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Old 05-25-2016, 04:58 PM   #11
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Top back and sides would be best. Top and back with angle bracing on sides would suffice.

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Old 05-25-2016, 05:05 PM   #12
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How think should plywood be

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Old 05-25-2016, 05:07 PM   #13
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Thick*

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Old 05-25-2016, 06:03 PM   #14
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3/4" would be ideal, 1/2" is fine though

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Old 05-26-2016, 12:31 AM   #15
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For the size tank you are looking at, the 2x4 rack you have there is sufficient. Additional bracing might give you peace of mind, but really isn't necessary. I would definitely not add any plywood on the top of the stand, as Brookster said the sides and back would be best. Hopefully your builder squared and leveled the 2x4 top - double check it with a level. provided there is no twist and it's flat from board to board, that is a much better surface than a piece of plywood is ever going to give you. Additionally because of its composition, plywood is very difficult to get a good seal on the edges of, which means it tends to absorb water and swell over time. Wrapping it with something will of course make it more aesthetically pleasing. Make sure you have sealed the 2x material, so that they don't absorb water and you shouldn't have any warping issues, provided your builder used good dry materials - if he didn't, wrapping it isn't going to stop it from twisting.
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Old 05-26-2016, 12:39 AM   #16
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Ill add plywood on sides and back. I will sand it down and seal it with lots of coats

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Old 05-26-2016, 07:14 AM   #17
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Why not the top Wy?

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Old 05-26-2016, 10:37 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Brookster123 View Post
Why not the top Wy?

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In this case, assuming the top 2x4 are completely level and transitions are smooth, and that this is a standard glass tank, placing plywood on the top serves no purpose. It adds nothing to the structural integrity of the stand. Adding plywood to the sides and the back will prevent the stand from folding up or falling over, although with the L-shaped leg supports that isn't really necessary in this case either. It also adds nothing support-wise to the tank. The bottom black lip of the tank is the only part that makes contact with the stand, so all that extra wood under the tank is really just wasted. All that of course changes if the tank is acrylic. Additionally plywood, if not properly sealed, is far more likely to absorb moisture and swell than those 2 x 4's are, and that is more likely to twist the tank and break a seal or a pane of glass.

The truth of the matter is that this particular stand is way over kill for a tank of this size (60 gallons). But generally speaking, the current trend in DIY stands today as a friend of mine says, "is to build stands that two elephants could fornicate on top of, without collapsing." This tank would be adequately supported with nothing more than a piece of 3/4" plywood stood-on-end under each end, provided you had a way to ensure the plywood would stay perfectly upright. All that is really necessary is to provide support under the black plastic rim of the tank.
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Old 05-26-2016, 10:55 AM   #19
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I tend to over build, especially with tank stands, going back to make corrections after the fact is out of the question. Who wants to drain and move a tank?? I cracked a 40b on a slacker stand.. never again. The ply on top would prevent twisting.
Op- Place your right hand and left hand on corresponding sides, move one forward while pulling back with the other, pin the bottom with your foot. If it moves now it will move much more with a thousand pounds of fluid on top. Take into account where it's going. I'd it's on a framed floor than it may move when you walk by. Over time the movements can compromise the stand.

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Old 05-26-2016, 11:08 AM   #20
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I just tried leaning on it and doesnt feel to twist and its very sturdy. I will check the level on it later today.

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