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Old 03-24-2004, 05:41 PM   #1
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Update on tank with pics

Well after some major struggling and obscene tank problems (tanks busted a seam, machine probs causing overflow, the use of the S.O.S. overflow tube (been replaced by a cylindrical U-tube), and freakin' WHITE planaria my tank is now reaching back to normal. Unbelievably, even after the exitworm was used, and the planaria had not shown up for months, I saw one crawling around to taunt me. I guess I'll have to take care of it later... for now my corals are in a friends awesome tank, and my own just houses my base rocks (about 50 pounds of it). Anyway here are some pics.

so thats basically everything. ketting my tank pan out water chemsitry-wise. The salinity is at 1.023-1.0235, and my new salifert tests were borrowed by my friend holfing my babies (corals) so I should get the tests back today to see where I stand on magnesium, calcium, and pH levels.

A warning to those who have a flat overflow tube... they trap air. I used the S.O.S. for about 2 months and I constantly had to re-siphon the thing... no mater how well the siphoning went.. the air would be right back. When I purchased a U-tube, I have never had a problem since. The air that does get in there goes right on through the tube with no hesitation.

The water going through the tube, after passing through the overflow ends up being led into a tupperware container I screwed to the side of the 18G rubbermaid roughneck refugium. I drilled holes at the bottom for the water to seep though. On the flooring of the tupperware container is micro-filament for physical filtration, and lying on top of it is a bag of GAC (for the time being). I needed the GAC to clear up my tank after setting it back up and it has done wonders. I will run GAC every now and then and do water changed. I do have a skimmer, decent and all, but I find it too inefficient, and the Maxi1200 is put to better use in the main display with the other two Maxi900's.

The refugium has a 300 watt heater with about 20 pounds of base rock. The one good thing about my tank is that it is constantly exploding out copepods. I have a large piece of chaeto in the display for now (the halide is being used for it for the time being). Water flow from the return is about 230 GPH, which is fine with my because of the slow flow needed in the refugium. Also in the refugium is the float switch for the 5 gallon container next to it.. an auto top-off.
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Old 03-24-2004, 05:42 PM   #2
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more pics
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Old 03-25-2004, 02:27 PM   #3
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looks like a nice set up. nice rock work too. cant wait to see it with corals etc.
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Old 03-26-2004, 09:14 AM   #4
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yeah me neither! As long as its been, plus the corals I have are my babies! Thus far I have a purple and yellow hammers, the purple being branching the yellow not. A baby frogspawn, a green tree leather, some ricordea, some zoo's and I think thats about it.
As of right now I am trying the kalkwasser with vinegar method to boost the calcium to 420 (its currently at 260), and the magnesiun level to 1300 (its at 870). The magnesium will take about 9 more days to get it where I want to, but I am not sure about the calcium levels. What also worries me is what caused the levels to be so low in the first place? And once I get those levels to normal (Alk is at 11) will they stay there or will they drop like a mother?
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Old 03-26-2004, 09:33 AM   #5
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how did you hook up your auto top-off. any directions?

thanks!
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Old 03-26-2004, 10:08 AM   #6
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it was very easy to do, very minimal sodering. Basically get a container to be your auto top-off, a powerhead/pump, a 7 dollar float switch off ebay (the cheapest I found) and a hose (that will go from the pump/powerhead to the sump/tank). You'll also need some extra wire and for a clean job some shrink tube.

After you get your materials, fetch the tools: sodering stuff and sissors, and if possible (to make your life easier) a wire stripper.

After getting everything, you need to take the powerheads powercord and cut EITHER the positive or the negative completely. PLEASE remember that its not both wires, just ONE. Please also remember you'll want to cut more towards the middle, so the rest of the length of the power cord can actually reach the outlet BUT no so the cut you make is in the conatiner full of whatever you want to refill!.
After the cut, you'll need to get the shrink tube put it over the wire (you won't be using it yet, but you need to have it on the wire, to the side so you can actually shrink tube the complete job after you soder. Wire strip both ends of the cut of either the positive or the negative wire you had just cut. You now have to bare ends of the wires facing eachother.
Take the extra wire you have and measure out how far is the sump or container you want refilled to the cut powercord? This is where the float switch you have will be attached. In my case I didn't need extra wire because my container is right next to the sump, so it only had to travel like 6 inches. After you soder the ends of the float switch to whatever connects the powercord wires (either the powercord itsself, or wires that eventually leads to the cut powercord), you'll then need to shrink tube your work. You now have a set up.. and just need to install the actual float switch however high from the container you want your water level at.

A NOTE: Find out how much water you actually lose in a day and make that the measuring tool for how big of a container you want as your auto top-off. For instance... I have a 45 gallon tank with an 18 gallon refugium, and I lose about a gallon a day. I should be using a 10 gallon container so i can feel safe for about 8 days or so (should I ever need to leave for a vacation or soemthing). It also minimizes the work of whomever you have to watch over your tank.
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Old 03-26-2004, 10:23 AM   #7
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here are some pics. You can see one wire cut (not two) and the two ends that have a red wire attched to each end. both ends of the wire are sodered to the powercord wire. the red wires lead to the float switch that you can see on the side.
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