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Old 02-26-2012, 07:21 PM   #21
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hmmm, so I still would need to add water conditioner? I thought the RODI system removed chlorine. I am on city water...
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:26 PM   #22
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U basically can yes put it in the basement, run the line when u do water changes just fill the bucket in front of the tank instead of wherever your ro/di is. You'll atleast save the trouble of carrying buckets up stairs or across the house. Since your on city I would condition the water. They do a lot to it! Wether it's top off or new saltwater.
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:56 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by fort384 View Post
So, would something like this "build your own" from BRS be a better option?
I changed some of what you listed below.



Build Your Own RO System
Stage One
1 Micron Sediment Filter
Stage Two
0.5 Micron Carbon Block
Stage Three
No need for a second carbon block unless you have chloramines in your water. So a 4 stage system is a better bet for nearly everyone.
Stage Four (Membrane)
75 Gallons Per Day (98% Rejection)
Stage Five (on it's own bracket)
Single DI
Accessories
You want to measure TDS in 3 locations. Tap, RO, and DI. So either get
a) a handheld meter, or
b) a dual inline and measure the RO and DI (only), or
c) a dual inline and a single inline so you can measure in all 3 locations.

Auto shut off valve (you'll also need a chack valve to make the ASOV work).
Float Valve
Water and Drain Supply
Laundry Tub and Garden Hose Adaptor
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:59 PM   #24
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...and decrease the waste water almost to a 1:1 ratio.
We generally recommend against this approach.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:08 PM   #25
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Using a 1 micron sediment filter will just cause it to clog prematurely and cause the pressure to drop. :-( I still like having the extra stage of carbon myself, can never be too sure of what's in the water.

I havent' tried the "piggy back" membrane to increase production and decrease the waste water but since my water pressure is high enough i will be buying it shortly. The 75gpd from BRS is really slow. lol I'm used to 5g an hour or so of pure water.

What company do you represent Buckeye? I know you've been in discussions before and you always go against whatever unit is being mentioned so you must have a preference. If your product is superior and has everything we need and you recommend then maybe you can share? lol Not sure if its against forum rules or something but I'd like to know what we're missing.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:24 PM   #26
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You said it. Commercial posts are against the rules!

Almost 15 years of experience configuring RODI and RO systems for the aquaculture trade has provided lots of opportunities to try various things and learn what works and what doesn't.

There are sooo many systems out there that are misconfigured - many of them are sold through a certain auction web site. There are a handful of vendors who focus on systems for this hobby - and for the most part you can't go wrong with most of their products. There are certain however, like a piggy back membrane to reduce waste water, or horizontal DI stages, that we feel are just not good application of the technology.

Russ
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:00 AM   #27
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Ok. Here is my plan:
I will mount a shelf at a height of 6' and put 2 15gallon close top drums on the shelf. The bottom of each drum will have a bulkhead. I can then attach a spigot and hose. One tank will be for pwcs so I will have a powerhead and heater in it. The other will be for top offs. I can then use gravity and run a hose from either to the sump under the dt during maintenance (about 30' away). This also solves my space issue.

http://www.bayteccontainers.com/15galpolbar.html

The drums only have a 2"bung so I may have to cut a larger hole to get equipment in.

I can use a step stool and funnel to add salt. Once I figure out the right amount I shouldn't have to fine adjust much anyway hopefully since adding salt will be a bit of a pain with this setup.

I will hook a T to the clean water output and 2 ball valves so I can control which tank is getting RO. I will have 1 auto shut off valve. There will be a float valve in each tank.

Does this sound like a good plan?

Here is my awesome diagram (to scale of course).


Click image for larger version

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Old 02-27-2012, 06:30 AM   #28
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Nice. This is similar to how I have my reef set up at home. Couple of thoughts for you:

1. Each drum, when full, will weigh about 126 lbs. Be extra careful with how you set up the shelving!

2. As a failsafe, drill a hole in the side of each near the top, screw in a 1/2" fitting, and attach some 1/2" tubing that goes to a drain. Overflows are no fun.

3. Remember that if you use a float with an adjustable arm, you can mount these in the top of the container.


4. For the container that you use for top off water, suggest that you never put more water in there than about 110% of the amount you'll need each week. So if you have that tank gravity feed a float valve in your sump, and if that float valve ever fails, there will be a limit to the amount of fresh water that can enter the sump. So after you fill that tank once a week, close the ball valve that feeds it so its not constantly re-filled.

5. You want to set up the RO system so that it comes on at least once a week, and so that it doesn't constantly short cycle (as it will if you have it connected (indirectly) to a float valve in your sump.

6. Suggest you use 1/4" tubing and quick connect fittings (including 1/4" bulkheads) rather than PVC to route water from your RO system to the tanks.

7. If you want to automate it more, you could add an irrigation (garden hose) timer so that the system come on once a week for x hours.

Russ
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:45 PM   #29
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Thanks for the tips Russ. I ordered all the plumbing parts. I will start putting it together this week.
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