Caliban07
Aquarium Advice Addict
Why would it crash though? Just because of your acidic tap water? How long has it taken so far?
My tap is mildly alkiline (about 7.2-7.3) with basically no buffer (kH). The chemical reaction for NH3/NH4->NO2->NO3 uses up calcium carbonate and in a water with no buffer, it will cause the pH to start dropping rapidly.Why would it crash though? Just because of your acidic tap water? How long has it taken so far?
Thank you for your replyA crashing ph can be normal in fishless cycling when your water is on the acidic side with low Kh hardness. Keep an eye on it so it doesn't drop any further. Once your cycle has finished do a large 90% change.
Keeping to a regular water change routine will prevent ph swings once your fish are added. Slowly, plants and even algae will eat away at buffers in the water so if regular water changes to increase them arnt preformed your ph could slowly drop. If they do regress over timeand you arnt preforming water changes regularly, a single large single water change to swing your ph and be detrimental to the fish.
I think one thing we have to remember in all of this is that this cycle is going to be different for everyone.
Even if new instructions are provided. We are adding many more instructions that could make this even more confusing that it gets to the point of 'not being worth it' if you understand my thinking. We are trying to get the fastest cycling instructions which is ultimately supposed to be beneficial to the newbie. As tap water ph,kh, ammonia nitrites and nitrates are different, adding instructions that require people to add certain amounts of limestone, peat moss baking soda meaning buying another test kit and trying to keep these constant is going to prove very tough indeed. If people's tap water contains more ammonia than most it will ultimately effect the total free ammonia etc. It seems to me that no one cycle is going to be the same.
I'm not trying to put a downer on this experiment because I am very interested in the results. If I could obtain pure ammonia I would be carrying out my own version of the test.
At least we could help explain why people's cycles may be experiencing difficulty though.
I am totally on board with you. OK... 75% on board with you. I think it's *maybe* ok to have alterations that still include the basic tests in the master test kit (of which pH is one)
However at the moment, I'm not pushing for or even trying to implement changes to the cycling processes.
What i DO seek to do at present is challenge the questions,
Does high ammonia stall the cycle? (We are both finding no, it does not, if only because the fishless cycle never reaches the levels of FREE AMMONIA NH3 that would cause a stall)
Does high nitrites stall the cycle? (to be determined)
What I DO want to do with the current fishless cycle instructions is hep newbies to stop doing water changes. I see a lot of people frustrated about water changes during the fishless cycling process. Honestly one of the perks of a fishless cycle (to me) is not having to stay madly on top of my parameters and perform a bunch of water changes. I think this actually WOULD simplify things.
If our experiments yield changes that we can agree *may* be practical, I'd still be trying to distill it to its simplest, least confusing element.
For example, you and I are discussing the optimal pH that I should run the experiments with. But obviously trying to teach some newbie to cycle, we're not going to be telling them to add baking soda etc to be at some particular pH. That's just way too confusing. Keeping it simple is best. I believe we are both on the same page with that.
A couple more questions I have been thinking about.
What happens to heterotrophic bacteria in a fishless cycle that ultimately bypasses the organic matter that they require. They are going to feed on the organics in the initial filling water but what happens when they run out. Go dormant I guess? I know that some strains can consume ammonia but way way slower than nitrifying Bactria.
I've even read that article but missed that tidbit, although I vaguely feel I have read about this.Also therenjen. Are you aware of phosphate block? Do a quick google search this is interesting and explains why some people recommend adding fish food to the cycle also, this would then of course affect true ammonia dosing.
Yeah but I think it's easier as a task to say "add 1/4 tsp baking soda" rather than "do a 50% water change" as far as actual work. Adding baking soda takes mere minutes. So we can still make it all easier on them.Absolutely we are challenging the rules but water if the newbie is trying to cycle but has very acidic water. Without doing a water change are they not in danger of ph crash?
Well I shall work on itNo I am well in to this now I'm quite excited about getting somewhere with it. What I am interested is getting a more EFFICIENT fishless cycle. And I an convinced this would be the low dosing method which would not require water changes as readings should always be readable if you get me. I could be wrong though.
I'd say it's generally fitting in, but it might be going a bit faster.Every article I have read states that's ammonia reduction starts around 12 days. Yours is fitting in with this right?
I'm not sure that an initial dose value of ammonia was given.
My fish in cycle in a 15 gallon tank with 4 harlequin rasbora took a month. API test kit always read 0.25ppm ammonia. But I also had a seachem safe start that had a reading of 0.025ppm ammonia and it was matching this.
I'm thinking that the API was reading some ammonia but total ammonia and this was the only colour it could go 0.25ppm.
So 5% of that would be 0.00125ppm ammonia and must have been why the seachem ammonia alert was reading 0.025ppm yellow and 'safe'. Because that's the only colour it could go.
Totally off topic and ignore of you want but the more we get in to this the more it's convincing me that fish in cycling is very harshly treated.
I guess I just don't consider water changing a very simple task, as compared to dropping in a flake of food or pinch of baking soda or what have you. In my 90 it's a fairly time consuming task to change water. If someone had told me I could just add a pinch of baking soda and walk away, I'd be counting my blessings!
I would guess the bacteria just goes dormant, but I haven't read much about heterotrophic bacteria since it's not the primary stuff in our cycle right? That's the autotrophic bacteria?
I feel I've heard/read that bacterial additives often don't work because they are heterotrophic bacteria and they can't latch on and reproduce?
That would actually be 0.0125 caliban
Fishless cycling only gets a bad name through people who neglect the water change and often thats beginners, this is my particular driving force behind suggesting fishless cycling.
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Bed time. Night to you both. Btw molli I agree newbies do make mistakes. Some people accuse fish in cyclers of being inhumane and that I don't think is true. Explaining this evidence to these people would be pointless but it gives me piece of mind
Lights out. Zzz
Well im actually one of those people but i can understand in some aspects when its presented by someone who knows how it should be preformed. I still think fishin should be kept to a minimum for new comers to an extent and more for people who understand the chemistry.
I think suggesting fish in cycles to some beginners is a bad idea as beginners (not all) attempting fish in cycles have more of a tendancy not to undertake or even know when to undertake a water change when it's needed and dont follow it. Usually its the more mature new keepers that want to learn and proform it to a higher standard. Fishless is obviously more forgiving where fishin can be fatal or very unkind if not preformed properly and this is another reason i suggest fishless cycles. Fish are beautiful and patience is a virtue and in my case i found my patience grew with age.
If suggesting a fishless cycle to beginner saves lives why not be passionate about.
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