Restarting 30 gal planted

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Laird-and-Dad

Laird-and-Dad

Aquarium Advice Freak
Joined
Aug 2, 2014
Messages
243
Location
Santa Clarita, CA
Hey guys. I have a 30 gallon, and it had a ton of plants in it, but there was tons of algae. So I took the plants out, and I removed all of the algae from both the plants and the tank (treated the empty tank and substrate with some algaecide just in case). I'm going to put the plants back in tomorrow. I have some media from another tank that I can take, plus some of the "instant cycling" chemicals that I know don't work on their own, but might accelerate the cycling with the seeded filter media. I was thinking about getting a gbr and possibly some neon tetras. Let me know if that fish combo would work, and what else I could put in (I was thinking more of a top dweller).
Thanks!
 
Cardinals are a better choice to go with GBR due to temp considerations.
The GBR will do best at 80+ and neons and many other tropical prefer middle 70s.
May not seem like a big diff,but the higher temp is VERY important for the GBR IMO.
I would also not add either fish until you knew the tank was stable and would have no swings.
Next look for a "good" source of GBR as many feel that most issues are just bad stock.
I breed GBR(Well try?) and feel they are a pretty difficult fish to keep in the average community tank.
Good luck!(y)
HAH! You are in Ca.
check into these guys from one of the best GBR breeders !
http://www.germanbluerams.com/
 
Thank you so much for the reply, but I've had a total change of plans. I decided to go with some neon tetras, Cories, a gourami (I'm not sure which kind), and a couple ADFs. Let me know if you think that'll work (the guy at Petco seemed to think it would b fine). I got 5 Cories today, but had some problems, so they're currently in with my betta in the 5 gal. I made another post about that. So if I got 3 ADFs, then the one gourami and the 5 Cories, how many neons do you think I could get? I was hoping for a larger school, like 20 or so?

Thanks again
 
Yeah, it's pretty thin which makes it look bigger... I don't think it's a normal shape. It's 10.5 in deep, 15-17 high, and 36 across.
 
Ahhh okay. It looks really nice though. Great job. :)

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You should look into drip acclimation for the new inhabitants. They are less likely to go through the shock the corys went through.
From the pic the CO2 diffuser looks more like an airstone. That would explain the yellow drop checker (as mentioned in your other thread). Soaking it in bleach followed by thorough rinsing(s) OR an overnight soak in hydrogen peroxide (rinsing not necessary) should allow it to produce a fine mist. However, with enough CO2 even a brand new diffuser may produce coarse bubbles. What bps do you have it set at?


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Your sure you got those measurements right.. Ive had a 30g for 22 years.. Mine is 36 inches long, and 13 deep, and 16 high...


There is no way thats a 30g if its the same measurements as mine but only 10.5 inches deep.. Can you remeasure the tank please and get the exact readings... No 15-17 inches high, exact measurments..


As for algae, turn your lighting off after 6 hours... I bet your keeping it on for 10-12 hours a day, you turn it on when you wake up and off when you go to bed right ? 99% of tanks with algae issues have the lights on too long
 
candymancan said:
Your sure you got those measurements right.. Ive had a 30g for 22 years.. Mine is 36 inches long, and 13 deep, and 16 high...


There is no way thats a 30g if its the same measurements as mine but only 10.5 inches deep.. Can you remeasure the tank please and get the exact readings... No 15-17 inches high, exact measurments..


As for algae, turn your lighting off after 6 hours... I bet your keeping it on for 10-12 hours a day, you turn it on when you wake up and off when you go to bed right ? 99% of tanks with algae issues have the lights on too long
Click to expand...


Hi! I'm not home right now, so i can't re measure the tank, but I know it is very narrow compared to other 30 gals. I know for sure that it is 36" long because that's the length of my light/stand. I'm pretty sure it was 10.5" deep, but I'll remeasure when I get home. Based on those measurements though I calculated that it would have to be 18.2" tall.

I have an 8 hour photoperiod, but I've already gotten rid of all the algae. I've thought about reducing the photoperiod by an hour or two, so I might still do that though.
 
Fresh2o said:
You should look into drip acclimation for the new inhabitants. They are less likely to go through the shock the corys went through.
From the pic the CO2 diffuser looks more like an airstone. That would explain the yellow drop checker (as mentioned in your other thread). Soaking it in bleach followed by thorough rinsing(s) OR an overnight soak in hydrogen peroxide (rinsing not necessary) should allow it to produce a fine mist. However, with enough CO2 even a brand new diffuser may produce coarse bubbles. What bps do you have it set at?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
Click to expand...


I don't know what the bps is, because the bubble counter fluid is somehow gone from the bubble counter. I don't know how that happened, but I read in another thread someone having a similar problem with the Milwaukee regulator. But before, because I only had plants, I was putting in a ton of co2. So I know why the drop counter was yellow, I just messed up and forgot to check that before I put in the cories. So I've turned the co2 way down so the drop checker is consistently showing green. As I said in the previous post, I'm not home right now, but when I get home, I plan on (circumstances allowing) putting the cories back into the tank.
 
I would think the existing bubble counter should be easy to refill. You could always add another in-line bubble counter. I refill mine about every other month though it can vary.


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Fresh2o said:
I would think the existing bubble counter should be easy to refill. You could always add another in-line bubble counter. I refill mine about every other month though it can vary.


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Click to expand...


Ok I will see if a can refill, otherwise I will get an inline
 
Green algae is caused by high phosphate levels. I recommend finding a phosphate solution such as a pad. Get a phosphate test kit and make sure it reads undetectable. Don't worry, there will still be plenty of phosphate there. I have a sensitive meter and I know there will be plenty even if it reads 0. All you need is 0.02ppm phosphate :)

Also, because you said this was a planted tank make sure you are not adding too much Iron. It will cause red dots on some leaves of some plants if you are. That adds to algae problems too.
 
jarrod0987 said:
Green algae is caused by high phosphate levels. I recommend finding a phosphate solution such as a pad. Get a phosphate test kit and make sure it reads undetectable. Don't worry, there will still be plenty of phosphate there. I have a sensitive meter and I know there will be plenty even if it reads 0. All you need is 0.02ppm phosphate :)

Also, because you said this was a planted tank make sure you are not adding too much Iron. It will cause red dots on some leaves of some plants if you are. That adds to algae problems too.
Click to expand...


Zero phosphate in a planted tank? That might be fine in a non-planted tank. Phosphate is an essential nutrient for plant growth (TPT: PPS Pro Phosphate Levels ).
I had a terrible time with GSA when the phosphate levels were below 2-3 ppm. I'm using PPS Pro. I altered the mix to triple the amount of phosphate which resulted in 5 ppm and the GSA disappeared.


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What brand phosphate tests do you recommend? Does API make one? I haven't been able to find one at Petco, but I'll check petsmart tomorrow.

So what phosphate levels are good? I know I need phosphate for plants, but too much can cause algae.

Also, should I add any other ferts? I currently dose flourish on water change days (once a week) and root tabs every 3 months. Idk if that's necessary though, the plants are doing fine. But I know there are other ferts specifically for things like phosphates and iron and other stuff like that. Should I be using something like that?

Thanks!

-------------

EDIT: I just read the TPT forum link you attached, so I know the answer to my second paragraph.
 
API makes one. I've not seen it at the big box stores but some LFSs carry them. I usually go online (Amazon) for this.
Standard PPS-Pro dosing usually resulted in 1-2 ppm Phosphate in my tank (I need to check my notes on that). I believe the recommended level is 1-3 ppm.
Prior to using PPS-Pro, I used a combination of API Leaf Zone and Seachem Flourish Comprehensive (2x week). I did not test for phosphate at the time. I then switched to PPS-Pro as the fert demand increased.
Another option is EI (Estimative Index). The idea is that you flood your tank with a surplus of nutrients (and reasonable CO2) so that nutrient deficiency never occurs. I have yet to try that method. Both PPS-Pro and EI kits are quite affordable and available at GLA (Green Leaf Aquariums)


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what kind of green algae did you have ? I had green spot algae and like i said lowering the light period down to 6 hours a day cleaned it up within 2-3 weeks.. Everyone kept saying phosphates and yada for me too, but phosphates are something plants need..


Carefulll "flooding" your tank with ferts.. Ferts can have a negative effect on fish.. Ive lost fish before when dosing ferts.. Killed a betta using them, and discus react badly to full doses and so do other fish i have.. So i only use 1/4 to half doses now
 
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