Pump suggestions

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Coyne

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Mar 24, 2013
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1,524
Location
Carpentersville, IL
I'll be setting up an RODI system soon and will be storing the water in a 55 gallon drum before using it for water changes.
This is the first time I won't be performing WCs from the tap and I'm not sure what I'll need.
I'm hoping for some suggestions for what kind of pump I'll need to get the water from the barrel to the aquariums.
I'm also hoping to be able to use the pump to sort of circulate the water in the barrel prior to WCs to make sure it's mixed well, oxygenated and evenly heated (if possible).

I plan on using some sort of valve to stop the water flow from the hose as I move from tank to tank. Will the back pressure cause any damage to the pump?

If you've got a set up like this, then I'd love to hear about the make and model with which you've had the best success. This will be for fresh water aquariums, if that's a factor.
 
I am looking at doing something like this as well, but don't have any info as yet.

My idea is to have a rolling ring for a trash can (new) and use proper temp water to fill up the can and roll it to the tanks to add the water back into the tank for the pwc.

I know some people use a heater in the storage water so it is ready to go.
 
I have a 600 gph and 350 gph pond pump in my water barrel, a cheap sunsun powerhead will be fine for circulation, I use an airstone, had it laying around. All cab be found on Amazon for a reasonable price. Marineland poweheads work too depending on the lift and distance, they're very affordable. I run a heater as well.
 
I don't know enough about these pumps. Is there any risk of damage to the pump if I restrict or stop the flow at the output end of the hose?
 
How? I pinch the end when I'm moving around with it. Just a don't run them dry??
 
I'll thinking of putting a valve of some kind at the end and, I wasn't sure if they would get damaged by back pressure the way an air pump can.
 
I wouldn't do a valve, an electric shut off would be better imo, I simply have a power strip I flick on/off. The valve may cause bursting or disconnection.
 
Thats a bummer to hear. Mine will be on a power strip next to the barrel too. It'll just be a tad tricky for me to be standing next to the tank waiting for it to be filled to where I want it and then sprint down to the barrel to hit the power switch. Ive got a feeling that either the tank wont be filled enough or I'll end up with some spillage.
Maybe once I figure out what size pump I want/need, I can play around with some hose clamps to prevent pressure from popping them off. Perhaps a partially open two-way valve at the barrel (one leading back into the barrel) would be a solution too.
Still... cant do any of this until I figure out what sized pump to get.
 
You run an extension cord to the pump and have the power strip in your left hand;) no running involved
 
:lol: This is becoming less convenient by the minute. :lol:
Anything else I can string through my house my house (and then coil up later) once a week? :ROFLMAO:
I appreciate the suggestion, but Im not doing that. :whistle:
The more I think about it, the more I like my ball valve idea as a solution to the back pressure problem. As with most of my bright ideas, Im sure Im missing some important element that will become evident later. :angel:
 
It's your gear, they're not designed for that use. Use premium hose clamps at every connection. Another thought while im typing.. You could look into a pressure rated bypass valve, that way when you close the valve the water will just pump into the bucket and will not stress the hose, pump or connections.. yah.. do that ;)
 
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