Placement for Powerhead(s) & Bio Wheel Filter

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TheChad

Aquarium Advice FINatic
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
568
Location
Warrensburg, IL
Hey all,


As some of you have suggested, I purchased a PowerHead, and i purchased a Bio Wheel, which I know some have given +'s and some have given -'s, But i think it'll be ok.


Is there a best place to put thease devices? Does it matter where they go, or will they both do their jobs anywhere they are placed?


Right now I have my heater in the center along the back of the tank, I figured that was the best place to distribute the heat eavenly in the tank.

My UGF has 2 tubes right now they are at the outside positions, the UGF also has 2 positions in the middle of the tank right next to each other.

I only purchase 1 Powerhead with a 170GPH flow rate for my 29 gal tank. Should I have 2, or is one enough? and in what position should the powerhead be placed?

Thanks,

-TheChad
 
dont use the ugf, and the recommended turnover is 10 to 15 times the tank volume. so somewhere between 290 and 435 gph. i have read to place the ph's at the back corners and face them towards the front center. not that i am an expert, but i have been doing a ton of reading.
 
also dont use the wheel part of the biowheel. it only is a gathering spot for nitrates.
 
Well the Bio Wheel filter does 150GPH, and the powerhead does 170GPH, so that it 320GPH.

So that should be good right?


So if I do only need 1 PH, and the Bio Whell Filter, Where should each of them be placed? Should the filter be placed on one end, and the PH on the other?

Thanks,

-TheChad
 
Personally I wouldn’t remove the bio-wheel if that’s your only source of biological filtration. If you have 1+ lbs per gal of lr then you can do away with the bio-wheel once your lr is established after a couple of months. Removing it without lr or before your lr becomes biological will cause you nh3/no2 problems.

I’ve been using the Magnum canister filters for over 8 years now and have kept my no3 at <5 ppm by just doing regular 10+% pwc each week. I don’t think it’s so much the bio-wheel that creates the no3 but from people not doing proper maintenance by cleaning the filter in the canister. The whole point of the bio-wheel is to create bacteria that completes the nitrogen cycle. Anyone can create excessive no3 levels by overfeeding/overcrowding your tank and not keeping up with general maintenance. As long as you don’t do that it shouldn’t be an issue. The bio-wheel can only create no3 from the nh3/no2 it receives from the tank. It’s not like it’s going to create no3 from thin air :roll:

You don’t have the canister but you do have the hob unit and as long as you replace the ac filter on a regular basis you shouldn’t have any excessive detritus that can build up and lead to higher no3 levels.

Your one ph should be ok along with the hob.
 
Cool thanks tecwzrd.

I got the BIO wheel installed and running today, by tomarrow I should have the Powerhead going too.

Just a quick question for the Bio Wheel Filter... There is a "mid-level instake strainer" that has a gate on it, should I leave that open or closed?


Thanks,

-TheChad
 
I have the same filter, from what i could tell I believe it has to do with how much water flow and or where you want it to suck the debrie and water from ie bottom only (gate closed) or mid level and bottom level (gate open) or anywhere in between (gate partially open) I stress to you this is just a guess though, im curious myself
 
Powerheads, and all current outputs from filters should be arranged with the goal of minimizing "dead spots" in the tank. This will help to prevent nuisance cyanobacteria which most inevitably encounter with a young system. Make sure you have enough current, as long as sand isn't flying all over the place and your fish aren't struggling terribly I'd say you can't have too much current IMO.

-dave-
 
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