Black Neon breeding?

[Darkfalcon]

Anyone has any kind of experience with them?? I never have any experience nor looking into it in the internet. So I decided to ask you guys here about this first, while surfing the net for this matter.

Since it is neon but with different color, I guess they have the same rules, etc as blue & red (regular) neon right??

 

[Nils]

All I know is that the tetras drop their eggs and then the eggs get fertilized, so they aren't live bearers. Black neons and regular neons are different species but breeding should be similar. Black and whatever other "neons" there are aren't just different color forms, they're different species.

 

[Darkfalcon]

All I know is that the tetras drop their eggs and then the eggs get fertilized, so they aren't live bearers. Black neons and regular neons are different species but breeding should be similar. Black and whatever other "neons" there are aren't just different color forms, they're different species.

Ah... So they're different species. I thought they're the same species with different color variety lol xD.

 

[henningc]

Egg scatters. Just like the rest

 

[Tropical Aquarist]

Yeah 2 complete different species, However one of the most challenging fish to breed! Tetras in general are not that easy, barbs and danios are much easier.

 

[Darkfalcon]

Yeah 2 complete different species, However one of the most challenging fish to breed! Tetras in general are not that easy, barbs and danios are much easier.

Yea danios are easy. I've done them once. But I'm not sure about black neons, have you tried breeding them before??

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[Tropical Aquarist]

Nope, but from what I read it's incredibly difficult.

 

[Coursair]

From Wiki :
"Black neon tetras can be spawned rather easily if the water quality is right. Before attempting to breed the black neon tetra, condition the prospective parents with good food. Fish of about one year old are suitable for breeding. The sex of the fish can be determined by its body shape, the female being much deeper in the body than the male.

Although the black neon tetra can be kept in water harder and more alkaline than its natural habitat, for breeding it is necessary to get closer to what it would get in the Amazon. Breeding the black neon tetra requires acidic water with no more than four degrees of hardness. Use dim lighting.

The black neon tetra is an egg scatterer, laying adhesive (sticky) eggs over plants, etc. One female can produce several hundred eggs. The parents will eat their own eggs and babies, so it is normal to remove the parents after spawning. As with many fish, The black neon tetra often spawns in the early morning. Raising the fry can be more difficult because of their small size. The first food will normally be protozoa (infusoria). Very fine fry food can be used, graduating to slightly coarse fry food. At all ages, the black neon tetra benefits from suitably sized live food."

You need to condition breeding fish with live food ahead of time.




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[Arthur75]

I can say something to neon, P. innesi.
Breed approach in the pelvis, about 30 liters. It is good when several approaches are. The bottom of the glass should be painted with black lacquer exterior. Inside should be a suitable spawning grate. I've made Glastreifen with silicone adhesive as a fitting platform and on a plastic sieve cloth mesh size approximately 1 to 1.5 mm. In the middle of a clean spawning should be plant. The water is soft (dgH6 °) and be slightly peaty. Whether the females are spawning ripe can be viewed. They chase each other.
It is good if 2 to 3 are male.
If they are desinterested and standing together, then the spawning is complete. The females are now slim.
Now the parents have to be removed. The spawning grate well.
After some time, the grains must be controlled. Glassy grains are fertilized. Unfertilised are white. These must be removed (pipette). It arises as a ray fungus that infects the good grains. The black color under the glass floor you can see it well.
When this is done by, the basin should be darkened slightly. The eggs develop. there are Larfen. then hanging around on the discs.
They have a yolk sac, which reaches about 10 hours. Then powdered food from pond must be there. The Larfen peel away and swim across the pool. It must be fed carefully. (Finely sieved). Not too much.
After a week Artemia can be fed..

 

[Darkfalcon]

I can say something to neon, P. innesi.
Breed approach in the pelvis, about 30 liters. It is good when several approaches are. The bottom of the glass should be painted with black lacquer exterior. Inside should be a suitable spawning grate. I've made Glastreifen with silicone adhesive as a fitting platform and on a plastic sieve cloth mesh size approximately 1 to 1.5 mm. In the middle of a clean spawning should be plant. The water is soft (dgH6 °) and be slightly peaty. Whether the females are spawning ripe can be viewed. They chase each other.
It is good if 2 to 3 are male.
If they are desinterested and standing together, then the spawning is complete. The females are now slim.
Now the parents have to be removed. The spawning grate well.
After some time, the grains must be controlled. Glassy grains are fertilized. Unfertilised are white. These must be removed (pipette). It arises as a ray fungus that infects the good grains. The black color under the glass floor you can see it well.
When this is done by, the basin should be darkened slightly. The eggs develop. there are Larfen. then hanging around on the discs.
They have a yolk sac, which reaches about 10 hours. Then powdered food from pond must be there. The Larfen peel away and swim across the pool. It must be fed carefully. (Finely sieved). Not too much.
After a week Artemia can be fed..

Can I use a medicine instead to prevent the fungus from growing on the dead eggs? Because it's going to probably kind of hard to find the dead eggs... As for the substrate, should I use the black gravel? Cover the tank with something so that the tank will have almost no light. Cover the water surface entirely with mini water lettuce and put a light on top of the tank to light the lettuce??

 

[Arthur75]

For breeding the Neon only bare glass aquariums are used. The floor is painted black on the outside. This makes it easier to read the eggs. Little or no light during egg development. You can apply to the fungus methylene blue. But it's better without. More certainty that the next generation is fertile.

It is not known if have been in established aquariums with gravel successes.

 

[Darkfalcon]

For breeding the Neon only bare glass aquariums are used. The floor is painted black on the outside. This makes it easier to read the eggs. Little or no light during egg development. You can apply to the fungus methylene blue. But it's better without. More certainty that the next generation is fertile.

It is not known if have been in established aquariums with gravel successes.

I see, I guess I'll just go on with that bare glass aquariums. And about the eggs, do they just scatter on the floor? Will the neons eat their eggs/frys?

 

[Arthur75]

You must have a spawning grate. Without this all the eggs would eat.

 

[Tropical Aquarist]

Yes they do eat the eggs! Like Arthur said, make a spawning grate and only have 2 inches of water above it so the eggs just fall for a short time till they are safe! The parents will literally fertilize the eggs them immediately turn around and start eating them!

I use Needlepoint to make the grate it's available at craft stores very cheap! Google it to see what it looks like....

 

[Darkfalcon]

You must have a spawning grate. Without this all the eggs would eat.

Is it something like this??

http://www.dfwgrating.com/images/grating-products/bar-grating.jpg

 

[Arthur75]

I try to describe it,
Spawning grid:
Glass strips about 1 inch wide, glue together with silicone as a framework.
It must fit exactly into the basin. Gap max 1 mm. It must be easy to remove, but the fish are not allowed to go under. Up on the edge of the glass strip, glue thin plastic mesh , mesh size from 1 to 1.5 mm. (As with the Fish net)

 

[Darkfalcon]

I try to describe it,
Spawning grid:
Glass strips about 1 inch wide, glue together with silicone as a framework.
It must fit exactly into the basin. Gap max 1 mm. It must be easy to remove, but the fish are not allowed to go under. Up on the edge of the glass strip, glue thin plastic mesh , mesh size from 1 to 1.5 mm. (As with the Fish net)

I can get the idea. So I've searched the net and found something like this
https://fishtanx.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/dscf2698.jpg

If it's something like this, I think I can search around some stores, they must have some. But what I don't understand is how it works.... Is it something like this?

The fish will spawn the eggs and they will drop through the grid and stays at the bottom. After this what should I do? Wait the eggs until they hatch? Or remove the spawners/parents, remove the grids and throw away the bad eggs, then wait for them to spawn? Or maybe something else?

Sorry I'm super newbie when it comes to egg laying fishes (the scatterer one). Even the ones who didn't scatter their eggs are kind of hard for me

 

[declaringhornet]

Hello

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[Darkfalcon]

Hello

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Hello to you too

 

[Arthur75]

If the fish are spawning mature that they can see. The females have thick bellies and the fish are interested in each other. This means they hunt itself in the community tank.
In the prepared basin they put in the forenoon a the female.
That evening before the lights go out, insert the two males.
At the other tomorrow they will spawn.
Then they are no longer interested in each other. Are exhausted.
Then remove the fish, take the plant a spawning or green wool out. Take out the spawning grid.
So, now is only water in it and the eggs. It takes an hour or two until you can distinguish the grains on the color. Then the eggs are read. Other particles (faeces). It must be completely clean. Then cover to the basin of paper. The eggs develop into larvae. The next day, you can look at how it looks. Not too long lit until the larvae hang on the discs.