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Old 08-13-2005, 01:42 PM   #11
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I would double up on the filtration, especially for Africans. A canister will be a good option. I am biased towards the Cascades. So you know which one I would recommend.
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Old 08-13-2005, 04:22 PM   #12
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Yep. I've been looking at Cascades. I's gonna be a while before I make a move so I'll have plenty of time to look more into each.
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Old 08-13-2005, 04:41 PM   #13
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If you have any questions regarding that line, let me know. I currently have 3 and love them.
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Old 08-14-2005, 10:10 PM   #14
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Well, just make sure your filter has a compartment for bilogic substrate that is independent from the mechanical and /or chemical filtration. You want to avoid a filter that has only one cartridge, so that throwing out the dirty sponge takes all your biosubstrate with it.

A wet dry filter is every bit as good or better at ammonia and nitrite removal as a canister, and can support a huge bioload. It has the advantage of extreme aeration! All that water trickling over the biologic media will aerate the water many fold greater than surface agitation could provide. Of course, if you like live plants, all your water's co2 will be aerated out too, so its not used in planted tanks. It will also likely be noisier than a canister (the sound of water trickling and gurgling). You can also DIY with wet dry filters, since they are basically all just a sump (bucket or smaller tank), overflow box in the tank (best to get a tank drilled with built in ones, IMO), and a pump to send water back into the tank. The water going into the sump is poured over the biologic media to provide the wet dry aeration.
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Old 08-15-2005, 10:37 AM   #15
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My wife's cousin builds his own wet/dry filters for his aquarium business so I may either get him to build me one or he may show me how to build my own. I'm up to 150 gallon now so I'm gonna need some major filtration.
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Old 08-15-2005, 10:46 AM   #16
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If you looking into getting a wet/dry for bio-filtration, if sized properly they dont need a backup, the surface area is very large and efficiency is great because they dont raleigh on dissolved O2 to work like canisters do..
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Old 08-15-2005, 05:56 PM   #17
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So if I plan on a big wet/dry I shouldn't/needn't worry about another filter. That would be much less expensive than buying a canister to go in there now wouldn't it? Everyone keeps telling me those wet/dry filters are less maintenance too, which would be a big selling point for the wife.
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Old 08-15-2005, 06:09 PM   #18
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Until recently I was using a TetraTec 500 (500gph) HOB filter, it has a built in Wet/Dry system. Over al I was very happy with it. It has the eas of HOB, it has the Wet/Dry, and it is set up to use four of the large filter bags, but you can easily pull out two of them and replace with some other media bags. All in all a nice system.
The down side, it they are noisy...all that water gurgling and splashing. Since I have a CO2 injected planted tank, I decided to replace this unit with a Canister filter (Fluval 303), which I am very happy with so far.
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:25 PM   #19
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You know. After all I've heard I'm still not sold on any filter. I've got the info I need to semi DIY a wet/dry with 6 gallons of bio-balls and 800+ gph for $200.00. I already have a Penguin 350 Biowheel filter and an AC 200 that I could slap on the back too. That would give me 1350 gph through a wet/dry and 2 HOBs. However, I realize it would/might be a little noisy. I'm worried about nitrate buildup with the wet/dry too. Is this a real problem?
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:28 PM   #20
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I guess I want a flat out answer on the filtration to use. I have read several times that wet/dry filters are the best. If that is so then that is what I want on this new "potential" aquarium>
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