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Old 05-13-2005, 10:48 AM   #11
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Yeah, I probably should not have qualified post with mention of DIY CO2. You're planning pressurized with pH regulator?
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Old 05-13-2005, 03:21 PM   #12
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Yes.. that why I wanted to go with a presurized CO2 system in the first place.. for the CO2 regulator. Of course if you know anyone that knows how to incorperated a CO2 regulator into there DIY CO2 system.. I think I thought of the possible ways but the price tag was around 120 dollors and by then I could spring the extra $40 + the price of the tank and I would have a presurized system. It would be complicated I am guessing..
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Old 05-13-2005, 03:36 PM   #13
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travis and malkore..
I was wondering if either of you guys still tested for nitrate levels in those heavily planted tanks of yours.. Im very curious about the anaerobic filtration properties of plants and what level of filtration they provide.
Thanks in Advance.
Bill
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Old 05-13-2005, 03:40 PM   #14
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that previous question goes for anyone with a hevily planted tank...
sorry czcz... I wasnt thinking of your tank because of its size and "intresing setup" that I dont plan on trying to duplicate..LOL..Ie the day night photoperiod and such.... but if you answered I would be happy to hear about it!!
TIA..
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Old 05-13-2005, 11:02 PM   #15
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Heh, I forget about my tank when I think of Travis and malkore's too I dose KNO3 two or three times a week (I add when test reads 5ppm NO3). Travis posted his fert schedule recently: http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewto...hlight=#411374 I know malkore doses KNO3 as well. This is typical in high light/CO2 system (nitrate is macro nutrient, and youll likely dose other macros too). Im pretty sure nitrate uptake in plants is part of the photosynthetic process btw, not an anaerobic process.
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Old 05-14-2005, 03:22 AM   #16
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your right that plants are not a anaerobic process.. I just get my wires crossed sometimes because they have the same result in reducing the NO3.. In other words.. from what I was guessing they are more than sufficient at removing NO3.. they need it supplemented.. No trying to use anaerobic filtration in such a setup.. I had planned on that with a fish only setup by the way.. Thats why it's stuck in my head!!! sorry about that..lol.
The target level for NO3, for plants of course, is 5ppm correct... you are dosing at that level.. I am wondering why you wouldnt be dosing when it was under that level to try maintain it.. or does the NO3 drop so fast this is a moot point?
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Old 05-14-2005, 11:29 AM   #17
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Target levels are tricky as there's smart people with different methods. I figure its best to use these numbers as starting points for experimentation, since every tank is different. Chuck Gadd recommends 5ppm NO3, but guys you mentioned advise 10:1 NO3 : PO4, and their success has me trying it.

[tangent] You may find my experience helpful or interesting: after adding sump NO3 stopped registering on my test (AP), and within a week there was an algae problem (as opposed to nuisance). One reason I added sump was to have larger volume/stability, so I happily started dosing KNO3. At this time I was also moving away from Excel to DIY CO2 (I mixed both while steadily increasing/measuring CO2 output). Algae was minimized quickly and my plants looked great. I kind of had a magic moment with my tank at this point, which is Feb update in my gallery/site. Then I decided I wanted all high light plants in main tank, and made things difficult So, now I've added much more efficent lighting and am experimenting with macro dosing with guidance from AA (I have new, hard to get rid of algae). High light/CO2/wet dry sump is really cool imo (example: vinnymac's system is sweet) and they make for interesting and efficent filters. Fun to build, too. Still, high light planted is the steepest learning curve I've experienced in aquaria.[/tangent]

Yes, nutrient uptake makes dosing for positive reading a PITA for me, as my system eats a little more than 3ppm of NO3 a day with constant photoperiod (I add ~24ppm NO3 from KNO3 a week, so this guesstimate does not take into account NO3 from animals). Dosing to 15ppm saves time and doesnt throw system out of whack, in addition to target ratio. If I understand linked post correctly, Travis has experienced up to 7.5ppm NO3 loss/day with regular photoperiod, and has measured enough to almost count on it... very impressive when you think about it.

HTH
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Old 05-14-2005, 07:43 PM   #18
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Ok, it is all at the very least interesting and most likely be helpful in the long run to hear about other peoples experience. and that kind of consumption of NO3 is impressive. your setup is small, by comparison, so its consummation is also impressive in my opinion.
I checked out vinniemac's setup.. since you mentioned it.. and it is everything you said it was and more!...LOL
to bring it back to the subject at hand it looks like vinniemac's setup could be made a little more efficient for CO2 by sealing up that sump but he has a 10lb canister. Im assuming a 10lb canister is big for a 65gal pressurized set up.. I think travis has a 5lb canister on his 125gal setup...
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Old 05-14-2005, 10:56 PM   #19
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acording to vinniemac's posts he said he had to fill his 10lb canister on average every 3.5 months..
travis..
Im I remembering right that you have a 5lb canister.. and how often do you need to refill it?
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Old 05-17-2005, 09:21 PM   #20
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This dawned on me today: doesn't sealing my wet/dry chamber (to preserve CO2) mean I'm also severely limiting its oxygenation capability? If so. I'm comfortable just switching to submerged bio media and leaving all oxygenation duties to plants. Thanks.
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