ericwithac
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I have two DBTs, well I HAD two...see my post in planted tanks to see what happened to it...
Most important thing for freshwater tanks
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I have two DBTs, well I HAD two...see my post in planted tanks to see what happened to it...
ericwithac
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rockyofhockey
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That's awesome I really like that!!! You got dwarf sag that fast?
Rockyofhockey _/.\_
ericwithac
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I walked into our LFS for something else and they were unpacking a plant shipment. They had 6 dwarf sags, i took 4 lol
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rockyofhockey
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Haha!! Get prepared for a lot of trimming wants those Guys get used to your tank!!!
Rockyofhockey _/.\_
Fresh2o
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I did not recognize the dwarf sag due to leaf shape. Then I realized it is the form it takes when grown at or above the waterline. This is a common practice with growers because they can get faster results (more CO2, better light penetration).
While it transitions to its submerged form, don't be surprised if the oval tipped leaves melt. This is normal.
This is a versatile plant and can be grown outdoors, even year round in many cases.
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While it transitions to its submerged form, don't be surprised if the oval tipped leaves melt. This is normal.
This is a versatile plant and can be grown outdoors, even year round in many cases.
Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
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rockyofhockey
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I did not recognize the dwarf sag due to leaf shape. Then I realized it is the form it takes when grown at or above the waterline. This is a common practice with growers because they can get faster results (more CO2, better light penetration).
While it transitions to its submerged form, don't be surprised if the oval tipped leaves melt. This is normal.
This is a versatile plant and can be grown outdoors, even year round in many cases.
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Yes u are exactly correct!! Once it gets used to your tank it will start to look more like grass!!! But still a beautiful plant!
Rockyofhockey _/.\_
ericwithac
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Good to know! Thanks all!
In Soviet Russia iPhone You!!
In Soviet Russia iPhone You!!
Gillie
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Just be sure to trim the emersed growth as it starts to yellow, the plants will put a lot of energy into trying to keep those leaves alive when it should all be directed at submersed growth.
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ericwithac
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rockyofhockey
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Trainer_Ruby_
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I think the most important thing is make sure all the fish can live together happily. You can have the cleanest water but it doesn't matter if the fish are fighting or stressed
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rockyofhockey
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But if the water is clean, then how can the fish not be stressed??? ???
Rockyofhockey _/.\_
J.Mcpeak
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Ummm, yes it does! The best filtration system does all of these things!
A combined external and/or DSB.
After particulates;
Ammonia and nitrite will be dealt with at the biological media stage in most external canisters. (Except for the cycling phase)
A decent substrate depth can (and does) remove nitrate.
I have done this a few times in different tanks.
There are several ways to achieve this;
Internal, this is just a thick layer, 1" sand 3"+ substrate.
Separate in sump, not common anymore, same basic principle as above.
Remote, basically a sump with one function.
All involve the use of deep substrate.
(Currently experimenting with a remote model)
Having said that, the best thing for a freshwater tank is "fresh" water!
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rockyofhockey
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mineral replenishment and to keep a steady ph is a few. Most of us don't run a sump with plants.
J.Mcpeak
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Exactly this!
(Planted sump is another method, haven't tried this, YET!)
Most filters only deal with the nitrogen cycle up to nitrate, the rest is up to you.
You can deal with nitrate in several ways but even if you test 0 for ammonia nitrite and nitrate, you will never escape the need to change water! You may increase the timeframe, but as I said before, the best thing really is fresh water!
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rockyofhockey
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Exactly this!
(Planted sump is another method, haven't tried this, YET!)
Most filters only deal with the nitrogen cycle up to nitrate, the rest is up to you.
You can deal with nitrate in several ways but even if you test 0 for ammonia nitrite and nitrate, you will never escape the need to change water! You may increase the timeframe, but as I said before, the best thing really is fresh water!
I mean I'm sure it works great but I don't have a dump on my planted 40 but I mean if your water is great then you must be doing it right !!!!! Haha good job
Rockyofhockey _/.\_
J.Mcpeak
Aquarium Advice Addict
Cheers but I don't have a sump on any tank.
Most of my tanks were built before I even knew what a sump really was!
I'm Using sand and internal filters on one tank.
(Medium planted low tech) normal stock. (8 fish 110 litre) all catfish. Glass cats and 2 plecs, one is growing out here.
This doesn't even conform to the accepted convention, the sand layer is 1" or less but it has a flow rig in that may be affecting things? That or the few rocks? Only two are on the floor, one is on the rig (weighs it down) with good space below.
Not sure, all I know is it always reads low! It normally only gets frozen food.
I only clean this tank to remove the ridiculous amount of plec poo! If it's left, the readings are low 0-3ppm but you need a spade to get the muck out!
Sand and externals on one tank. (120litre)
(Quite heavy planted low tech) well stocked.(technically overstocked)
1" sand (1"-2" substrate over maybe 40% of the tank).
This gets a good food mix everyday.
Loads of wood, covers a decent area of the footprint.
Cory Catfish and tetra.
These both record low nitrate. 0-3ppm I still do water changes but even if I leave it there is no real increase unless I disturb things, but it quickly recovers, both should have higher levels (according to other systems I have, nitrate should be 10-30 week to week, the first tank is often immeasurable, tanks with no substrate need water changes at least every week or more, these are 45,60 no subs & 110litres thin subs)
These tanks, the 45&60 have only one fish each, the 110 is stocked, 16 tetra 5 Cory.
The third system has an experimental remote dsb on it.
It might not work but it's too early to say, fingers crossed!
The last time I set this tank up it had a deep substrate and low nitrate, it was really well stocked and wasn't really planted (it had few plants, plec proof anubias and two giant amazon swords)
stock was 11 clown loach, 18"&15" plec, 28 peppered Cory catfish.
It's too much to say what's happening with this tank!
Loads of rocks (250kg approx)
half substrate at depth. Mixed blend, sand/gravel. Problems, hence the experiment! (750litre) last time around this tank ran sweet.
The key is creating anaerobic/anoxic conditions in parts of the substrate. Areas with less flow, under wood or rocks seems to be beneficial but I can't confirm this as I have had other "things" going on, sand/gravel etc.
Basically smaller particle substrates need less depth to create correct conditions.
Confusing? A little bit! But the pattern is quite clear!
Most of my tanks were built before I even knew what a sump really was!
I'm Using sand and internal filters on one tank.
(Medium planted low tech) normal stock. (8 fish 110 litre) all catfish. Glass cats and 2 plecs, one is growing out here.
This doesn't even conform to the accepted convention, the sand layer is 1" or less but it has a flow rig in that may be affecting things? That or the few rocks? Only two are on the floor, one is on the rig (weighs it down) with good space below.
Not sure, all I know is it always reads low! It normally only gets frozen food.
I only clean this tank to remove the ridiculous amount of plec poo! If it's left, the readings are low 0-3ppm but you need a spade to get the muck out!
Sand and externals on one tank. (120litre)
(Quite heavy planted low tech) well stocked.(technically overstocked)
1" sand (1"-2" substrate over maybe 40% of the tank).
This gets a good food mix everyday.
Loads of wood, covers a decent area of the footprint.
Cory Catfish and tetra.
These both record low nitrate. 0-3ppm I still do water changes but even if I leave it there is no real increase unless I disturb things, but it quickly recovers, both should have higher levels (according to other systems I have, nitrate should be 10-30 week to week, the first tank is often immeasurable, tanks with no substrate need water changes at least every week or more, these are 45,60 no subs & 110litres thin subs)
These tanks, the 45&60 have only one fish each, the 110 is stocked, 16 tetra 5 Cory.
The third system has an experimental remote dsb on it.
It might not work but it's too early to say, fingers crossed!
The last time I set this tank up it had a deep substrate and low nitrate, it was really well stocked and wasn't really planted (it had few plants, plec proof anubias and two giant amazon swords)
stock was 11 clown loach, 18"&15" plec, 28 peppered Cory catfish.
It's too much to say what's happening with this tank!
Loads of rocks (250kg approx)
half substrate at depth. Mixed blend, sand/gravel. Problems, hence the experiment! (750litre) last time around this tank ran sweet.
The key is creating anaerobic/anoxic conditions in parts of the substrate. Areas with less flow, under wood or rocks seems to be beneficial but I can't confirm this as I have had other "things" going on, sand/gravel etc.
Basically smaller particle substrates need less depth to create correct conditions.
Confusing? A little bit! But the pattern is quite clear!
