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Old 06-15-2009, 04:09 PM   #11
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wow, all 3 LFS here had for about the same at 190, I got it cause I went with the cheaper isnt better theroy and figured the extra $ would have got me something better.
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Old 06-15-2009, 05:10 PM   #12
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Pondmaster (notice the comment about the seal/oil leach) Pond & Fountain Pumps: Pondmaster Mag-Drive Pumps
'Motor is epoxy filled, preventing the possibility of water getting in, or oil from leaching into the pond.'

Non-Pond : Mag Drive Pumps
'The pump is magnetically driven - it has no seals to wear and contains no oil.'

Not a biggie, just pointing out the difference..
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:23 PM   #13
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wow, all 3 LFS here had for about the same at 190, I got it cause I went with the cheaper isnt better theroy and figured the extra $ would have got me something better.
IMO, getting a new pump or an overflow rated for the pump is the answer not restricting the return with a valve which would cause the pump to run hotter and burnout sooner. Another possible problem would be cavitation which would throw tons of bubbles into the tank which is all bad.
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:51 AM   #14
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God Bless if you were to find the exact pump to go with your overflow at the exact head height using the exact amount of piping and connectors to even everything out. I venture to guess many don't.
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Old 06-16-2009, 09:17 AM   #15
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IMO, getting a new pump or an overflow rated for the pump is the answer not restricting the return with a valve which would cause the pump to run hotter and burnout sooner. Another possible problem would be cavitation which would throw tons of bubbles into the tank which is all bad.
Just to clarify....

Placing a valve on the discharge of a pump would only cause stress to the pump if you pinched it so far closed that almost no water is being moved. In fact, throttling a pump back (to some extent) makes it do less work, causing it to use less power.

Cavitation happens in high to low pressure transitions. Again, you would have to have this pump cut so far back that it is moving only a slight amount of water compared to it's rating. Even then I somewhat doubt that these little pumps can produce enough velocity through a valve to cause cavitation.

Using a valve on the discharge of a pump is done quite often, especially in this hobby.
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Old 06-16-2009, 10:10 AM   #16
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God Bless if you were to find the exact pump to go with your overflow at the exact head height using the exact amount of piping and connectors to even everything out. I venture to guess many don't.
If your overflow is big enough then you can use the valves on the supply side to control the amount of flow through the sump without restricting the return side and stressing the pump.
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Old 06-16-2009, 10:16 AM   #17
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IMO, getting a new pump or an overflow rated for the pump is the answer not restricting the return with a valve which would cause the pump to run hotter and burnout sooner. Another possible problem would be cavitation which would throw tons of bubbles into the tank which is all bad.
While that's always an option as long as it's a non drilled tank (which this is; not drilled), that's not exactly the advice I was commenting on.

Enjoy
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Old 06-16-2009, 10:19 AM   #18
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Just to clarify....

Placing a valve on the discharge of a pump would only cause stress to the pump if you pinched it so far closed that almost no water is being moved. In fact, throttling a pump back (to some extent) makes it do less work, causing it to use less power.

Cavitation happens in high to low pressure transitions. Again, you would have to have this pump cut so far back that it is moving only a slight amount of water compared to it's rating. Even then I somewhat doubt that these little pumps can produce enough velocity through a valve to cause cavitation.

Using a valve on the discharge of a pump is done quite often, especially in this hobby.
Unless the pump is of variable speed via an external controller it will run at 100 percent no matter what, and as far as saving power that is highly unlikely unless you are using some sort of variable frequency drive (Only for AC current motors) to adjust the frequency (will save you money) not a resistive load which controls the voltage and only distributes load from the motor to the resistive load hense still using the same amount of power
but is now distributed between two devices. I understand that valves are used often on the discharge side but really shouldnt be used to control the flow.
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Old 06-16-2009, 10:38 AM   #19
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if your pump is too strong, T off of it with an extra line going back to the front side of your sump with a valve to adjust the flow. It will allow you cheaply fix your problem as well as give your sump more flow. There is no need to do anything electonically complicated.
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Old 06-16-2009, 10:41 AM   #20
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IMO throttling back a pump is no different than using more head hight, as long as your not closing the valve too much. As I stated before you could add a "T" fitting using the Valve to restrict a return line back into the sump.
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