Plants stretching need advice

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
2.0 is over 90 PAR @ 18" under the light, the 3.0 has a little less PAR, but a more usable spectrum. See Link to 2.0 data here: 75 gallon PAR (light) levels with Fluval F&P 2.0 - The Planted Tank Forum
I don't need 130 par [emoji15] ha ha, I know both lights are adjustable so if I start getting algae I can lower the % they run at, I read start at 30-40% and increase after a week if no algae present, this is going to be a huge learning curve as I can adjust all the leds to get different wavelengths, but k rating isn't as important as par.

That link took me to a page with nothing on it
 
I don't need 130 par [emoji15] ha ha, I know both lights are adjustable so if I start getting algae I can lower the % they run at, I read start at 30-40% and increase after a week if no algae present, this is going to be a huge learning curve as I can adjust all the leds to get different wavelengths, but k rating isn't as important as par.

That link took me to a page with nothing on it

Really? It takes my to the page....

I would run it @50% or so to start with. Where did you read PAR is more important than spectrum? Spectrum if more important than PAR.... You can have 500PAR but if you don't have the right spectrum for freshwater plants then they cannot use the light. Both spectrum (K rating) and PAR are important in the overall availability of light for plants. This is known as PUR (Photosynthetic usable radiation)
 
Really? It takes my to the page....

I would run it @50% or so to start with. Where did you read PAR is more important than spectrum? Spectrum if more important than PAR.... You can have 500PAR but if you don't have the right spectrum for freshwater plants then they cannot use the light. Both spectrum (K rating) and PAR are important in the overall availability of light for plants. This is known as PUR (Photosynthetic usable radiation)
Dennis wong said the k rating isn't important, he has a post of 3 tanks, one at 4500k one at 6500k and one at 10k and they all were beautiful, I just watched a video where the 3.0 is only 30 par at 18" or is that incorrect?
 
Dennis wong said the k rating isn't important, he has a post of 3 tanks, one at 4500k one at 6500k and one at 10k and they all were beautiful, I just watched a video where the 3.0 is only 30 par at 18" or is that incorrect?

Which video?

All of those K ratings are considered plant usable... Which explains why all the plants in his tanks are doing well.
 
Hmm.... Not sure that is accurate. I have a single 2.0 on a 90 gal (22" light - substrate) and I'm growing rotala macrandra, chain sword and L. repens just fine.... I could not do that if the light only puts out 30 PAR @ 18" let alone at 22".....
 
Hmm.... Not sure that is accurate. I have a single 2.0 on a 90 gal (22" light - substrate) and I'm growing rotala macrandra, chain sword and L. repens just fine.... I could not do that if the light only puts out 30 PAR @ 18" let alone at 22".....
So many different opinions, could be it was on a 120 gallon, it has 120° leds so maybe the par meter wasn't placed right idk
 
So many different opinions, could be it was on a 120 gallon, it has 120° leds so maybe the par meter wasn't placed right idk

It did look like the meter was at the front area near the glass and the light was in the middle ish, which will drop off the intensity quite a bit. Directly under the light should be more intense.
 
It did look like the meter was at the front area near the glass and the light was in the middle ish, which will drop off the intensity quite a bit. Directly under the light should be more intense.
The meter he used in the video is junk, someone tested it with a top end one (li-cor) and got a whole different reading that were much higher but I'm trying to find the thread.
 
My plants in my tank are stretching, I have had a couple people say it's because of my light on the tank, one person is saying add a 48" t8 to the tank along side the Elive led(48"with 30 pods) , I don't have ac in my house so in the summer it gets pretty hot in here which is why I went with this led (big mistake) as it's more blue light not 6500, I have a few options, I can change the pods in my light to more red (would cost a lot), get a whole different light (waste of the 200 + dollars I have in this light) , or add a light to the tank to go with the Elive, here are a few pics of what I mean by stretching and not clustering and bushing out (cryptocoryne Wendtii reds are 6-9" tall)
Also I lost the bottom leaves on only the Ludwigia and I have to trim them every week)

Any help would be appreciated

Stretching plants https://imgur.com/a/SuMAF3D
I enlarged the pics and looked at the stemmed plants and the spaces between the leaves moreso than those from rhizomes. The spacing seemed normal. The overall coloration of your plants also did not seem to be washed out, and it is normal for older leaves on the outside of all plants to eventually die off as newer and even larger leaves from the centers of plants in order to better feed rhizomes ans roots, especially in plants that reproduce by offshoots rather than seeds. Inside each plant, aquatic or terrestrial, contains a membrane covered almost inner cell called a vacuole that takes up about 30 percent of a cells volume. It's function is to store water an nutrients, and even certain other items that the plant may or may not even use. If certain chemicals get inside the vacuoles, osmotic pressure in the vacuoles can cause water or other materials to enter the the vacuoles and cause them to absorb more items than they can excrete and stretch the vacuoles enlarging the to become up to 90 percent...or individual cellular elongation regardless of the amount of light is present. Of course the over production of chlorophyll because of insufficient lighting can cause elongation of the cell too, but then the color would be overlightened towards a yellow color. It's like finding yollow grass after picking up a piece of plywood or other items and finding living but yellow grass. Your entire problem of some plant's elongation may not be light at all. It may be from untestable chemicals that some of the plants causing cellular elongation. There may otherwise be no problems with your plants.
 
I enlarged the pics and looked at the stemmed plants and the spaces between the leaves moreso than those from rhizomes. The spacing seemed normal. The overall coloration of your plants also did not seem to be washed out, and it is normal for older leaves on the outside of all plants to eventually die off as newer and even larger leaves from the centers of plants in order to better feed rhizomes ans roots, especially in plants that reproduce by offshoots rather than seeds. Inside each plant, aquatic or terrestrial, contains a membrane covered almost inner cell called a vacuole that takes up about 30 percent of a cells volume. It's function is to store water an nutrients, and even certain other items that the plant may or may not even use. If certain chemicals get inside the vacuoles, osmotic pressure in the vacuoles can cause water or other materials to enter the the vacuoles and cause them to absorb more items than they can excrete and stretch the vacuoles enlarging the to become up to 90 percent...or individual cellular elongation regardless of the amount of light is present. Of course the over production of chlorophyll because of insufficient lighting can cause elongation of the cell too, but then the color would be overlightened towards a yellow color. It's like finding yollow grass after picking up a piece of plywood or other items and finding living but yellow grass. Your entire problem of some plant's elongation may not be light at all. It may be from untestable chemicals that some of the plants causing cellular elongation. There may otherwise be no problems with your plants.
I have other issues as well though like my Ludwigia repens lose all their lower leaves, in running max and this is just an estimate as I don't have a meter 15 par
 
Lol dennis wong is saying to throw on a twinstar, I'm not rich lol, or the satellite but that's also $250.00 dollars yikes


Current USA 18"-24" Satellite Plus PRO LED Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QVGH7CG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EQ35Ab21H6CR9

As for the Current USA, they are good quality build wise, I have 4 (one SW version & one was a strip only no fixture) but I still don't quite know how to utilize all the programming with just the remote let alone the ramp pro timer!

Check for refurb /refurbished models on ebay. I have bought 2 and they have and continue to work for years now.

The K rating also needs to be in the color spectrum for plant growing.

Just for fun look up some charts for how the human eye sees pleasing colors in the color spectrum and how plants use the color spectrum for growth, they are kind of opposite!!! One lengthy article I found was really good and had lots of these charts. If I happen to find it I will post it. Used to have the link saved on my previous laptop and it broke.
 
As for the Current USA, they are good quality build wise, I have 4 (one SW version & one was a strip only no fixture) but I still don't quite know how to utilize all the programming with just the remote let alone the ramp pro timer!

Check for refurb /refurbished models on ebay. I have bought 2 and they have and continue to work for years now.

The K rating also needs to be in the color spectrum for plant growing.

Just for fun look up some charts for how the human eye sees pleasing colors in the color spectrum and how plants use the color spectrum for growth, they are kind of opposite!!! One lengthy article I found was really good and had lots of these charts. If I happen to find it I will post it. Used to have the link saved on my previous laptop and it broke.
I was going to go with the current, but decided to get the new fluval 3.0, it's fully programmable as well and it's done over Bluetooth
 
You should get enough light with that.

Congrats on your decision, I have watching to see how people like these lights, I have so much Fluval stuff just wondering and make sure to post a link if you do a before and after thread or review or something similar!
 
You should get enough light with that.

Congrats on your decision, I have watching to see how people like these lights, I have so much Fluval stuff just wondering and make sure to post a link if you do a before and after thread or review or something similar!
I'm gonna make a video on it, with the difference on how the tank looks with my old light compared to the fluval, I will definitely do a review video on it and link it on here, now I just have to figure out what colors I need for the tank lol, it has presets already but you can customize the presets further, going to be a learning curve lol, I have all fluval stuff, aquaclears, q2 air pump and now my light, my heater is an aqueon pro though so I'm happy with that.

Ty, I didn't really want to spend money on a light But I have to if I want my plants to stop shedding leaves, stretching, and grow more in the middle.
 
It did look like the meter was at the front area near the glass and the light was in the middle ish, which will drop off the intensity quite a bit. Directly under the light should be more intense.
Ty again for the recommendation, ordered it tonight
 
That don't look too bad, do you get good penetration with it?
Yup! My plants love it. It gets to the bottom, lights up the tank very nice. I'm pleased with it. You can set timer on 24/7, have just red, or green, or blue, or just white. And you can dim or brighten any color.
 
I would start with everything on "full" but dim the entire light down a bit to start, 18" it should be able to run full out when your plant mass increases. It's set at 6500K which should look warmer than your light now. My 2.0 is 7500K and even it seem really yellowy. Good choice, I wish I lived in the states, the 2.0 is nearly $400 here and the 3.0 wont be available till "late 2018"... probably with a premium cost to it.
 
Back
Top Bottom