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Old 03-07-2013, 12:35 PM   #111
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That's good to hear. What did you end up doing to keep the beads from escaping? Did you bag it inside the reactor or use another method?
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:32 PM   #112
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I placed a mesh bag over the output to catch any stray bits.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:35 PM   #113
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Gonna buy some blue tuxedo urchins tomorrow to try to knock down excessive coraline algae. It is everywhere and clogging my power heads. Takes a metal scrapper to remove it from the front and side tank walls, Time for some of it to go. Hope they also like a bit of bubble algae as my sumps are getting too much of that as well. All the rocks are covered 95% in corals, so I don't think they can do much damage there, but everywhere else is fair game.
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:28 AM   #114
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Old 03-14-2013, 02:32 PM   #115
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Yes it can. It's just a bit tricky.
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:43 PM   #116
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The problems I been seeing is even with weekly WC my nitrates are over 40ppm. That's in my little 20 gallon housing 4 goldies n is filtered by a Fluval 306 which is packed with bio media. I even have a couple of bio media bags in the tank, I'm seeding em to kick start the cycle in the 90 gallon when its up n running. So what if I ran a reactor just like in that video and have the little power head for it in the return pump section of the sump?
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:55 AM   #117
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It doesn't work as well for me as the video showed. Don't know what the difference was, but it works and should work in your application as well.
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:00 PM   #118
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The problems I been seeing is even with weekly WC my nitrates are over 40ppm. That's in my little 20 gallon housing 4 goldies n is filtered by a Fluval 306 which is packed with bio media. I even have a couple of bio media bags in the tank, I'm seeding em to kick start the cycle in the 90 gallon when its up n running. So what if I ran a reactor just like in that video and have the little power head for it in the return pump section of the sump?
The problem is that goldfish can't be kept properly in a 20 gallon. I wish that wasn't the case but I've seen that same problem a few times. You'd have way better results with tropical fish in a 20. If you must keep them, try to keep the temp at about 70į max and feed them very lightly. Purigen would help a little, but it won't change the fact that these are messy fish in a small tank.
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Old 03-16-2013, 04:43 AM   #119
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Pretty new frags.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:53 PM   #120
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Some observations since acquiring the LEDs and a PAR meter. As I have mentioned before, the Chinese LEDs were a big improvement over a 20 year old MH/Actinic system.

I am a bit surprised at how little light some of these corals need to grow and prosper. And how much some of them soak up.

Common Acros are doing well from 280-500 PAR, many of the Acros are growing well at 300 PAR.
Fancier Acros (you know who you are...) seem to need 400-+500 PAR and very careful handling as bleaching is just a nudge away from the light values they prosper at. This may well be one of the reasons, besides low tolerance for phosphates, that these corals sometimes don't do well. High flow is also needed if high PAR values are used.
Capricornus seems to like about 200-300 PAR
GSP can grow at 50 PAR, but do better at 120-180 PAR
Zoas are about the same, but really do well at even higher PAR levels like 400.
Frogspawn and hammers seem to like 200-300 PAR
Mushrooms grow from an amazing 10 PAR and stop growing at about 300-400 PAR
Soft corals would grow from 50 PAR to 500 PAR, it just varies its length.
Green leather coral liked 100-200 PAR
Large green torch coral liked 200 PAR fine.
Trumpets and most millipora liked 350-500 PAR
Clams seem to like all you can give them. At least 400 PAR and in my frag system they get boosts of 1200 PAR for a few minutes out of every hour.

These are just general observations, they don't take into account flow and water quality, which I have done my best to optimize.
Will be making similar tests as I move from Chinese LED panels to broader spectrum LED panels soon.
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