Recent content by HoopsGuru

If the new water is not close to the temperature of the existing tank water then this could be quite stressful when it is added to the tank. 1) anything in the path of the sudden rush of cooler water may be stressed. 2) if the tank temperature itself is reduced quickly it may stress everybody...

I don't have enough to make a worthwhile trip down to That Pet Place to turn them in for store credit so I wanted to make them available for local pickup here. I am outside of Harrisburg, PA. I have three large red Xenia frags mounted on liverock. I also have about 5 green E. quadricolor...

In my experience they are much more active at night. If they are resting day and night then my guess would actually be that they are dying. I have had them eat at night from a veggie clip (nori) but often they scavenge well all sorts of things in the tank. There are tales of them spawning in...

I run a 96w powerquad bulb on my 10g softie nano and all corals seem to enjoy it fine. Hard to say which is better, it may depend on your desires for the tank. I get excellent growth and have to frag often, but that is mainly what I use the tank for.

Keep a filter sponge or other media in your sump....or in a filter you have running on your tank. When the QT tank is needed, remove the media and add it to your QT filter.....instant bacteria to help keep optimal conditions especially in a 10g where ammonia can build quickly. When finished...

My sides and back blocked out with pink under 175w metal halides. Another key is spores...grinding up some coralline algae and pouring it back into the tank will help. This is why products like Garf Grunge are effective because it is ground up rock and shells that are covered in coralline.

Not unless it had debris of some sort on it that could rot, rock itself does not have any bioload.

Image courtesy: http://www.flippersandfins.net/Images/TurkeyBasterA.JPG

Bristleworms do not stay in a specific "burrow", so IMO it is unlikely that the shells are anything but a coincidence with the bristleworm sightings. In general, bristleworms lack any appendage to catch a moving invert, from my experience they can only grasp after some effort with their mouths...

It appears to depend at least partly on your water conditions and seasonal changes. Every fall a 30g tank I have with strombus snails from www.ipsf.com lay a large amount of egg sacs on the glass. Other than there there are a few constant egg sacs somewhere. They have been self sustaining for...

I would wait until several months after the tank change and then consider a captive raised E. quadricolor clone.

I do the same things with the turkey baster, and do a water change at the same time. You should be doing regular ones anyway, so I blow up the detritus right before hand which makes it easy to siphon without having to dive into the tank.

It may give DI water, but does it come with a TDS meter or anything similar to determine what the quality of the water is as you use it? I read the technical info at AP that suggests the resin turns color when exhausted but am not sure if the crap contents begins to build before the color...

Look at an actinic light and imagine it with brilliant shimmer lines like other MH bulbs....sorry, no actual pictures.