Recent content by Lollipops

Thanks! Good to know! Long story short, I got the rubber lip pleco after I came back from a vacation and found algae RAMPANT in the goldfish tank. He's in quarantine right now. but I'm having second thoughts, because I'd need to have the temp be cool for the rubber lip, but warm for the goldie...

Thanks! Good to know! Long story short, I got the rubber lip pleco after I came back from a vacation and found algae RAMPANT in the goldfish tank. He's in quarantine right now. but I'm having second thoughts, because I'd need to have the temp be cool for the rubber lip, but warm for the goldie...

My 55 gallons has two AquaClear 110's on it. Do you think this provides enough oxygen for the solo, 6-7 inch goldfish in there? I've been considering adding a bubbler (even though I think they're terribly ugly) because I want to increase my goldie's water temperature to 82F so that he can have...

Really hoping its not columnaris :( but it definitely looks worse than ich. Good luck with the LFS tomorrow :( Bring them lots of quality pictures

The bacteria that affect humans are adapted to our 98.7F body temp. That's why in the case of bacteria that are bad for humans, its generally the "hotter, the better," but that's because our human bodies tend to be the hottest living thing around. (I know birds get a bit hotter, but that's...

Poor fish looks ravaged :( spots in earlier posts look like ich. You might not have fin rot at all. It would make sense to have just columnaris, rather than ich AND fin rot. But who knows when you introduce new fish? :(

If you research Flavobacterium columnare, you'll find that it is the cause of a certain fish illness, but generally not the common fin rot we're seeing here. If you think it's columnaris disease, that's an entirely different matter. The person who created that post did a bad job lumping it...

I've read that article, but I would recommend going to a scholarly journal. I'd trust it more than some random person on MyAquariumClub, writing that article: http://www.myaquariumclub.com/does-raising-the-heat-help-with-fin-rot-3876.html which states: "Fungus and bacteria grows better in...

Again, if you are using Prime, you can let your ammonia and nitrite go, and your temp will be up, both of which will help the bacteria culture grow. Unfortunately, when you get your medication, you must remove any carbon that will bind with it. Sadly, that will take out a portion of your filter...

Let me be more thorough in my posting: If you use 5x dose of Prime, you will not need to be concerned for the ammonia/nitrite problem, and can set it aside until after treating the illness. This will allow your bacterial culture to grow too. Hooray. Areomonas hydrophila is the bacterial...

The fin rot SHOULD clear up before the ich does. Fin rot treatment time is usually 7 days. Take the carbon out before you put medication in.

When I say leave the heater on, I don't mean make the water warm; just keep it from being cold. I use my heater to keep my goldfish tank at 72 degrees and out of the 60's.

This is a 14 day treatment, so plan accordingly. Anything that claims to work on ich faster is probably only covering the ich up.

Nope! ParaGaurd is BOMB DIGGITY and filter (i.e. beneficial bacteria) safe! I would recommend getting a bacteria starter, but I lot of people say that they're B.S. I used MarineLand's bacteria that comes in a pouch because it was all they had at my LFS. Suddenly I was FINALLY cycled - so I...

Other reason to leave the heater on: once you have the medication in, you want to help the ich through its life cycle, that way it gets to its sensitive and treatable stage! If you fish are currently covered in the ich, the warmth of the water can help the ich behind the cysts to mature and pop...