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Old 03-25-2005, 03:27 AM   #11
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Thanks all, for the info. Very helpful...


Quote:
Originally Posted by czcz
I would lay the piping in a way so 20g could be disconnected at any time and used as an instant QT, but I happen to find shared water systems interesting.
That sounds like a great idea - I'll certainly keep that in mind...

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Originally Posted by czcz
Regardless, I think "best" is subjective and a couple canisters is no worse or better than a sump. DIY just allows you to design according to your needs, get your hands wet, and learn in the process.
Agreed, and learning is always good, but it's hard to know how to proceed when I don't know what my needs *are*.

Thanks again...
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Old 03-25-2005, 04:22 AM   #12
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Quote:
it's hard to know how to proceed when I don't know what my needs *are*.
For what its worth, I think thats the best reason to DIY. For example, I built my sump to increase water volume and to learn (I am very inexperienced). After experimenting and reading about my fish's natural enviornment, it was easy to adapt to a high one-way current and oxygenation system, . In your system, you could change media layout, flowrate, wetdry system, etc to your fish. Further, since big tank will be in wall, you could keep sump in adjacent room for easy water changes, filter upkeep/changes, water testing, etc. Of course, you could also do this with creative plumbing system and products recommended by TG and malkore. Just more ideas.

HTH
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Old 03-25-2005, 02:01 PM   #13
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I'd have to recoment runing a pair of Eheim Pro II Thermofilters canister filters. They cost more but I feel they are worth the investment. Running two 2128s might be a little over kill, but to much filtration is never a bad thing.
Another bonus is that they have the heater built in. One less thing to wory about.

Thermo Version
2126 ~ 2128
For aquariums up to (US gallons): 92 Gal. ~ 158 Gal.
Pump output (US GPH): 251 GPH ~ 277 GPH
Filter circulation (US GPH): 172 GPH ~ 198 GPH
Delivery head (wc/ft.) : 6' 7" ~ 6' 7"
Filter volume (US gallons): 1.3 Gal. ~ 1.9 Gal.
Power consumption : 25 W ~ 25 W
Heating power: 180 W ~ 210 W
Filter Height : 14.8" ~ 17.9"
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Old 03-25-2005, 04:23 PM   #14
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Thanks for the info. Those stats bring up some issues that perhaps I need clarification on...

For 125gal tank, I had thought that I'd be shooting for around 600W of heating power (5x125=625, rounded down to 600W since 300W heaters are common). Since 2 of the larger canisters are only 420W (2x210), would that be sufficient?

Essentially the same question about the filtration - I was under the impression that I should move 5-10 times the tank capacity every hour... That would range between 625 and 1250 GPH. Would roughly 400GPH (2x198) be enough filtration for a 125G tank?

I'm certainly not arguing with the suggestion - I'm just trying to clarify the things that I've read....

Thanks again...
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Old 03-25-2005, 06:34 PM   #15
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A UV sterilizer is not required. merely optional. Probalby shouldn't have even mentioned it.
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Old 03-25-2005, 07:15 PM   #16
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Sumps are great, increase tank volume (not that you need one with a 125!), and are fantastic oxygenators with wet dry, and nitrate factories (ammonia metabolism fantastically efficient). They usually are louder, expensive to buy, not too difficult to build. The easiest way to go is with canisters, but if you go sump get a tank with built in overflow boxes, it will simplify having a sump.

I like sumps for FW. I will likely build one some day. Till then its canisters. A built in 125 would be fantastic, good luck!
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Old 03-29-2005, 05:04 PM   #17
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You are correct about tank capacity turnover, and keep in mind that the rate given for a filter is based on being run without media, so factor than in when making your choice.
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