Purigen regen, cheaper Prime alternative

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Linwood

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Jun 25, 2014
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Did a regen on my 3 purigen packets last weekend. Interesting.

When it was time to soak in Prime, the instructions did not say how much, just how much per cup -- so I used one cup per bag.

Which took half a medium sized bottle of prime. Which was kind of pricey, well, compared to chlorine.

I've converted most of my supplies to dry bulk "stuff", fertilizer, buffers, etc.

Is there a cheap alternative to prime, for regeneration of purigen (I use RODI water so I don't need it for anything else).

On a related note, I was very surprised by this process. After the Prime soak, with their nebuluous "buffer" statement, I just used mixed tank water (not yet in the tank). And it STANK. I had to soak it outside. Not even sure what the smell was, but ugly (NOT chlorine, I think a sulfur derivative). And I tested the PH and it was extremely low, so I changed the water in it repeatedly, then started adding baking soda in huge quantities until I could put the packets into tank water without the PH plummeting. Which I'm not sure was right, but...

Anyone else actually test the water with a purigen packet before putting it back in the tank?
 
From http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Purigen.html

Regeneration: Soak in a 1:1 bleach:water solution for 24 hours in a non-metallic container in a well ventilated area and away from children. Use regular 8.25% hypochlorite household bleach (non-scented, no dyes, do not use a splash-less bleach). Rinse well, then soak for 8 hours with a solution containing 4 tablespoons of Prime®, or equivalent dechlorinator per cup of water. Rinse well. For freshwater use, soak for 4 hours with a solution containing 2 tablespoon of buffer per cup of water (Discus Buffer®, Neutral Regulator®). Original color and full activity should now be restored and Purigen® is ready for reuse. Caution: some slime coat products may permanently foul Purigen® and render regeneration difficult. Do not reuse if odor of bleach/chlorine is detectable. In case of doubt, soak beads in small quantity of water and test for residual chlorine with a chlorine test kit.
 
Thank you, I've read the web page. I'm not sure what aspect of my question you are addressing. Did you know of a cheap dechlorinator in bulk?
 
I use seachem.safe for the purigen recharges.. lot cheapah!!

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I don't use purigen but now I am curious about the regenerating. Do you just soak it in prime?

what do they mean by this

"For freshwater use, soak for 4 hours with a solution containing 2 tablespoon of buffer per cup of water (Discus Buffer®, Neutral Regulator®)"
 
I don't use purigen but now I am curious about the regenerating. Do you just soak it in prime?

what do they mean by this

"For freshwater use, soak for 4 hours with a solution containing 2 tablespoon of buffer per cup of water (Discus Buffer®, Neutral Regulator®)"

It's kind of covered above, but what I last did was:

Soak 24 hours in 1:1 clorox/water mix.

Soak 4 hours in tap water with prime added as above.

Soak (in my case) about 24 hours in water containing a lot of alkaline buffer (baking soda), changing it a few times.
 
Sodium thiosulphite is readily available and quite inexpensive. Just do a search and lots of possibilities will come up.
As to the 8.25% bleach, where would one get that? Most household bleaches are 5% and the bargain brands even lower, sometimes below 4%.
 
yea I just don't get what the point of using the buffer is

I'm not clear on that either. There is a lot of historical postings when they recommended it be soaked in "acid buffer" first, to lower the PH. Then they dropped that recommendation generally, as people complained it left it soaked in acidic something which lowered tank ph.

I just soaked it in new tank water, which contains a buffer in my case at dKH=4. And found the ph really, really low, as the regen + purigen in some way lowered it. So I changed water several times until it acted more normal.

What I had never done was test a fresh purigen packet in a bit of water to see what (if anything) it did to PH.

This whole end-of-regeneration phase is a bit mysterious from their writings, but I figure if you douse anything in enough water it becomes OK. :huh:
 
Since I have been using Purigen for along time and regenerated well over 100 times and read more Purigen threads than I can remember maybe I can add my thoughts about Purigen and the regeneration process.

First off let me say I really love the product which I always purchase in the pre-bagged 100ml size (as compared to the loose stuff) and I always have a few 100ml bags soaking (always store wet after its been used) in a container with some Seachem Prime and Neutral Regulator in the water ready for use.


I just looked at my generic Chlorox Unscented Bleach bottle that I purchase at the Supermarket and it is 8.25% bleach so I am unclear what brands contain a lower percentage as noted by someone else.


I use the 100ml bags (which are rated at 100 gallons for six months) in my Eheim canister filters. I place one bag in each canister and since I have over a dozen canisters running that is a lot of bags that need to be regenerated during the year.


Remember that Purigen loses about 10% of its efficiency for each regeneration according to Seachem so it does have finite lifespan but I suppose that depends somewhat on how exhausted it is before each regeneration.


Purigen works best in a high water flow environment and does NOT remove Nitrates but removes the fresh organics in the water that will become Nitrates. I only mention this as many people that have high Nitrates already get frustrated when they put it in their system and it does not seem to have much effect. It works best in a system with low Nitrates to start with and then helps more from forming.


As Purigen 100ml bags get exhausted they turns tan and then a dark brown and if left in long enough actually hardens into clumps and then almost a solid brick. Obviously it is not doing much (if anything) by the time it gets that hard.


When it has been removed for regeneration rinse it off good (which might lighten it somewhat) and keep it wet until actual regeneration is attempted. Once it has been in use Seachem recommends never letting it dry out again.


Depending on how exhausted the Purigen 100ml bag is to start with determines how big of a plastic container I use for regeneration. I find that if the 100ml bag is really exhausted that I might have to go through the bleach step multiple times in a small container before I can get the Purigen totally regenerated back close to its original color. A small container seems to saturate out at some point and if I empty it out and start again the Purigen regeneration continues. I also try to remember to prod the 100ml bag with a blunt instrument (breaking up any clumps) and flip it through out the generation process so that all the internal beads get fluid contact.


Once I am satisfied that the Purigen 100ml bag is done regenerating I rinse it VERY good under the sink for a few minutes. Some people claim they rinse for as long at 15 minutes but that seems like overkill to me. At this point as you squeeze and rinse the Purigen bag you should NOT see any more tan or brown beads.


I have never personally tested the PH of a regenerated Purigen 100ml bag at this point but it is my understanding that the Bleach throws off the PH of the Purigen so it now needs to go through a Prime/Safe soaking to changes the PH or stop some chemical process started by the Bleach.


I personally use Seachem's directions once for each 100 ml bag so if I am doing two 100ml bags at this point I double their directions. After the 100ml bags have soaked for at least four hours (usually I do longer) I rinse them out VERY good again under the faucet.


Currently Seachem no longer notes a third Buffer step like it did for years earlier. This is because Purigen can retain this Buffering effect short term and cause issues in smaller tanks.


Originally Seachem recommended using one of their three PH Buffering products (Acid/Neutral/Akaline) at this point to finalize the regeneration process. You have to remember that a 100 ml bag is meant to treat a 100 gallon tank. If the PH Buffering of the Purigen at this point is incorrect and you place that 100ml bag is a very small system (20 gallons or less especially if the water has low buffering already) it can dramatically change the system's PH in a short period of time.


This is exactly what happened to some who complained in the Seachem forums years ago. They used an Acid buffer for the third step them immediately (more on that later) placed it in a 10 gallon system (which had a Akaline PH) and the PH plummeted and killed all their fish. Remember they were using 10 times the recommended the dose for this sized system. Seachem should have made clearer in their instructions that if you do a buffer step that you should use the appropriate PH buffer for the destination system.


Numerous people have noted before that the PH of the Purigen after the Prime (second) step rinse seems to change over the next 8-16 hours even without any Buffering. So its a good idea not to use it in a small system setup until it has rested for awhile.


Seachem seems to be of the opinion at this point that NO buffering step is better than an incorrect buffering step. Buffering should not really an issue for people with medium or larger tanks with buffers in the water already as the system can handle the short time that the Purigen is possibly off PH.


Personally I soak my Purigen 100ml bags in a strong Seachem Neutral Regulator solution as a third step just to give them Neutral PH for a few hours and then store them in container containing water with Prime and Neutral Regulator so they are all ready to go.


For those looking for a cheaper solution than using Seachem's liquid Prime product you can use their powdered Safe product. At one time it was very hard to locate online but now it seems to be more widely available. Safe is Drastically Cheaper to use as it is VERY concentrated but more finicky to dose.


Safe is NOT suppose to be pre-mixed and kept as it does NOT contain stabilizers like Prime and goes bad relatively fast. The bigger issue is because of its Very high concentrations you have be very careful about its very small dosages. Seachem has LOWERED its recommended Safe dosages by a factor of SIX in recent years so here are some current dosages.


030 gallons - 1/40 teaspoon
040 gallons - 1/33 teaspoon
065 gallons - 1/18 teaspoon
075 gallons - 1/16 teaspoon
125 gallons - 1/10 teaspoon


As with Prime you can supposedly safely overdose by a factor of 5 for system usage so these calculated dosages are approximate. For Purigen regeneration purposes you would use a VERY VERY small amount of Safe for the size containers I personally use.


Here is a link to the Seachem Safe product page if you want more information:
Seachem. Safe


Seachem's Support Forums are a valuable place to learn a lot more about all their products including Prime/Purigen/Safe and I have never had an unanswered question.
 
Why do you buy the 100 ml bag instead of the 500ml and "the bag"

Can you regenerate in "the bag"?

Thanks


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It is fine to regenerate in the bag. The bag is sealed so there is no alternative.
 
I bought the lose Purigen and the seachem bag that can be opened.

But I think i will just recharge in the bag next time. I lose too much transferring in and out of the bag


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