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Recent content by jrc0528
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What size tanks are you moving? 10 or 20 gal you may be able to move with the substrate in, but any larger will be VERY heavy and risk breaking the bottoms out. I have moved my 75 gal a couple times (relocating and replacing a damaged stand).
Get a few 5 gal buckets with lids, one for the...
The only baffles under any strain are those with different water levels on each side. On that line of thinking, potentially the first and last of the bubble trap but not the middle.
I guess an easier way of thinking about it is this; any glass glued to the bottom needs a bit more strength...
Perhaps score the broken piece top to bottom in two places separating it into thirds. Gently break it on the score lines and remove the middle section. This should make it easire to remove as the smaller pieces aren't glued in all the way around.
If both ends of the hose/pipe are submerged, the calculation is water level to water level. For canisters this means that the head loss is actually ZERO since both the suction & return lines are submerged and the canister itself is sealed.
The pump end is always calculated from the water...
I've had air get trapped in tank-to-sump lines before, drastically reducing the flow. Typically this is cleared by ensuring the sump ends of the lines are above the waterline.
Personally, I'd replace 90s with two 45s close, less restriction this way. Also, try to keep all piping sloped down...
In my opinion, yes. I've had micro-bubbles build up and form an air bubble in my U-pipes before. If you have the flow fast enough this won't happen as the flow will carry the forming air bubbles right on through.
The lack of color makes me think they are 'feeder' guppies, bred solely to be food for larger predatory fish. On that note, anyone who needs feeder guppies would gladly take the young ones!
The only issue I've had with some drop checkers is that they instruct one to use the aquarium water and add a drop(s) of the indicator solution. I did a lot of research back when I started CO2 injection and the bottom line is this; the solution inside the checker is the sole factor in how...
Look up digital temperature controllers on fee-bay. You can get Chinese made units for $15-20 in either C or F (but they are different units). The delay (cut-in) is adjustable 1-30F on the F units, meaning in heat mode set at 78 it will kick on when the temp hits 77. it can switch 10A at...
I use a 27 Gal plastic tote to pre-treat the new water and stabilize the temps & aerate it prior to adding it to the tank. This is also how I add the salt for the somewhat brackish water I use for the guppy tank. Any plant ferts go into the pre-treat as well.
The magnet should try to center itself into the motor when running; whether it moves up or down just depends on it's position with the motor off. Sounds like the quality issue is with the height they glue the magnet at.
I have an AC110 and an AC70, both dead silent. They make a heck of a racket until they fully prime after a water change, but then remain silent.
IIRC, the removable black top plate in them holds the top end of the motor shaft; perhaps it isn't lined up properly allowing the impeller to rub...
I second the vote for the AC110.. I have one on my 75G and love it. It runs along with a 5 stage canister filter. I just run the stock sponge in it and a large bag of bio-media.
Note: Should you forget to clean the sponge, it will remind you by pumping it up and raising the lid right off...
If you have a fully cycled sponge in another tank you could just squeeze it into the beta's tank. The squeezings will nearly instantly cycle the new filter.