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Old 08-31-2009, 03:34 PM   #11
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Oh yeah, I'm going to wait at least 4 days, then fill & let sit for a good week in the garage to make sure.

I can tell you for sure that if I ever have to do it again, I'm getting a tube that can go in a caulking gun, because the squeeze tube sucked. I examined it a little closer and I think it is thin in a few spots, and although there's at least 1/4" of bead, there is a spot or two that didn't 'flare out' very much when I ran my finger across it. I probably should have touched up those spots before it skinned over but it's too late now. It's still better than it was when I got it.

Plus my 55 have a few thin spots like that, and those are original, it has no issues so I'm not worried too much.
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Old 08-31-2009, 09:07 PM   #12
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The gun is the way to go, but its not really cost efficient for a smaller tank unless you plan to use it again... I resealed every tank i got that i didnt see set up, which if i remember correctly was two 55's, a 30, and a 10... I got kind of used to just buying one, then resealing it... my biggest job was going back with a razor blade and cleaning up the spots that i didnt make look so good lol... Sounds like you pretty much covered it, but it is a good idea to test it first
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Old 09-01-2009, 03:43 PM   #13
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Need quick reply please!

Another question, after the first 24 hrs I ran my finger across all the seams, and have found a couple spots, maybe and inch or so long, where the silicone isn't flared out much more than 1/4" from the corner itself, in other words, I ran my finger along the bead but in a few spots it just smoothed the top out and pushed it into the corner better, but it didn't goo out around my fingertip. Both of these places are along the bottom, one at the front edge, one at the back. That's where I started, and since it's a 37 with black trim, I couldn't really see that it was too thin. Is it too late to dab in some extra silicone in those spots?

One previous poster said new won't stick to old, but will new stick to 24-48 hours old?

Need some advice ASAP on this one.

Thanks
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Old 09-01-2009, 09:03 PM   #14
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its worth a try... why dont you take some really rough sandpaper and run over the spots that need "touching up" and then the silicone will have somethign better to bond to... its going to have water pushing against it, so i dont see a problem with those spots...jmo tho
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Old 09-01-2009, 11:03 PM   #15
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I guess I don't know if roughing it up would work very well, because how do you get the little bits of cut up silicone 100% removed so that there will be no air bubbles?

I'm leaning towards cutting it all off and doing it over and calling it a learning experience. It took me quite a while to get it ready the first time, and I'm guessing it's going to take longer with freshly bonded silicone. It is possible to cut away only the sections that need to be redone and leave the good portions alone? The vertical corner beads look fine, it's just sections along the base that are thin, and they're thin enough after looking at the closely that I think they need to be redone, but not 100% - the corners are fine, it's just along the edges.
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Old 09-01-2009, 11:32 PM   #16
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i did that on one of the tanks i resealed... i just left the bead going down the corners and resealed only the bottom... worked fine for me... not sure what other people will say, but as long as you do an extra goopy corner, i wouldnt see a problem with it
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Old 09-01-2009, 11:45 PM   #17
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Thank you mfd, you have been a great help with all my questions. I can tell you've done this quite a few times. I didn't get the corners really super goopy, probably because I was going for time (< 5 min) and really didn't know what I was doing. I think I'm going to shop for the DAP tube at Home Depot and use my caulking gun and get it right.

I guess if anyone else reads these posts in the future, I can tell you to go liberal on the silicone around the bottom and the corners, too much is better than not enough since you don't see that part anyways, then to make sure that you flare the bead out on the vertical seams enough to bleed out about 1/2" from each corner.

The seal that I removed was really thick at the base and the edge was 'rounded' like it overflowed from around your finger, and the edges were more thinned out and pretty/presentable.
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Old 09-02-2009, 12:01 AM   #18
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i used a plastic "wedge" when i did mine. I got a few when i was helping my dad calk around a bathtub... it has 4 corners with different angles and you can pretty much choose how you want the bead to look and keep it perfect the whole way around. Any hardware store should have them. I dont know if i mentioned that before. Sorry i havent given you the best answers, im still new at this. But i have done this before, and learned that with silicone, you can always use too much, its just like wood, cut it too long, its ok, cut it too short, gotta start all over
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:45 AM   #19
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I bought one of those, but it wasn't the multi-tool, it was just a soft-edged rounded scraper and it didn't contact the silicone bead enough so I switched to my finger. I guess I should have taken that as a clue.
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:16 AM   #20
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"then to make sure that you flare the bead out on the vertical seams enough to bleed out about 1/2" from each corner."

I have a question regarding the above quote.
1)Whats a bead and what is the point of flaring it out.

I am planning to reseal a 55g.
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