Recent content by mojoreef

Steves tank is a sweet one for sure. Lots of money and lots of tender loving care went into that tank. I have seen it in person a few times and the pictures dont do it any justice. 9 feet front to back, man the depth perception is unreal Mike

Cycling is just the process of building up bacterial populations, just do the shrimp method and allow the process to happen naturally Mike

As per ammonia when frst mixed Coralife is about the same as kent and IO. Most ASW mixes will have either notrogen or Phosphate in them when first mixed, Coralife has high levels of both. It is also low in carbon and has a very different carbonate system (tough to get accurate measurements on)...

T5's should work fine for what you want to keep.The problem they have is with intencity, as in they dont drive the light very deep into the tank. If your goig to keep some easy sps like montiporas and such just try to keep them a little higher in the water column. Mike

Josh different algaes die in different ways. Most will turn a white transparent color and then fade away. Normally thier is not a residue, it sounds more like the algae died, went away and now you have a bald spot with some detritus on it. Blow it off and the algae shouldnt come back to it. Mike

If your using water from drain standpipes its really not a close loop. You will end up getting bubbles from the drain line and they will get pushed through the pump. MIke

Yea I have had problems simular to this with electronic units, usually its Pc's or Vho's though. I have recommended this unit many times and it has seemed to help folks get past the problem http://www.smarthome.com/4835.html hope it helps MIke

Hi Sevise you will like the aquacontroller, I have had one for years and dont know where I would be with out it. The probe should be calibrated from the factory, if not some calibration fluid will take care of it in short order. I would take a test of your alk to see what your buffering system...

Just over 12 gallons a day, I drip 10 gallons a day of kalk the balance is made up from ro/di. Mike

What you are seeing is percipatate. the kalk is being drawn out by co2 in the air. Aggitating the surface will only cause more of the kalk to percipatate. A little trick to help you would be to grab some bubble wrap and place it on the surface of the kalk, this will not allow co2 to come into...

40 watts should be good enough to kill what you are looking t kill, I would get the two that way you will have longer contact time to do the damage. As mentioned above slow flow is critical. Mike

it didnt happen to me, it stayed with the pink zoo colony. but that is just what happened to me. mike

Revhtree I have seen this before. It is a kind of fungus that comes in on certian zoo's usually pink ones. I dont think this particular problem is caused by light acclimation, but rather something brought in with them. On the colony that I had that was affected like this I just kept blowing them...

apology accepted and I have done the same. Again hobbists use one of the standard instruments to figure out salinity/sg. Refractometer/hydrometers are temperature compensated, so when someone tells me that they have a salinity of X I assume they used an instrument to measure it. The reason...

when people take a salinity measure or a sg measure they use a tool that is most likely temperature compensated. its a mute point. Bang sure you can do that by raising and/or lowering temp, but that was not the jist of what I was laying out. I someone comes out here and say he has a salinity of...