The temp actually makes a very large difference to production.
It isn't worth trying to heat the water first, just be patient.
The units need a cold water supply so that should really say DO NOT USE HOT WATER
Temperature correction factor. (@ nominal operating pressure 60psi)
@25/77 gives 1(cf
) (100GPD is 100gpd produced)
@15/59 gives 1.47 (100GPD is 68.02gpd produced)
@9/48 gives 2 (100GPD is 50gpd produced)
@5/41 gives 2.58. (100GPD is 38.75gpd produced)
Pressure is also very important, these figures are guides for 60psi
+/- any PSI will affect production speed accordingly.
So you can get a rough idea for a range of temps for your unit.
Using a normally configured RO
unit, the pressure gauge should go before the membrane and after the CCB.
To detect filter efficiency a second gauge needs to be installed before the pre filter. The reason is, a single gauge is controlled by input valve, this fluctuates with temperature. Also if another water source is used (bath/pan/tap) this reduces input pressure at the unit.
Keep track of dates and production, the most critical aspect is volume throughput on the CCB, they are rated normally at 6months or x amount. This figure is the effective ability of the CCB to remove chlorine. Chlorine will destroy your membrane instantly.
Replace pre filter/CCB as appropriate. This will prolong the life of the membrane. It should give 4-6 years of use.
You are better off playing it safe here.
Coyne, at 40psi you are only just producing water. Are you on the main fed or the storage tank?
The reason I'm asking, if you lose just 1psi you stop producing RO
water. Waste water will continue to flow. Factor in temp correction and in the dark of winter production will be painfully slow for you.
(Pressure gauge simply connects in with a T, kits normally contain all pieces)