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Old 04-26-2007, 09:02 AM   #1
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overflow on new 120 making LOTS of bubbles

Here is the setup and the resultant mess caused by the bubbles (it's much worse than the photo shows... in just a few hours the lights were covered in salt from the spray and the salt creep will be h-o-r-r-i-b-l-e if this continues). What am I doing wrong?

Also: what is the small plastic tube for (red circle)?

Also: the holes marked by the blue circle (one on each side) seem to be the source of the air... water level begins above the holes, then lowers, sucks in air, rises, repeat.

Then again: when the water is above the holes marked with the blue circle, the plastic tube marked by the red circle sucks in air.

Thanks.
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Old 04-26-2007, 10:53 AM   #2
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Circled in red is an air release valve. I'd replace with a durso standpipe
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Old 04-26-2007, 10:54 AM   #3
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I can't tell because of all the turbulence, but does your drain pipe end above or below the surface of the water in your sump? If it is above, you should probably put it below to minimize the turbulence. Also, if it is below, perhaps an elbow would help so that the water will "flow" more instead of just colliding with the base of the sump (just my .02, since i don't even have a sump yet )

I am not really sure what the holes that you highlighted in blue are for, but I think the red ones are to help remove air from the standpipe. Not sure what help there is for the air intake issue, someone with more experience will have to help you there...sorry.
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:23 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tecwzrd
Circled in red is an air release valve. I'd replace with a durso standpipe
"Air release" suggests to me that air should be coming out of this tube... instead it is being sucked in. Is this correct?
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:29 AM   #5
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The hole at top is to keep your overflow level from fluctuating/flushing and acts as a vent hole but from the looks of it is too close to the actual flow to work properly. Is this the standard standpipe that came with the overflow or did you mod it?
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Old 04-26-2007, 03:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tecwzrd
The hole at top is to keep your overflow level from fluctuating/flushing and acts as a vent hole but from the looks of it is too close to the actual flow to work properly. Is this the standard standpipe that came with the overflow or did you mod it?
Standard...

I understand what you're saying, but not what I should do

Thanks for the continued help.
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Old 04-26-2007, 03:25 PM   #7
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Is this for a 90 gal you mentioned in this post?

Did you get that system with the Mag 9.5? One overflow is typically rated for 600-800 GPH and the Mag 9.5 does 800 GPH with a 4ft head so you may be pushing the limits of the overflow. Is a ball valve installed on the return line from the pump and have you tried reducing it slightly to see if it helps?
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Old 04-27-2007, 02:55 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tecwzrd
Is this for a 90 gal you mentioned in this post?

Did you get that system with the Mag 9.5? One overflow is typically rated for 600-800 GPH and the Mag 9.5 does 800 GPH with a 4ft head so you may be pushing the limits of the overflow. Is a ball valve installed on the return line from the pump and have you tried reducing it slightly to see if it helps?
It's actually a 120 gal (4 x 2 x 2). I just used the 90 in that other post as as example of the type of overflow I was looking at.

The pump currently on the system is a Mag Model 18... I picked it up for next to nothing so I just went ahead with it. If I open the valve 100%, the air being sucked down gets MUCH worse. If I partially close the valve, it lessens but is still bad.

Thanks.
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Old 04-27-2007, 09:52 AM   #9
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I suspect the Mag 18 is a bit too much for the overflow to handle well. With 1375 GPH with a 4ft head and I assume you have dual overflows it's probably best if you restrict the flow a little more.

The durso standpipe does help to both reduce noise and bubbles IME and you may also want to consider installing it.

Bubbles will never be completely eliminated due to the downward force of water rushing but as long as your output tube isn't more than 2" in the water in the sump it still should easily be controlled using baffles so they don't make it into the tank.
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