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06-29-2009, 10:43 PM
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#1
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: May 2009
Location: New York
Posts: 1,683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HN1
I'm sorry to not provide a direct answer. It's an impossible answer to give without more detail though. PM me and we can chat without needing to read over broken posts. It gets tough in forums because of timing. I'm not an EE, but I manage several so I should at least be able to communicate.
I agree 100%.
Inferno, if you really want answers (or at least an honest effort at answers) PM me and we can chat. I'm not too proud to say "I don't know" when I don't know. More specifics are definitely needed. We can keep posting here, but it seems as though you want to pick arguments without providing any info and I'm just not comfortable with that.
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I'm not looking to make any problems or pick an argument. This thread exploded, by the time i answered it, this thing was 3 pages long and i was on page one. I'm starting off FOWLR 120 gal cycling 5th day with the hopes of getting to a point where i can keep anemones and some corals. I understand lighting extremely well but not for SW inhabitants. I figured if I could clarify the watts per gallon thingy the research on the temperature, lumens etc would be the easy Part. Once i get the correct hardware in place the rest in my opinion would be easier. Based on the tank size what should i do.
__________________
Keith
120 FOWLR Online 
If all else fails start from scratch
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06-29-2009, 10:25 PM
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#2
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: May 2009
Location: G14 Classified
Posts: 443
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Well, you want info, won't say what exactually you is looking for, then get mad because you aren't getting an answer about a questions you didn't ask to get the answer you are looking for. Then you have to interject that you are an electrical engineer with all this experience.
What exactually do you want to know? The original question has been answered.
EDIT: What I posted was kinda rude. What exactually are you looking for in an answer? The watts per gallon rule means as much as the inch per gallon rule. I would be more then happy to help, I just don't know exactually what you want to know.
__________________
90 gallon FW community tank, 5 gallon - electric blue lobster (House of Blue), Marineland Hex 5 - quarantine/hospital tank.
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06-30-2009, 06:35 AM
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#3
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: May 2009
Location: New York
Posts: 1,683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FishKeeper
Well, you want info, won't say what exactually you is looking for, then get mad because you aren't getting an answer about a questions you didn't ask to get the answer you are looking for. Then you have to interject that you are an electrical engineer with all this experience.
What exactually do you want to know? The original question has been answered.
EDIT: What I posted was kinda rude. What exactually are you looking for in an answer? The watts per gallon rule means as much as the inch per gallon rule. I would be more then happy to help, I just don't know exactually what you want to know.
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Sorry about that, Calculating lighting for an office building is super easy but having to calculate an adequate amount of light necessary to support life is another story and is something I'm not familiar with (Frustration is setting in). What I'm looking to do is setup my hood with the proper amount of lighting for my FOWLR 120 Gal (1st SW tank and Cycking) with the capacity to support corals down the road. Anything you can help me with is greatly appreciated.
__________________
Keith
120 FOWLR Online 
If all else fails start from scratch
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06-29-2009, 10:41 PM
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#4
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Mentor
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,755
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I haven't read the entire thread, but will hopefully not repeat what others have already stated. Originally the rule was created to include all lighting varieties; however, the 'watts per gallon' rule no longer applies because it does not account for intensity, depth penetration, nor indicative of PAR. Majority of the saltwater habits veer towards reef-keeping and bulbs that emit a higher PAR (photosynthetically active radiation), which corals utilize for photosynthesis. Different manufactured bulbs have different specifications and numbers can vary depending on the depth penetration and other "natural" occurrences within our systems, but also vary between lighting fixtures (usually point source or spotlight affect vs. elongate) and very importantly the reflectors.
This is rather "dumbed" down and if you need any help in which to choose (yes, the choices are maddening!) feel free to ask away. Do you wish to keep corals in the future and if so, what are you leaning towards?
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06-29-2009, 11:10 PM
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#5
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: May 2009
Location: New York
Posts: 1,683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Innovator
I haven't read the entire thread, but will hopefully not repeat what others have already stated. Originally the rule was created to include all lighting varieties; however, the 'watts per gallon' rule no longer applies because it does not account for intensity, depth penetration, nor indicative of PAR. Majority of the saltwater habits veer towards reef-keeping and bulbs that emit a higher PAR (photosynthetically active radiation), which corals utilize for photosynthesis. Different manufactured bulbs have different specifications and numbers can vary depending on the depth penetration and other "natural" occurrences within our systems, but also vary between lighting fixtures (usually point source or spotlight affect vs. elongate) and very importantly the reflectors.
This is rather "dumbed" down and if you need any help in which to choose (yes, the choices are maddening!) feel free to ask away. Do you wish to keep corals in the future and if so, what are you leaning towards?
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Thank you innovator, I'm starting a 120 FOWLR and want to go to a reef down the road. I want to prep the hood for the present and the future. To many choices and to much money for some of those lights.
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Keith
120 FOWLR Online 
If all else fails start from scratch
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06-29-2009, 10:46 PM
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#6
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Highland, Maryland
Posts: 1,234
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So in the future you will be going REEF? if you know what type of corals you are interested in you should post a question in the saltwater forum about what type of light and how much you will need for those corals. again be as detailed as you can as to the type of set up you are putting together including the types of fish, corals, inverts and equipment you will want. you will get better more direct answers with more info provided.
i would like to apologize for any miscommunication during this thread. it is easy to misread intent and not be able to communicate the point needed and we should not let that spiral in to unpleasantness.
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~Matt~
 If you put off what you can do today until tomorrow it will never get done cause tomorrow never comes. It's always today.
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06-29-2009, 10:57 PM
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#7
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: May 2009
Location: G14 Classified
Posts: 443
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Problem is, there are many answers, but the answer that works for you depends on what you want to do.
Try comming into chat, maybe there are people in there that can help and we can all understand what you are looking to get answered.
__________________
90 gallon FW community tank, 5 gallon - electric blue lobster (House of Blue), Marineland Hex 5 - quarantine/hospital tank.
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06-29-2009, 11:03 PM
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#8
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: so cali
Posts: 2,945
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Quote:
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1st of The question was not answered
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it was answered. all i can see is what is typed out here.
once again ill point it out.... the question as i see it was.
when calculating WPG do you use incandescent wattage or fluorescent wattage?
i answered fluorescent.
Quote:
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if WPG is no longer the rule of thumb then how does one determine what's needed?
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this is a different question then what was asked. like i said up there when you tell everyone what you are trying to do people would be able to better understand what you want and answer your questions you want answered but havent asked. with out the info we can only answer what you have answered.
HN and i were both quickly to point out it isnt simple. he said to pm him and explain what you really want so he can answer i said make a new thread with all the info so someone can help you.
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06-29-2009, 11:15 PM
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#9
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: May 2009
Location: New York
Posts: 1,683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgamer20o0
it was answered. all i can see is what is typed out here.
once again ill point it out.... the question as i see it was.
when calculating WPG do you use incandescent wattage or fluorescent wattage?
i answered fluorescent.
this is a different question then what was asked. like i said up there when you tell everyone what you are trying to do people would be able to better understand what you want and answer your questions you want answered but havent asked. with out the info we can only answer what you have answered.
HN and i were both quickly to point out it isnt simple. he said to pm him and explain what you really want so he can answer i said make a new thread with all the info so someone can help you.
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My intentions are on an earlier page, however I just started cycling a 120gal FOWLR and down the road get some corals. I want to prepare the hood I'm going to build with all of the hardware needed for the present and the future.
If some one would of said that WPG is no longer used this thread would be over but it is what it is.
__________________
Keith
120 FOWLR Online 
If all else fails start from scratch
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06-29-2009, 11:21 PM
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#10
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: so cali
Posts: 2,945
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Quote:
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The WPG formula is worth just as much as the inch per gallon IMO. Nothing. There are no "types" of wattage.
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Quote:
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the wpg rule is pretty much out dated and was a general rule of thumb with the t10 normal output fluorescent bulb. todays technological advances in lighting renders the old wpg rule useless especially with saltwater.
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Quote:
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Originally the rule was created to include all lighting varieties; however, the 'watts per gallon' rule no longer applies because it does not account for intensity, depth penetration, nor indicative of PAR.
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