Chris' 40g breeder upgrade

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Otto99

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Jul 22, 2013
Messages
65
Location
Delaware
I took advantage of Petco's dollar/gallon sale and picked up a 40b a couple weeks ago. I originally was going to get a 55g (bigger is better, right!), but after doing a lot of research I went with the more popular 40b. I've had a standard 29g fowlr up and running for a little over a year and have gotten bored with it. My plan for this upgrade is to venture into reef and move existing live rock and stock into the new tank. This past week I ordered and received a Tao Tronics TT-AL09 led light. I also converted (braced) an old tv stand for the base and built a canopy to match. Next up is building a custom 20g long sump and running plumbing. I'm still debating on drilling the tank. I really want to but no lfs does it around here (northern Delaware). Glass shops want $20/hole which seems high. Worst case scenario is going with a CPR hob overflow. I plan on a 700gph over flow with a mag7 return pump. With my 2 hydor koralia 425's, that should provide good flow. Any and all advice is welcome. ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1421004680.832594.jpgImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1421004695.465334.jpgImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1421004707.365290.jpgImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1421004721.532064.jpg


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What's everyone's opinion on moving current live rock and such into the new tank? I'd like to use all of my current live rock and then gradually add about 10-20 more pounds of cured live rock from my lfs. My main concern is the sand. From what I've read, it's not worth transferring my old sand. Will I have to cycle the new tank if I add new live sand? Should I get dry sand instead?
 
I don't see a problem transferring your live rock or sand as long as you rinse the sand out really good.

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Thanks for the advise guys. I'm going to use new sand when the time comes. Have a minor setback right now. The tv stand I modified has a hump in the middle of the top board the tank sits on. Gonna see what I can do, but may just start a new stand from scratch.

Sniperhank, if I'm not mistaken, I saw in your 55 build thread you used a cpr siphon overflow. What are your thoughts on it? Have you had any issues with loss of syphon? I'm leaning towards the Glass-Holes.com 700gph all in one overflow and return, but I'm a little nervous about drilling.


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I do have an old 10g I can practice drilling on ?


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Had off work for my birthday on Friday, so went to Lowe's and got some 2x4's. Took a part of the day and started my new stand. Also got the glass baffles for the sump cut. Will work on finishing the stand this coming weekend. Just plan on wrapping in lawan and trimming with 1x4 and staining to match the canopy.

Also will be ordering a 700gph overflow box off eBay or Amazon this week, and will drill the tank myself. Wish me luck! ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1421636817.037168.jpg


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One thing you might want to look into is how your lighting is mounted. I had a similar idea to mount my lights when I dreamed of a hood, but to prevent them from rusting I was going to spray coat them in something to prevent such or even simply get them coated in rubber. Just something to think about.
 
I will be using black Rustoleum to paint the back of the tank. That would work on the light bracing too wouldn't it?


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Here's my 20g long sump design. Please critique any issues or concerns. The plan is to drill the over flow using the Herbie method with a 700gph overflow box. I'm leaning towards the Bubble Magnus Curve 5 skimmer and an Eheim 3000 Compact return pump.

ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1421771151.984750.jpg


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There's no need for eggcrate going into the refugium. You'd only need it coming out to prevent anything from floating off and into your pump...but you don't even need that, though a decent precaution.


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Sump work has commenced. 3 baffles down, 1 to go. ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1421894649.085552.jpg


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I'm currently at the same stage as you for my 40. I originally got a 700gph overflow box and was planning on doing the herbie method. The box was too small so had to upgrade to have both intakes in the box. What size pipes are you using for the primary and emergency drain?
 
I'm still undecided in which size bulkheads to use in the overflow. I've read that two 1" will do well for 700gph. I've also read that bigger is better and you can control the flow easier with a gate valve if you wanted to do 1.5" bulkheads in the overflow.

I'm on a shoestring budget with this build so I'm leaning more towards the CPR90 deluxe overflow. I can get that and my return pump for just about the price of the custom overflow and return route I was planning.


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What kind of overflow did you get? I was looking at the Glass-Holes 700gph overflow and return kit.


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I bought the cpr internal overflow box rated for 120 gallons because it was 7-1/4" long so it could fit both bulkheads and still have room to get in there. The first box was only about 5" wide or something and wouldn't fit both bulk heads in it. I went with sc80 pvc which is bigger and a little more industrial than the regular sc40 so that might have been a reason I couldn't fit them and I also didn't want to drill holes too close. I ended up doing 3/4" for the primary with a spears gate valve on it and a 1" emergency. On Reef central a saw a lot of 40B with herbie methods with 3/4 primary and hope it's still effective with the larger overflow box.

Here's a pic of just my bulkheads and elbows in. The overflow box should be coming in soon

ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1421947105.211213.jpg
 
Ok...I'm not the best carpenter in the world, let alone the room. But there's no way this gap between the stand and the tank should exist. It's perfect everywhere else around the tank but this one corner. Any advice before I deconstruct the stand? It's no more than 1/8" gap. ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1421987880.826968.jpgImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1421987896.377030.jpg


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Take the tank off and take a hammer and swing underneath to bring the corner up. The screws will still be anchored strong and it will still be even. Hope that makes sense
 
Actually it looks like you do that then your load baring legs won't fit snug underneath the top frame. I would still give it a shot tho
 
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