Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community

Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community (
-   Saltwater & Reef - Getting Started (
-   -   Tim's 75 Gallon reef build (

spoonman 03-02-2012 05:44 PM

Spoonman's 75 Gallon reef build
4 Attachment(s)
Well, I got the rock from the guy this morning. In case you haven't seen it on my other thread, I bought this set up for $500 with 100 pounds live rock, live sand, tank, overflow, eight bulb t5ho and 40 gallons sump. I am picking up the rest of the tank and stand and everything tomorrow. I am going to take it to my local fish store and have them drill the bottom of the tank and put in a Durso standpipe. All the rock has been cured so I have it in buckets in my garage with salt water and power heads to keep the water moving. Is it okay to not have heaters in with the powerheads in the live rock? Here is the original craigslist ad and some pictures of the progress so far.

75 gallon Salt Water Fish Tank

Here is the rock

Attachment 80179

Attachment 80180

Here is the eight bulb light

Attachment 80181

Attachment 80182

4 x 10000k and 4 x actinics. Will have lots more pics tomorrow of the picking up and dropping off at the LFS.

spoonman 03-02-2012 08:40 PM

The rock is going to be in my garage in the buckets for a couple weeks. Do I need to put heaters in them or will they be ok without? I have powerheads in them. It gets down to about 50 degrees at night here right now.

Hondatek 03-03-2012 02:56 PM

Yes put a heater in there.

spoonman 03-04-2012 02:13 AM

Sump question
I got the sump and the rest of the tank stuff today. I dropped off the tank to get drilled and will have it later this week. My question pertains to the sump. Pictured is the way he had it set up.

He had the water from the tank going into the left side with no filter socks or anything. Water then flowed through the middle refugium part with the skimmer on the outside of the refugium pulling water from the fuge area. Then over the top and into the right compartment with the return pump back to the DT. I am thinking to move the 2 baffles on the left side about 3 inches to the right and putting the return pump in there. This would put the water coming from the DT in the right side through filter sock and will also have the skimmer in the sump in that same section. Then through the fuge and on to the left side which would be the return pump section and back to the DT. Make sense? Is there a better idea? Please help me out with this. I want the skimmer in the sump, not hanging off the side. Thanks all!

spoonman 03-04-2012 03:31 PM

New sump design
I think I am going to take all the dividers out and cut them down and reuse them. Here is my new design. Is this good or should I make some changes? I am going to get the materials and start building it tomorrow. Input will be appreciated. Thanks!

carey 03-04-2012 04:14 PM

make sure you have enough space for the skimmer. it looks like 10 x 10 now? Thats barely big enough. :-)

spoonman 03-04-2012 05:01 PM

The skimmer/filter sock section will be 10"x14" and 10" deep. The tank is 36"Lx14"Wx18"H.

spoonman 03-05-2012 07:31 PM

Any other opinions on the sump? Gonna start putting it together tomorrow.

spoonman 03-05-2012 11:16 PM

This tank is going to have a 1" drain out the bottom of the tank and a 3/4" return. I have a 1100gph return pump. Is this going to be too much? Should I put an inline ball valve on the drain or return to tune the sump system?

mfdrookie516 03-06-2012 07:41 AM

A 1" pipe is rated at about 600gph. I'm not sure why they do 1" on these tanks... my 72 has the same setup. You can either go down to about 550 gph max after head height, or you can use the return bulkhead as another drain as well and add a few hundred gph to the overflow capacity, then bring the return up over the back. I think that's how I'm going to do mine. A ball valve is definitely a good idea though. I'd put a check valve and a ball valve above the return pump no matter what. Even if you don't need to restrict the flow, its good to have in case you do. The check valve ($6, $7 from home depot) will restrict the flow some, but it'll also keep water from siphoning back when you kill the pump. You still want to drill a couple safety anti-siphon holes in the return line just below the surface, but I love having the check valve to keep it from draining off the few gallons it would otherwise (unless/until it fails).

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:25 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.