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Old 07-19-2010, 09:43 PM   #11
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I have a water filter underneath the sink, which filters the cold water that comes out of that sink. That works pretty well, but I can't take much more liberty with the plumbing on that kitchen sink since I live in an apartment. I am planning on moving into my own home in March 2011, so I'll be able to do more there.

Come to think of it, I don't plan on having any corals until after I move, and during that process I'll inevitably do a 100% water change. Do you think there would be any harm in just using the filtered tap water instead of RO/DI water until then?

Past that, it sounds like I would have more luck hooking it up to the hose out back, which leaves me kind of screwed in the winter since I live in Ohio...

-Adam Horton
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:54 PM   #12
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I don't necessarily think messing with the plumbing is that much of an issue for something this small. I mean with a saddle valve once you're done with it, all you do is turn it off and no one will ever know it's there. (Assuming you installed it right, which is very easy). I think your problem is low pressure. If I understand correctly, you have the filtered water going to your sink, which feeds the RO/DI unit? So you're filtering the water, then giving it to the RO/DI? That filter is probably acting like a choke point, causing you not to have much pressure there. It's just my un(plumbing)educated guess though.

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Old 07-20-2010, 09:01 AM   #13
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I have a 6 year old Typhoon III. Last year I changed the membrane to the 150 gpd unit that AWI has. I've had a booster pump from them for 2 years.

Now when I make RODI water I get the rated amount. The water temp from the faucet is over 50 degrees and the booster pump is set to give me 70 psi (from the tap that's at 40 - 45 psi).

I also noted that my waste water is MUCH less than it was before the booster pump and increased temp.

In the winter I use a 25' coil for the intake tube from the pump that sits in a 5 gallon bucket with a heater. It heats the water a bit to help with the output.
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Old 07-20-2010, 09:27 AM   #14
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It makes sense that if the filter is operating under proper conditions (75 psi, 70-80F) it will have better output. It seems like pressure is my problem here.

So what you're telling me is that it's possible to have a booster pump between the faucet/hose and the filter intake to provide the adequate pressure? This seems like a more workable solution since it doesn't involve changing the plumbing in my apartment at all.

Last winter I noticed that increasing the temperature gives me better results for the filter, which is why I have about room-temp water coming out of the faucet. But it sounds like if the water coming from the faucet/hose is too cold, I can heat it up by submerging the intake tube in warm water.

So I have a couple of other ideas, and I'm sure you'll easily tell me why these won't work: What if I had a bin with 40G or so of tap water in it, and had my booster pump operate from that to the intake of the filter? Is there some kind of pump that works this way, or is this just a pipe dream?

Assuming that works, what if I piped some of all of the waste water back into that bin? Something about that sounds wrong but I don't know enough to say what it is or if it really matters... just bouncing some ideas around before I go spending money on this setup.
-Adam Horton
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Old 07-20-2010, 11:26 AM   #15
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Something to take into consideration with apartments, there is only 1 supply coming into the building and it gets branched off to the needed units and common areas. that there is enough to kill the pressure completely. to a near well water trickle.

In your situation without a booster pump im not sure what else you can do besides nag the landlord for a pressure pump.

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ro/di, stem

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