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Old 07-22-2013, 09:37 PM   #11
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We're speaking of the sound as if the GFCI is doing its thing, but it isn't disconnecting the circuit? My first guess would be that the timer's mechanical components are waving adios to you.
Ok... So new timer it is. With all your experience, and good recommendations on a timer? This one lasted me about a year. I would imagine due to the power that is drawn from these high output lights? Should I get a non-electronic timer where you push the tabs down depending on what times you want? Or is there a juiced up timer I can get??
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:40 PM   #12
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What is the amp draw for your light?
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:42 PM   #13
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What is the amp draw for your light?
Errrrrrrr.... 8-/

It's a 216 watt light fixture...
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:56 PM   #14
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Thanks, I'd suggest Intermatic P1121 heavy duty, 15 amp outdoor - Amazon has them $21 (I think). The outdoor bit gets materials and design that are stouter than the run-of-the-mill. (I hope I'm remembering the model # - but the basics should get you there). Your fixture is drawing enough that the light duty wiring in the timer gets hot, the plastic warps and/or deforms and voila - mystery noises.
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:57 PM   #15
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Thanks, I'd suggest Intermatic P1121 heavy duty, 15 amp outdoor - Amazon has them $21 (I think). The outdoor bit gets materials and design that are stouter than the run-of-the-mill. (I hope I'm remembering the model # - but the basics should get you there). Your fixture is drawing enough that the light duty wiring in the timer gets hot, the plastic warps and/or deforms and voila - mystery noises.
Excellent... Thanks so much for your help with this! I'll chalk it up to a bad timer and replace it... I'll keep you updated if I have any more questions!
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:04 PM   #16
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Please do, I'm happy to help.
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:49 AM   #17
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Hey how do you figure out the amp draw?
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:28 PM   #18
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This isn't quite true for every load (motor, etc), but for this situation, it should be close: amps = watts/volts.

So, in this case, IF (note the big IF) we have 120 volts at the fixture plug, and the true wattage is 216, the amps should be just shy of 2. The usual problem is that the true numbers, as measued on the circuit, are different than what the label says we should find. A little corrosion and a loose connection somewhere and a Ĺ amp load is suddenly 3 amps - and every load creates heat - which is often not dissipated adequately.
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:32 PM   #19
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This isn't quite true for every load (motor, etc), but for this situation, it should be close: amps = watts/volts.

So, in this case, IF (note the big IF) we have 120 volts at the fixture plug, and the true wattage is 216, the amps should be just shy of 2. The usual problem is that the true numbers, as measued on the circuit, are different than what the label says we should find. A little corrosion and a loose connection somewhere and a Ĺ amp load is suddenly 3 amps - and every load creates heat - which is often not dissipated adequately.
Cool, thanks... So a 15 amp timer SHOULD suffice, eh?
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:56 PM   #20
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The wiring in a 15a timer, when it's new, is absolutely sufficient. Over time, a well made timer will be fine. The dollar store variety, not so much.
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