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Old 01-15-2014, 10:54 PM   #31
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It's just I don't want to part with fish that cost a lot of money. Sorry. I just want advice so I can learn
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:00 PM   #32
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By not answering questions, though, you're not helping yourself. Please answer the following questions.

1 Can you tell me what kind of filter you're using and what media you have in it?

2 Have you cleaned all the media at once and the inside of the filter (could cause ammonia spike) or

3 have you changed the gravel/sand out or otherwise done anything that could have upset your beneficial bacteria?

4 Have you tested your tap water directly for ammonia?

You have to help me help you...

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As far as not wanting to part with fish you payed money for, you may be better off doing that than having to shell out big bucks for enough metronidazole to treat their food and the water for 10 days or so if they come down with bloat due to the stress.

Losing fish, and essentially flushing money down the toilet is an unfortunate and ugly part of the hobby that everybody deals with.
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:03 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by mistersprinkles View Post
Only "bad" thing I said was "I asked already but I'll ask again" and even that is really pretty benign IMO.
Can you explain to me how explaining how to read a test kit and asking if the OP had read the instructions is bashing them? Because I just don't see it. I think you're being, with all due respect, overly-sensitive on someone else's behalf, whom I seriously don't believe I've offended at this point. Nor have I tried to.

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Msalmony- can you tell me what kind of filter you're using and what media you have in it? Have you cleaned all the media at once and the inside of the filter (could cause ammonia spike) or have you changed the gravel/sand out or otherwise done anything that could have upset your beneficial bacteria?

As to your fish freaking out when you do a water change- it's possible you have a high level of dissolved gasses in your water, or something else which is irritating the fish. You could try letting the water "age" in a large plastic container, then adding it to your tank. You would want a heater for this container, so that the water was the same temperature as your aquarium when you used it. This may ease the stress caused by water changes.

Also, this may be a silly question, but have you directly tested your tap water for ammonia? Some people get ammonia in their tap water.

I use a Fluval 305 and a TopFin60 HOB filter. I did make the mistake of vacuuming all the gravel all at once a few times.

I have not checked the tap water but I can. I got the Fluval filter used and it already had good bacteria in it. I haven't changed anything in that yet.
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:04 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistersprinkles View Post
Only "bad" thing I said was "I asked already but I'll ask again" and even that is really pretty benign IMO.
Can you explain to me how explaining how to read a test kit and asking if the OP had read the instructions is bashing them? Because I just don't see it. If my comments bother you, don't read them. That might ease your frustration.
Trust me I am not frustrated, but it does annoy me when someone who is in trouble and is asking for help, ends up feeling bad. The advice you offered was not the issue, the way you deliver it was. The OP is trying to get help. He/she is obviously new and judging by the reply I quoted from, feels like they are getting lectured too. This is a friendly forum with members that are/should be willing to help. We all have the same in common, a passion for fish. There is a way to reply to a thread/post without making the OP feel like crap.
You may not have intended it to come across the way it did but obviously the OP feels the same as I do. I am not going to get into a personal argument with you or trade insults, I have better things to do with my time. I have every right to read or reply to ANY thread on this forum, as we all do....
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Old 01-16-2014, 12:28 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by msalmony8688 View Post
I use a Fluval 305 and a TopFin60 HOB filter. I did make the mistake of vacuuming all the gravel all at once a few times.

I have not checked the tap water but I can. I got the Fluval filter used and it already had good bacteria in it. I haven't changed anything in that yet.
I'm not a fan of the top fin but the 305 will handle all the biological filtration you'll need for that tank.

Vaccuuming all your gravel is not a terrible thing to do at all, in fact, it's recommended. Vaccuuming gravel will not remove much beneficial bacteria from the gravel. Maybe 2%. I was more referring to if you had changed out all your gravel or made some other massive change to your tank that could be causing this.

I think the next step is for you to test your tap water directly for ammonia. Also, you should check the pH straight out of the tap as well as testing the pH once the water has been sitting (ie, in a bucket) for 24 hours.

If you want to keep altering the parameters of your water, in order to keep African cichlids, as opposed to keeping fish that are appropriate for a pH in the low 6's, I strongly suggest you get that seachem malawi/victoria buffer. It will not only alter your pH, it will also increase your gH and kH, both of which are important.

pH up (what you used) does nothing to address water hardness. It just increases pH. It's not a smart thing to use long term. The buffer I suggested is.

Just buy the buffer, get a set of measuring teaspoons (1/4, 1/2, full) and measure out how much buffer it takes to get a 5 gallon bucket up to about pH 8 and kH 7-10 (you'll need a kH test kit).

Then, every time you add a bucket of fresh tap water to your tank, dose that bucket with the correct amount of the buffer, and your fish will always be in the same water.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian086 View Post
The advice you offered was not the issue, the way you deliver it was.
If you don't tell me more specifically what you think I said wrong, I will continue to be at a loss in terms of understanding what you're referring to. IMO I didn't say anything wrong, and unless somebody points out something specifically that was wrong with what I said, I can't understand where you're coming from.
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Old 01-16-2014, 09:24 AM   #36
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I did go buy a 8.2 Lake malawi Buffer. Only one the fish store had. But I have been using that during water changes.

What do you suggest, I have a bucket just under 3Gallon. Should I go get a 5G bucket. But if I do get that how could I get the water back into the tank from the bucket without dumping it in?
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Old 01-17-2014, 01:43 AM   #37
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What do you suggest, I have a bucket just under 3Gallon. Should I go get a 5G bucket. But if I do get that how could I get the water back into the tank from the bucket without dumping it in?
I don't understand the question. You're going to be dumping it in.
Water changes are straight forward- remove water into buckets, dump out into toilet or bath-tub, fill buckets with tap water, dechlorinate, and then add and mix buffer, then pour into tank.
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Old 01-26-2014, 12:18 AM   #38
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I tested my tap water. And here the results

Ammonia-1ppm
Nitrite-0ppm
Nitrate-160ppm

What can I do to make this all better so I can make good water changes
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Old 01-26-2014, 12:23 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msalmony8688 View Post
I tested my tap water. And here the results

Ammonia-1ppm
Nitrite-0ppm
Nitrate-160ppm

What can I do to make this all better so I can make good water changes
You have 160ppm of nitrate in your tap water? I've never heard of tap water that high. That's quite high ammonia as well. I would say that if these are accurate results, you should not use this water with your fish, nor should you drink the water yourself.

160ppm is really past the 'unsafe' line for any fish. I think your only choice here is to invest in a reverse osmosis unit (RO/DI). It'll be beneficial both for yourself and your fish.

You'll need to use a product called R/O right to remineralize the water, as pure water with no TDS (total dissolved solids) is not good for fish. If you're keeping African cichlids you should also use a buffer like Seachem Malawi/Victoria buffer which will increase the pH to 7.8-8.2 as well as increase the kH.

It's not complicated once you start doing it, but I highly suggest you get the RO/DI unit. Even if you don't want to keep your fish, you should do it, for your own health. Don't drink that water straight from tap.

I suggest you buy a TDS meter

http://www.bigalspets.com/handheld-t...inyl-case.html

and an RO/DI unit

http://www.bigalspets.com/pure-flo-i...er-50-gpd.html

And these:

http://www.bigalspets.com/malawi-vic...er-1-2-kg.html

http://www.bigalspets.com/r-o-right-1-kg.html
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Old 01-26-2014, 12:30 AM   #40
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I'm sure I do the water tests right. I follow the instructions in the packet. But I will look into that.
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