Recent content by JProx

alittle off-topic, but would you happen to have an extra overflow box you would be willing to part with? i am in cleveland, ohio.

forgot to include this link earlier.. it seems an explanation over the principles isn't need anymore. http://www.lsdiodes.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=35e6e589e611b60492cb7650af41cac1 .45cents an led, thats where i load up on mine. there's usually some confusion over the...

i don't have time to get into details, i will later today, but yes having resistors is a very good idea, for various reasons. 1. we live in a world of electronical theory, not law. so having any 'protection' in a circuit is a good idea, and resistors tend to be the cheapest form of it. it...

mike, i can completely understand i am an electronical engineer myself, and hopefully a Computer science degree here shortly. but i am in the same boat as you - love diy and an engineer i love seeing these monster tanks, and all the structural work that put into them, however the one on...

Mike congrats on finding that shark tank guy, i knew someone had posted it on AA but couldn't recall where it came from originally. i got a chuckle out of the concrete conclusion myself, i just swore he used cinderblock for the bulk of the stand.. must have been a different tank. now if you...

standard demensions for a 55 are 48" length, 13inches wide and 18inches tall. i have built a few stands for 55's in the past, and 12.5 does not sound right to me, make sure you're measuring at the widest points, take into account the plastic frame.

someone had posted a walkthrough on how he built a 1200gallon shark tank into his basement on this forum, it was probably over a year ago now, but i am sure if you look you can find it. he used cinderblocks for 3/4 of the tank (using them to build the walls) then just dropped in a plate glass...

i thought i couldn't be the only one who was having problems making anything out in the picture, so i pulled out photoshop and did a little retouching. i really like the border and the base color of the wall.. any idea what color the stand will be?

people have made backdrops, tunnels, rock walls/formations. http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=31078 backdrops http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=56160 - rock formations can't find the thread i want for the DIY caves, the author took a Y pipe (of pvc) cut it in half...

i have had the exact same problem before, i ended up ordering a replacement from my LFS for about 18bucks and using silicon to secure the new one back in place, it took about an hour to remove the old, clean the edges and replace. putting in a glass brace is a good alternative if you don't want...

yeah you can do it, and your idea sounds fine to me. you could use one switch if you wanted to do that (instead of 2) and it wouldn't be any more complex of a wiring job. only thing i would suggest is make sure you place the ballasts away from each other, so it reduces your chances of...

it does a little more (not much) than just offer a better look to the tank, they do offer a small amount of protection, when placing a tank against a hardsurface it acts like a little buffer, but being a little cautious with the tank is usually the best protection. the top frame actually does...

the arrow is pointing to the black bottom bracing. its also called a frame.

the little plastic piece that seperates the glass of the tank, from the stand. every commerically made tank has 2, one on the top and bottom. most of the time they are 'oak grained' or black plastic.

i have never seen a steel stand not support the center of the tank. thats where the most amount of downward force is being applied, the furthest point away from any supporting beams. Any commerically made stand (wood, steel, etc) will not have a plank for the tank to sit on, instead just a lip...