.
I certainly don't have all the answers, and what I believe may not be always right, but I hope I always keep an open mind to all sides of a discussion so that when evidence suggests I'm wrong, that I'm able to correct my thoughts.
So far however, there is proof that light intensity is important for coral survival, (at least for those requiring light) but I have seen no documentation that says in general, corals "require" a specific kelvin.
 
My old FAMA magazines advertize the latest and greatest K rating of there new MH outfit to be.. ta da da! 5,000 wopping K! :p
now its worked it way all the way up to 20,000K and slowly coming back down some to 14,000K being what is "desired" in MH bulbs..
this makes me think that I could use nothing but daylight lamps (6,500K) on a ODNO outfit and If I think its a little too yellow, I dont get this one because they look blue/white to me I MUST be color blind or my kitchen absorbs yellow light ROFL, I could use a mostly useless, as far as symbiotic algae growth goes, 03 bulb in the mix.
it just occured to me that MH 6500 bulbs are yellow, NO are not IME heck Ive got two in my kitchen right now and they are blue/white as can be. nothing like the 6500K MH tank pictures Ive seen.
your thoughts on the subject keep me hopefull that Im not nuts.. :mrgreen: thanks.
my tank is a 75 gallon.. and Ive got four 4-F32T8 ballasts comming in the mail soon.. not bad for 48 bucks on ebay :p that will crank out about the same number of lummens as a 440 VHO setup.. ahh that will be nice.. :p
 
currently on my 90 gall
i have 2 36 "shoplight fixtures
2 10k
2 03 actnics
both lights are overdriven
the tank is plenty bright
algae is no longer a prob
 
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