Orbit Marine LEDs

[NicoC16]

I have been running Orbit Marine LED's over my 30 gallon long reef tank and my corals have been struggling for quite some time now (not opening, growing, etc.). I was wondering if just running one 24-36" light strip over my 30" long by 20" deep tank would be enough. All of my soft corals are doing fine along with my duncan coral. My euphyllias are closed up quite a bit and look pathetic. I am thinking this light cannot produce the PAR my tank needs to foster LPS coral. My LPS pieces are placed in the middle to top of my tank and are receiving moderate to low water flow. I have been doing weekly water changes to get rid of the hair algae outbreak I have been having. At first, I attributed the excess phosphate in the tank to be disturbing my corals, but I have been wondering if these lights become useless after 2 years and need to be replace/upgraded. I am aware that old T5 and compact fluorescent bulbs begin to lean towards the red spectrum once they have been exhausted, but does this same condition occur in old LED lights. I am highly thinking about upgrading to some Ecotech Marine Radions because they're 10% off right now, and as they would give me a great PAR reading and customization of color. My current lights can be controlled, but I have them cranked up almost all of the way, yet my corals still don't respond well.

Thanks for any help.

 

[Sniperhank]

LED diodes have a life span of 10 years, at least. Though I'm a big fan of Ecotech products, I don't think changing the lighting out will be a solution towards the issue at hand.
I have two different hammers in my reef at this moment. When the one starts to retract some, it tells me one of two things. Either the flow pattern changed and it isn't happy, which happens at one point during my flow cycle, or the nitrates are climbing and it is the end of the week...which means it is water change day! When I look at your system, I see several indicators of this being an issue at hand that will need addressed.
That said, if you want to upgrade your lights so you can support more light intensive livestock then so be it. But along with that typically the more light intensive corals don't like nitrates or phosphates, which is something your system is still struggling with.

 

[NicoC16]

Would you recommend Mr. Saltwater Tank's No Nonsense Guide To Preventing And Curing Nuisance Algae Outbreaks for my issue?

 

[Sniperhank]

I'm not familiar with his guide, but I have two articles linked to battling algae in my signature.
It is a frustrating process, but simple. Manual removal along with lowering the nitrate/phosphates already present in the system via water changes, filter media, or in drastic issues liquid reducers. One can also limit the light source some as well...but you'll learn all that from the articles linked.

 

[Reefing Madness]

Iron Oxide Hydroxide (GFO) Phosphate Binders by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
Foiling Phosphate | Coral Magazine

Vodka Dosing by 'Genetics' and 'Stony_Corals' - Reefkeeping.com
Reefkeeping Magazine - Vinegar Dosing Methodology for the Marine Aquarium

 

[Beej1254]

I have the Orbit Marine 36" models over my 110 gal 2' tall tank. Although I only have Zoas in my tank as far as corals go they really seem to love it. Even when the LEDs are on 10% power my corals open up. Everything is growing and spreading (although not fast). I will also say that my Zoas show beautiful colors and are great to look at.

I'm with Hank on this one. Everything I've read says LEDs should last quite some time and the diodes shouldn't shift in spectrum at all. The Orbits are lower watt per led though. it is very important to make sure all of your bases are covered. I had some spots of Cyanobacteria growing on rocks which better powerhead placement and manual scrapping and siphoning took care of. After that I started a different feeding schedule with better food and everything's cleared up.

 

[zeeGGee]

I have the Orbit Marine 36" models over my 110 gal 2' tall tank. Although I only have Zoas in my tank as far as corals go they really seem to love it. Even when the LEDs are on 10% power my corals open up. Everything is growing and spreading (although not fast). I will also say that my Zoas show beautiful colors and are great to look at.

I'm with Hank on this one. Everything I've read says LEDs should last quite some time and the diodes shouldn't shift in spectrum at all. The Orbits are lower watt per led though. it is very important to make sure all of your bases are covered. I had some spots of Cyanobacteria growing on rocks which better powerhead placement and manual scrapping and siphoning took care of. After that I started a different feeding schedule with better food and everything's cleared up.

hi! what setting are you using for your orbit marine led? how many % for blue and white? thanks!

 

[NicoC16]

Thanks for the help, but I think I've already figured out the issues I had with my tank. I decided to upgrade my lights to EcoTech Marine Radion LEDS and my pump to a Vortech MP10 which have made all the difference. From the picture at the beginning of this thread to now, I have learned a great deal about water quality issues.

 

[zeeGGee]

Thanks for the help, but I think I've already figured out the issues I had with my tank. I decided to upgrade my lights to EcoTech Marine Radion LEDS and my pump to a Vortech MP10 which have made all the difference. From the picture at the beginning of this thread to now, I have learned a great deal about water quality issues.

Nice..just curious, what % of blue and white were you using for Orbit Marine Led?

 

[NicoC16]

Honestly I do not remember, since it's been almost a year since I made the switch. What I can say is that ever since I started running GFO and carbon, I have been able to reduce the light intensity on my lights since the light is able to more effectively penetrate through the water.

 

[zeeGGee]

I see..Thanks again for the quick response. [emoji4]


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