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Old 06-06-2012, 04:03 AM   #11
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Btw if you would use tap you would probably experience higher ph due to a harder water. Im not sure of this but its my best educated guess.
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:35 AM   #12
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I'm not sure what reading it is i'll test it again. I remember years ago testing it and not even seeing it on the color chart it was so high. PH chemicals wont even touch it.

THe water is extremely hard well water.
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:44 AM   #13
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Take a look at www.airwaterice.com, maybe email and ask them if they have any suggestions
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Old 06-06-2012, 01:44 PM   #14
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My tap water going into my ro/di filter has a ph of around 8.2 it comes out of the filter at around 7.0 so ro/di lowers the ph.
When your well water has a lot of minerals in it its ph buffered which is why you say that the ph chemicals wont touch it, they will work eventually but with unknown results if you keep adding stuff to lower the ph it will eventualy overcome the waters natural buffers and then crash to a very low ph, so there isn't much you can do safely going the chemical route with your water.
When you get everything out of the water through filtration the water will have a neutral ph which is a ph of 7.0
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Old 06-06-2012, 05:40 PM   #15
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Interesting i had no idea it dropped ph
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Old 06-06-2012, 08:04 PM   #16
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Excellent info, thanks! So the minerals in the water are actually what gives it the alkalinity, similar to some LR the buffers PH..
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Old 06-08-2012, 11:30 AM   #17
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Yes, actually the whole ph scale is based on water ( the universal solvent) being a ph of 7.0 ( the middle of the scale) . Same is true for specific gravity pure water is 1.000 , the impurities are what changes waters ph.
Your tank uses the sand bed as a buffer, that's why aragonite or crushed coral is reccomended because it will buffer your water and help maintain a good ph of 8.0-8.4 , no matter what you add to change that your sand bed will resist the change to a certain extent. But if you overcome your waters natural buffering your ph will crash with unknown results.
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