Wet/Dry for low tech

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dr_girlfriend

Aquarium Advice FINatic
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
738
Location
N. CA
I was wondering if anyone would think a wet/dry would be alright on a low tech tank? The tank has an overflow, but I am thinking that it will get clogged with plant material constantly.
 
I've heard (and been conviced) that an overflow box and sump will likely remove much if not all of the CO2 in teh water. Since it's low tech and I assume no injection, you would want to at least consider this (unless of course you plan on using Excel, but that's not exactly low-tech either!).
HTH
 
without injection turbulence is how more CO2 is introduced into the water (after the plants consume what is in the water) so the more turbulence the better.. a wet/dry in my opinion is going to be detrimental to a low tech tank.. most plants uptake ammonia first and have to convert NO3 back into ammonia to use it.. why not let the plants absorb the ammonia before it becomes NO3?
 
If I was to go low tech I would get a powerhead with a venturi valve for agitation and circulation..(I realize thats not very low tech but its not a filter..)
are you planing on going with 2wpg?
what kind of substrate layered?
how low do are you planning to go with the bio-load?
too many ????? :lol:
 
I'm not sure on the other details, my doctors office wants to know how much to convert from salt to fresh. I was going to suggest a low tech planted tank (well not completely low tech, no co2 and relativley low lighting), but I was wondering if I could just keep his wet dry or if I'll have to switch over to a canister.
I'm just thinking the force of the overflow would probably pull all the debris and suck them against the grate.
 
I would put a sponge prefilter on the stand pipe and use the current filtration.. the wet-dry would be good for a non-CO2 injected tank.. keeping the lights down between 1 and 2wpg. the canister is more of a consideration for conserving CO2 in a injected tank, turbulence is how more CO2 is introduced to a non-injected tank; as the CO2 is being consumed by the plants the aggitation is bringing a little more CO2 into the water coelom..
btw. I had a feeling you would be asking questions about your clients tanks :wink:
Great news on getting your first customer! :p :p Im a bit envious.. :oops:
 
btw. I had a feeling you would be asking questions about your clients tanks
Hehe, well....I'm pretty good with freshwater equip, but not alot of experience with salt equip. I'm just starting, be nice :D

Thanks for the congrats, I was so excited when they called!!!

I think he wants to not spend alot of money, thats why hes interested in fresh. I'm not even sure if he'll want live plants, but I'll try to push it (itll take longer maintenance wise ;) ) So I was going to try to save him some by keeping his wet dry.
No I dont know the diameter yet. I havent got a really detailed look at his equipment yet. Except that whatever genious piled all his electrical next to his open splashing wet/dry :roll: which looked all corroded (no suprise).
 
I was thinking of something like this..
That sounds like a fun job (I can only imagine what a saltwater tanks water would do to electrical equipment. :lol:)
 
I definitely think its alright to try it. Great biofilter doesn't hurt plants, as shown by many people having success with great filters on many types of tanks. Gas exchange, as mentioned, is a plus with no CO2 injection.

When you get around to checking his stuff, find out how quickly water returns from the wet/dry. If it used to be a reef tank you may need to turn down flow, or want a Thoene-style loach river tank (loaches.com). If whoever feeds checks the overflows at the same time, it will probably be enough to avoid complete blockage. ime sponges (and pantyhose) get complete blockage much too easily in planted tanks, and window mesh or notches/"teeth" work great when the drain diameter is oversized compared to return rate (weekly maint. or less).
 
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