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Old 04-10-2014, 02:46 PM   #11
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Who made your tank - I've yet to see a 55 gallon tank with all tempered glass?

In regards to your two designs, the top one is possible with a drilled tank to handle gravity fed overflow back into the DT - as was pointed out, you will have no surface skimming of the DT, although you could surface skim the sump, and you also may have issues with top off. Secondly you have the issue of attaching/placing a pump capable of pumping water up to the sump somewhere in your DT.

If a HOB is out because of the possibility of a flood, you surely don't want the second set-up because guaranteed you will either have a flood by overflowing one of your tanks, or you will burn up one or more of your pumps, and then likely have a flood. Even if you started out with the exact same two pumps with gate valves on them, the first time one of them gets an obstruction, the other one will either burn up or cause a flood. Not worth the time, effort, or money to make the attempt IMO.
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Old 04-10-2014, 05:03 PM   #12
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Yes you can compromise by reducing the volume of water in both tanks by lowering the minimum level. You also need to install other sensors or controls to stop each pump before it reaches the minimum level. Even if you can balance the flow by means of gate valves overtime they will gradually deviate from each other. With all those stuff to make it work it becomes complicated. Using smaller capacity pumps will reduce filtering effectiveness. Lastly, I have not known anyone yet with such configuration. You might be the first.

I see.. Thanks for clarifying. .
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Old 04-10-2014, 05:04 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Wy Renegade View Post
Who made your tank - I've yet to see a 55 gallon tank with all tempered glass?

In regards to your two designs, the top one is possible with a drilled tank to handle gravity fed overflow back into the DT - as was pointed out, you will have no surface skimming of the DT, although you could surface skim the sump, and you also may have issues with top off. Secondly you have the issue of attaching/placing a pump capable of pumping water up to the sump somewhere in your DT.

If a HOB is out because of the possibility of a flood, you surely don't want the second set-up because guaranteed you will either have a flood by overflowing one of your tanks, or you will burn up one or more of your pumps, and then likely have a flood. Even if you started out with the exact same two pumps with gate valves on them, the first time one of them gets an obstruction, the other one will either burn up or cause a flood. Not worth the time, effort, or money to make the attempt IMO.

The tank was from the dollar per gallon sale at petco. On the bottom of the tank is a bright orange sticker reading "Do not drill. All panels are tempered." It really sucks.
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Old 04-10-2014, 05:07 PM   #14
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Now in regards everyone. Thanks for all the advice. Sumps are my weakest point in the hobby, having never run one :|. Boy do I wish the tank wasn't tempered.

Do you know of any overflows or such that are close to bullet proof? I believe someone mentioned one using certain pumps to cut it off if something with the water level goes wrong?

Wow... Sound like a complete noob right now. Eh, I don't like it, but you have to learn.
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Old 04-10-2014, 05:22 PM   #15
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This is a little pricey but it uses your return pump flow to start the siphon when the flow starts.

So when power go out and of the siphon breaks, it will start siphoning again when the pump starts.

I don't know how well it works but a friend of mine was considering this at one time

http://www.fragtasticreef.com/Tom-Aq...B-Overflow.htm
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Old 04-10-2014, 05:27 PM   #16
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I would recommend this one and very reliable. You can then apply your idea of making sure none of the tanks will overflow when power is lost. I have ato controller in my DT to stop the pump from overflowing when HOB overflow is clogged up. I have it in my 60 gal tank and i never had a problem.

CPR CS Overflow Boxes

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Old 04-10-2014, 05:30 PM   #17
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The tank was from the dollar per gallon sale at petco. On the bottom of the tank is a bright orange sticker reading "Do not drill. All panels are tempered." It really sucks.
That is interesting, given the cost of tempered glass, I find it highly unlikely that all the panes are tempered if they sold it at the dollar per gallon sale, but it is tough to argue with the sticker isn't it?
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Old 04-10-2014, 05:31 PM   #18
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Having had to buy normal and tempered glass over the years, I've found tempered to be much more costly, if you can, see who actually made the tank and verify. I had one that had the same label, but only the bottom was actually tempered. Side note, I run a tunze overflow, never lost prime, doesn't build air bubbles, and (for tank / scrubber maintaining proposes ) I've cut power to the pumps often, always picks up right where it left off.

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Old 04-10-2014, 05:53 PM   #19
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That is interesting, given the cost of tempered glass, I find it highly unlikely that all the panes are tempered if they sold it at the dollar per gallon sale, but it is tough to argue with the sticker isn't it?

It is.. Being that it's from petco... And they aren't always the most reliable source of information, I'll check online and see if I can drill the tank. Hey, but I mean... Maybe the sticker is right.
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Old 04-10-2014, 05:54 PM   #20
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Having had to buy normal and tempered glass over the years, I've found tempered to be much more costly, if you can, see who actually made the tank and verify. I had one that had the same label, but only the bottom was actually tempered. Side note, I run a tunze overflow, never lost prime, doesn't build air bubbles, and (for tank / scrubber maintaining proposes ) I've cut power to the pumps often, always picks up right where it left off.

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Yeah, I'll definitely check. It's save a lot of money and hassle if it is. I'll look into the Tunze, thanks.
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