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Old 03-12-2006, 12:17 AM   #1
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Sump Plumbing Questions

Morning Folks,

I'm looking at plumbing my sump and have a few questions.

I have an Oceanic 75 gallon rr tank and this overflow has a 1" drain and a 3/4" return.
According to the website: This overflow has a maximum flow through rate of 600 G.P.H. per overflow.
My return pump is a Mag Drive 950 (950gph).

I was planning it all out and was hoping you could tell me if any of these three designs were better than another?

Thanks!

Design 1


Design 2


Design 3
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I have an Oceanic 75g RR tank, MegaFlow sump, ASM G2 Skimmer, stand, canopy, and 60lbs of base rock.

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Old 03-12-2006, 12:42 AM   #2
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Where did you get the idea for the air release? I like it, wonder if it works well. I would put the input line on a 45 degree angle instead of having a horizontal section. And put a true-nion ball valve immediately after the pump so you can service the pump and not disturb the plumbing. and I would dry fit and run the setup to see if you need an excess flow pipe back into the sump, it may not be necessary with the pump you have.

Finally, what program did you use to draw these in?
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Old 03-12-2006, 12:30 PM   #3
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The idea came from other posts where people mentioned they were getting air into their drain lines and it was splashing into their sumps. I figured this would give the air a way to get out before hitting the sump. At least in my mind it made sense.

45deg angle makes sense. I just thought that having it horizontal and adding the wye fitting would make it easier for the air to escape.

I hadn't thought of the unions. I'll need to add those in or go with flex tubing.

I did the drawing in CorelDRAW.

Thanks!
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Old 03-22-2006, 11:09 PM   #4
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ok dumb question, im gonna attempt to make a sump and i was wondering whats the grey thing in the middle of the tank?

and in the first little area do you put a rock/sand mix?
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Old 03-23-2006, 12:18 AM   #5
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Design 2 looks good to me. I think you will have to throttle the pump back otherwise and that is not good in the long run. I dump my display drain around rock as well. It works as a great bubble trap and mine drops about 12ft. I do have a T on the drain line but that was by accident. I just left it open so it could breath. I have capped it and not really noticed a difference.
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Old 03-23-2006, 12:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
i was wondering whats the grey thing in the middle of the tank?
That's a protein skimmer, but it doesn't have to go IN the sump, it can go outside too.
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Old 03-23-2006, 08:25 AM   #7
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My suggestion is use something like design 2- However add another section on the right side of the sump and plumb your T-line to that section instead of back into the section with he skimmer or filter.

You can then make the new section to the right a fuge. Add sand and a little LR with some algae. This area will see flwo from the pump but this flow should not be very high and will allow the pump to operate at its design flow but it gives you the additional benifits of a sustem with a fuge and a sump.
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:18 AM   #8
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All the diagrams have a major flaw IMO and that is the 90 degree angles from the overflow which will greatly reduce your water flow. Even 45 degree angles will reduce it slightly and if you can just use a flex hose with a slight bend or no bend at all then you will get maximum water flow from your overflow.

I use a 1200 gph overflow and my Mag 9.5 is maxed out without having to reduce with a ball valve although I do use one for maintenance. With only 600 gph flowing you will have to slightly reduce the flow coming from the pump.

Personally I section my return partially off to my 10 gal refugium which gravity feeds back into the 20 gal sump and the rest goes to opposite sides of the tank pointed at each other.

Edit:
If you are worried about flooding then you can get an auto top of switch to turn the pump off. www.autotopoff.com sells them cheap or you could get a Tsunami AT1 unit for just a little more.
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:29 AM   #9
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I agree with the use of the 45's. You an use 2 45's to make a 90 bend. The idea of the T on the pump will allow him run the tank return wide open. He will have to adjust the ball valve going back into sump so that the tank will not get too much flow. My tank would get about 1000 gph if I did not have a discharge loop going back into the sump. My overflow can only technically handle 600 gph.

The fuge is a great idea but you might be limited on space in the sump. He would have to add another baffle which would make the return section smaller. You will need an auto top off or you will be filling that chamber up alot. The smaller the return chamber the more you are going to be topping it off. The return chamber will be the one dropping from evaporation so a nice return chamber is needed if you don't have an auto top off. This might not be a big deal for some but I lose almost 1.5 gal a day from evaporation.
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Old 03-23-2006, 12:22 PM   #10
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ellisz, just curious but why do you have an aversion to using vinyl tubing? I like the ease of it personally and flow issues are never a problem. They do have to be cleaned/replaced every so often but for me it’s not really an issue.

Even pvc has to be cleaned periodically and having to deal with cutting/gluing is a pain even though it’s not really hard.

Also I use a separate 10 gal refugium that sits above my 20 gal sump instead of the refugium within the same tank. With a 75 gal being 48” X 18” elzool should have enough room for both.
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