What I did for the 37 was bought a square blade razor shaving tool, available at any hardware store. This basically is a holder for the blade that locks it in place, because you need the ability to apply pressure against the glass to get under the silicone.
I started by holding the razor edge at about a 45 degree angle against the glass pane that is inside the adjacent pane. In standard tanks, this is the SIDE pane. You push the blade into the seal and as you go further in, you flatten the blade to about 20-30 degrees so you don't dig into the joint between the panes themselves. Keep pushing until you hit the front/back glass, repeat all along the seam.
Next, you do the same thing along the adjacent edge, and while you push the razor in, you watch from the outside of the glass to make sure you don't push the blade any further than the inside corner. Do this all along the other seams.
The hard part is the bottom. The sides & front/back sit on top of the bottom pane, so you can cut the seal from the top down, no problem. But you can't see how far you're pushing the blade in along the top side of the bottom pane from the outside like you can the vertical seams because of the casing, and even if you could take that off, it's still physically difficult without a spotter. So you have to be careful.
The next part, after you slide-cut all the seams, is to take you razor against the front/back pane, starting at the top, and running it down along the seam to loosen the seal and pull it off. Mine came off pretty easy.
You get the bulk of it off this way, the rest takes time and patience. I had to use blade in hand (no tool) and scrape, scrape, scrape. Then get one of those micro-fiber cleaning cloths, my favs are from Target automotive section, a dozen or so for a few bucks, Orange ones. You can sweep these across the glass in small strokes and scrunch them to pick up the little pieces that get all over and they come right off when you shake them.
Then once that's all done, keep scraping and collecting. You'll end up with a lot more than you think
Just whatever you do, don't get the edge of the blade in between the pane joint.
Clean the edges with alcohol, wipe again, scrape, collect, alcohol, get it as clean as possible, than apply silicone.
Do it right the first time. I didn't. I'm not looking forward to removing freshly bonded silicone, I think it's going to be a lot harder.
? As far as misinforming people, I think not, I've been dealing with silicones for over 20 years and have never had a problem when I used the correct silicone for the correct application. I went to the manufacturer for it because it is what they use and is specifically designed for bonding and sealing glass aquariums which can handle the stress of all the water. Most importantly no matter what is said if you don't install the silicone properly it doesn't matter if you wait 24 hrs or 24 days it's still going to leak.
